Journey home: Mumbles and Cardiff Bay 9th October 2016

On Sunday the 9th October 2016, Dan and I left the Piton Cross campsite after a great WFP meet weekend to head home. ON our way back we stopped off in Mumbles and Cardiff Bay.

We first stopped in Mumbles. Mumbles marks the beginning of the Gower Peninsula’s coastline.

 There’s a Lighthouse built in 1794, and a Victorian Pier. Oystermouth Castle is also well worth a visit, sitting on a hilltop with fabulous views overlooking the sea.

Mumbles (Mwmbwls in Welsh) is a small fishing village situated at the Western end of Swansea Bay, at the entrance to The Gower Peninsula. Currently well known as the birthplace of Catherine Zeta Jones and Ian Hislop, Mumbles was previously a frequent haunt of Dylan Thomas and his friends.

We parked up paid a couple of quid to park and walked up to Mumbles pier that was closed,probably as it was still very early in the morning.

The Mumbles Pier is an 835 feet (255 m) long Victorian pier built in 1898.The pier opened on 10 May 1898 at a cost of £10,000. It was the western terminus for the world's first passenger carrying railway, the Swansea and Mumbles Railway; and a major terminal for the White Funnel paddle steamers of P and A Campbell, unloading tourists from routes along the River Severn and Bristol Channel.

In the summer of 1899, Will C. Pepper, father of the musicians Harry S. Pepper and Dick Pepper, founded a long-running concert party on the Pier called the White Coons.

Today, the pier is used only for fishing and tourism, offering panoramic views of Swansea Bay with the Mumbles Lighthouse on one side and Port Talbot on the other. Halfway along the Pier on the Bay side is a Royal National Lifeboat Institution lifeboat station. Still housing the historical records of the local Mumbles lifeboat, the House also currently handles the 'Tyne' Class boat. The Pier complex is owned and operated by the Bollom family.

To the right of the pier is Mumbles Lighthouse. Mumbles Lighthouse, completed in 1794, it was designed to alert passing ships of the dangerous Mixon Sands and Cherry Stone Rock - two massive undersea sand banks that have caused the destruction of countless ships and taken the lives of hundreds of seamen over the centuries.

The structure, which sits on the outer of two islands off Mumbles Head, is clearly visible from any point along the five mile sweep of Swansea Bay. Along with the nearby lifeboat station, it is the most photographed landmark in the village.

 In 1860, the oil powered light was upgraded to a dioptric light and the fort that surrounds the tower was built by the War Department.In 1905, an occulting mechanism, where the light was made to flash, was fitted. This was partially automated in 1934.By 1977, the cast iron lantern had deteriorated beyond repair and was removed. A different lantern was added in 1987.In 1995, the main light was replaced and an array of solar panels and emergency monitoring equipment were added.

We walked back to the car passing the numerous boats and yachts to move on, as nothing was open and we needed to press on to see Cardiff before continuing home.

After a bit more driving and a longer than I thought diversion off the M4 we park up in Cardiff Bay.

Cardiff Bay is a diverse waterfront built around a 200 hectare freshwater lake known as ‘the Bay’. Find a great mix of Cardiff attractions, entertainment and events, coupled with vibrant bars and shops that create a truly unique atmosphere worthy of any capital city!

We passed The Millennium Centre and had a quick look inside on our return to the car.

Wales Millennium Centre (Welsh: Canolfan Mileniwm Cymru) is an arts centre located in the Cardiff Bay area of Cardiff, Wales.

The centre has hosted performances of Opera, Ballet, Dance, Theatre, comedy and Musicals.

The Centre comprises one large theatre and two smaller halls with shops, bars and restaurants. It houses the national orchestra and opera, dance, theatre and literature companies, a total of eight arts organisations in residence. It is also home to the Cardiff Bay Visitor Centre.

Inscribed on the front of the dome, above the main entrance, are two poetic lines, written by Welsh poet Gwyneth Lewis in the Welsh and English languages. The lettering is formed by windows in the upstairs bar areas and is internally illuminated at night.

The idea of this monumental inscription comes from Roman classical architecture. The Romans brought Christianity to these islands, along with the custom of engraving stone. The form of the Celtic cross embodies the cross-fertilisation of indigenous and Roman cultures, from which the Welsh nation first emerged. The monumental inscription is a familiar feature of Roman architecture. The inscription over the entrance of the Wales Millennium Centre is a revival of this classical tradition, and also a recognition of the formative influence of Roman culture upon our nation. We’re lucky to have two languages; one that we share with half the world and one which belongs just to us. Words in songs, stories and poems have helped to make Wales the proud country that it is. —architect Jonathan Adams.

We the pass The Pierhead Building another iconic building.

The Pierhead Building (Welsh: Adeilad y Pierhead) is a Grade I listed building of the National Assembly for Wales in Cardiff Bay. It stands as one of the city of Cardiff's most familiar landmarks and was built in 1897 as the headquarters for the Bute Dock Company.

The clock on the building is unofficially known as the "Baby Big Ben" or the "Big Ben of Wales", and also serves as a Welsh history museum.The Pierhead Building is part of the estate of the National Assembly for Wales, which also includes the Senedd and Ty Hywel.

Incorporating a French-Gothic Renaissance theme, the Pierhead boasts details such as hexagonal chimneys, carved friezes, gargoyles, and a highly ornamental and distinctive clock tower. Its exterior is finished in glazed terracotta blocks supplied at the end of the nineteenth century by JC Edwards & Co of Acrefair near Ruabon in Wrexham – once described as one of the most successful producers of terracotta in the world.These features, along with the Pierhead's role in the development of the docks, Cardiff and industrial Wales earned it the status of a Grade One listed building.

We stopped in the Wethersppons pub here (The Mount Stuart) for breakfast and a cuppa before a fleeting look at the bay.

This former dock building was erected in the 1880s and served as the long-time offices of the Mount Stuart Dry Docks Company Ltd. The offices were built alongside Graving Dock No.1, part of Cardiff Docks, built by the Marquesses of Bute. The now-demolished Mount Stuart public house stood just outside the dock gates. Both the dock offices and the pub were named after the Marquesses’ ancestral home on the Isle of Bute.

Now back at the car we press on for the journey home another cracker of a weekend. Cardiff deserves a weekend spent here. I'll be back as Arnie would say!

Pitton Cross to Rhossilli,Gower Penisula 8th October 2016

After The days walk from Rhossilli to Broughton Bay circular, we returned to the Pitton Cross Campsite. After some dinner we were going to meet the WFP group back in the Helvetia Pub. But we decided to walk to Rhossilli from Pitton Cross and get a lift back from Paul.

There are footpaths that lead from the campsite that lead to the coastline through open farmland and pathways.

We reach Mewslade, The walk to the beach leads down a wooded path and then through the valley which is owned by the National Trust.

We walk through a valley with rocky cliffs to boths sides,that remind me of Western films where the Indians ambush the cowboys or maybe even where Wile.E.Coyote lays a trap for the Roadrunner.

We reach Mewslade Bay, a pretty bay. At high tide there is no beach here, nut right now the tide is out revealing a lovely sandy beach. Care is needed here when swimming as there is a strong undercurrent.

We walk back a short way an take a path up the cliff to reach the Coast Path to take us to Rhossilli.

We walk onto Fall Bay, we stay up high on the path and don't head down. We need to reach Rhossilli before dark and the light was fading fast.

Fall Bay

Fall Bay

A Lime Kiln

Located on the north side of the coastal path is a ruined lime kiln shown as ‘Old Limekiln’ on the first edition OS map (1879).

Essentially, the kiln has collapsed leaving a mound with a central hollow where the charging hole was located, flanked on either side by two entranced draw-holes.

No after more walking we reach Wormshead and the Coastguard cottage as the sun sets. Spectacular views of Wormshead were to be seen.

We walk back up the path to the pub and join the WFP gang for more beer, lovely.

About 3 miles in all.

WFP : Rhossilli,Llangennith to Broughton Borrows,Bury Holms Circular 8th October 2016

We woke up after a good nights sleep at Pitton Cross Campsite and after some breakfast we headed back down to Rhossilli and parked back up paid the £4 fee and had another cuppa in The Bay Bistro made use of their WiFi to upload yesterdays pictures whilst waiting for the 10am start of The Walking For Pleasure walk to Llangennith,Burry Holms and back.

Before lond it was 10am and we met the group from WFP, Max,Julie,Heather,Steve,Clive,Paul,Gavin and his daughter Anya,Muireann and Katarzyna.

We headed off through Rhossilli and past its church St Marys. The original church at Rhossili spent its early days at the foot of Rhossili Downs known today as the Warren. The church here, possibly dedicated to a St. Sulien or St. Sili, with a history stretching back to the 6th Century, was further built upon by the Anglo-Norman settlers some time before 1150. There is even exists some documentation in early charters that Rhossili was the site of an even earlier monastic settlement dedicated to St. Cynwal. However, it is claimed that during the 13th century, huge storms erupted which lashed the west coast of Gower with forceful winds and rain, engulfing both village and church with a mountain of sand.

During the early 13th century, the new church and village was built upon the clifftop to avoid the never-ending threat of wind, sea and sand.

 From the early part of the 13th century church, dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin, became the property of the medieval Order of the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, sanctioned by William de Turberville. This gift is documented in a confirmatory charter of Bishop Anselm of 1230. Their order was dissolved during the reign of Henry VIII, and rectors were appointed on behalf of the Crown by the Lord Chancellor, until 1920 when the Church in Wales was disestablished.

We take the footpath to the Coast Path and across the Rhossilli Down Commons. 

The commons also boast prehistoric stone circles, cairns and burial chambers. Rhossili Down and Cliffs are among the larger of the commons on Gower covering 354 hectares in total. Rhossili Down is predominately composed of dry acid dwarf shrub heath (Biodiversity Action Plan priority habitat) and bracken dominated areas. The site supports a good biodiversity of flora and fauna including a number of protected species: Brown Hare,Chough,Skylark, and others.

We head up the steep hill to the top.

If you look back towards Rhossili village you will see the Medieval strip field system of The Vile on the headland.

Herd of sheep off in single file.

Up upon the top, the views are just breath taking in a 360 degrees jaw dropping beauty.

The beacon marks the highest point on Gower at 633ft and is also the site of a Bronze-Age cairn built around four thousand years ago. As you continue along the ridge path you will pass the remains of Stone Age burial chambers called Sweynes Howes.

Just about now Max points out a pair of Choughs, to say I'd seen them I was well chuffed to say the least. A first for me seeing these rare birds.

The vegetation around you as you walk on the ridge path is predominantly heathland and is a dazzling display of pinks and purples in late summer. Further down the slope to the right there are areas of wet heath.

We reach the remains of a World War II Radar Station situated on top of the Down towards its north western end. From this position the radar station was able to send early warning to Swansea of approaching enemy planes. On the cliffs to the right of the path that leads to Worm's Head are distinct grass covered mounds and ditches which are the remains of Old Castle Camp, an Iron Age Fort.

Here we stop for a break and something to eat and drink whilst soaking in the views.

Looking down upon Hillend Caravan and Camping Park.

We head down to Hillend, this path here was very steep. Glad to be going down rather than up !

At the bottom of the hill we made our way along a busy Moor Lane that leads to the campsite towards Llangennith.

The village of Llangennith or "Llangenydd" (meaning Church of St Cenydd) nestles between the slopes of three hills; Llanmadoc Hill, Rhossili Down and Hardingsdown. The latter is the smallest of the red sandstone hills and has a number of iron age earthworks on its slopes.

Llangennith is a popular destination with families and surfers (it even has its own surf shop). Even before surfing became popular, the sea was the focal point of the village, given its setting at the foot of the hills.

The church in Llangennith is the largest in Gower and is believed to have evolved from St Cenydd's Priory, founded in the 6th century and hence giving its name to the village.

We take a footpath across some farmland towards Broughton farm Caravan Park.

Here we reach Broughton Bay, another jaw dropping beauty of a bay. In past ages, the bay used to be regularly visited by sailing vessels up to 700 tons. These were able to anchor here up until around the 1850s, after which the sand of the Burry Estuary silted the bay too heavily to afford their traffic.

The sands here can shift quite drastically with the tides, especially after a gale. At low tides, after the sands have shifted, many a rewarding find have been discovered by walking this stretch of beach.  Not so long ago, the handle of a 17th Century sword was discovered, protruding from the sands like King Arthur's Excalibur itself. The handle had become separated from the blade itself but, remarkably, this also was found, and by the same man, a few days later whilst patrolling the same stretch of bay. Historians and archeologists all insist that this area still has a lot of treasure to disclose to the lucky beachcomber.

At the northern end of the bay, set high amongst the cliff, lays the twin entrance of Spritsail Tor Cave. Discovered in 1839 whilst quarrying the rock here, remains of Ice-Age animals and two fragments of worked bone suggest that the cave was occupied by Palaeolithic man. Further animal and human bones were also uncovered here, along with fragments of pottery, detailing how the cave later came to be used as for domestic and funerary use during the Roman occupation of the area.

To the south-east of the bay, at Foxhole Point, a deep but shallow sea cave with a clean, sandy floor can be found.

The southern end of the bay gives access, at low tide only to a series of small coves, the largest of which is Blue Pool Bay.

We continue along the Coast path looking for The Blue Pool where we were to have a swim, sadly we couldn't find it.

A kestrel flys above the bay.

We now walk downhill to Burry Holms (Ynys Lanwol) where we decided as we couldn't find the Blue Pool we would have a swim.

9,000 years ago Burry Holms was up to 12 miles (19 km) away from the sea and inhabited by nomadic Mesolithic hunters. Flint tools provided the first evidence of their existence in 1919, since when charcoal, charred hazelnut shells, and tools made out of wood and bone have also been found. A 1998 excavation by the National Museums and Galleries of Wales found that Burry Holms was used as a Mesolithic seasonal camp. Iron Age people subsequently built a 5-acre (20,000 m²) hillfort and ditch on the island, while in Medieval times it was home to a monastery.

During spring and summer Burry Holms is covered by flowers such as thrift and sea campion. The island is also popular among collectors of shells.

It reaches a height of 30 metres (98 ft).

Max and I were first in the water followed by Anya. A little later Gavin joined us having borrowed a pair of very fetching tight and bright pink shorts from Muireann that bought about a few laughs !

Muireann joined us for a short time. The tide was on its way out and the pull of the tide was amazing, I was swimming against it but going nowhere, thankfully you could stand in the shallow waters. The area was littered with underwater rocks that were sharp, but what an amazing swim and surprisingly warm for October.

Gavin in his fetching shorts

I got dressed after about a 30 minute swim and walked around to join the rest for something to eat before the walk back to Rhossilli along the beach.

The walk along the beach in Rhossilli Bay was exhilarating and so peaceful , as I watched the surfers,kayakers and paddleboaders peddle their trade.

National trust Building

I reached the walkway back up to the car park and hotel. Total knackered I walk up the steep path before having another pint and debrief in The Wormshead Hotel.  A Gorgeous walk of 8 miles with fantastic views and company. thank you everyone!