My Adventures 3: Mevagissey to Caerhays Castle Walk 26th October 2017

On Thursday the 26th October 2017 I set off from my holiday home Dreckly Cottage in Mevagissey at 8am.

The first recorded mention of Mevagissey dates from 1313 (when it was known as Porthhilly), although there is evidence of settlement dating back to the Bronze Age.

The old name of the parish was Lamorrick, and it was part of the episcopal manor of Tregear. The church was dedicated to Saints Meva and Ida in 1259 by Bishop Bronescombe and in 1329 Sir Otho Bodrugan appropriated it to Glasney College. The Norman church was cruciform and some Norman work remains but the church was more or less rebuilt in the 15th century. In the Commonwealth period the tower became ruinous and the bells were taken down and sold to a Quaker of St Austell.According to tradition there has been a church on the same site since about 500 AD. Meva may well be the same as St Mewan and Issey is also the patron saint of St Issey.

Mevagissey is home to three Cornish holy wells. The Brass Well and Lady's Wellare both situated in the manor of Treleaven, the other holy well is within the gardens of Mevagissey House, the old vicarage.

Towards the end of the 17th century, Porthhilly merged with the hamlet of Lamoreck (or Lamorrick) to make the new village. It was named "Meva hag Ysi", after two Irish saints, St Meva and St Issey (or Ida, hag is the Cornish word for "and"). The modern Cornish name is Lannvorek, after the old parish name. At this time the main sources of income for the village were pilchard fishing and smuggling and the village had at least ten inns, of which the Fountain and the Ship still remain.

Andrew Pears, the founder of Pears' Soap was born in the village in 1768 and set up a barber's shop here until he moved to London in 1789.

The harbour is built on the site of a medieval quay. The first Act of Parliament allowing the new port to be built was passed in 1774. The inner harbour, consisting of the current East and West Quays, was constructed from this time. An outer harbour was added in 1888, but seriously damaged in a blizzard in 1891. The outer walls were rebuilt by 1897. The harbour was given charitable trust status in 1988.

The Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) stationed a lifeboat at Portmellon in 1869, but in 1888 moved it to Mevagissey. It was kept afloat in the harbour for a few years but in 1896 was moved into a purpose-built concrete boat house. The following year a new boat, the James Chisholm (RNLI number 403), was installed. This operated until 1930 when the station was closed. The neighbouring station at Fowey had recently been equipped with a motor lifeboat and this could cover the coast around Mevagissey. The old boat house has since been used as an aquarium; that at Portmellon has been converted into a house.

In 1880 there were around sixty fishing-boats engaged in the mackerel fishery, and herring and pilchards were also important fisheries. Pilchards were also imported from Plymouth for curing at the Cornish Sardine Factory and the imported salt was also used for adding to butter at the same factory. Barley, grown nearby, was exported to Campbeltown, Scotland.

There are currently 63 registered fishing vessels in the harbour worked by 69 fishermen.The harbour also offers tourist fishing trips and there is a regular summer passenger ferry to Fowey.

Each year at the end of June, Mevagissey celebrates Feast Week, a week of family fun, music, and floral dances through the streets; finally at the end of the week there is a carnival and a fireworks display.

Mevagissey is within the Cornwall Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) which along with National Parks, are considered to be the most special landscapes in the country and belong to an international family of protected areas. It is a designation aimed at conserving and enhancing the natural beauty of the area.

The Wurzels wrote a song called "Mevagissey".

I climb up out of the harbour and up to the road above to walk into Portmellon.

Road down towards Portmellon

Portmellon

Portmellon has a long history of wooden boat building and although there is still a boatyard it is used mainly for storage and repairs of boats, no actual boat building takes place commercially today

Mevagissey Rowing Club use Portmellon Cove for the storage of their gig boats and crew training rowing out of the cove, in 1869 Mevagissey's first lifeboat the "South Warwickshire" was housed at Portmellon

There is a traditional Cornish pub in the cove called "The Rising Sun Inn" it has a lovely beamed bar and enviable views over the bay, they provide lovely food and offer B&B accommodation. see their web www.therisingsuninn.com

I climb up out of Portmellon and down onto Chapel Point, that I have seen many times before in the past but not knowing what it was.

Chapel Point, an isolated spit of land reaching out into the English Channel, offering a spectacular setting for the 3 houses built there (1933-1938).

Daphne Du Maurier wrote about Chapel Point in her novel "The House on the Strand".

The private road to Chapel Point

The beach at Chapel Point is called Colona Beach. A little gem of a beach nestling between Chapel Point and Turbot Point.

The Old Boat Hose, Colona Beach

Just up from Colona Beach along the Coast Footpath to Turbot Point is Bodrugans Leap. So named because from here in 1487 it is said Sir Henry Bodrugan made a tremendous leap over the cliffs into a waiting boat and fled to France.

He was being pursued by an army of Sir Richard Edgcumbe for treason.

Walking along the coastal footpath you can see where the green fields of Cornwall meet the blue of the sea.

The footpath continues from Chapel Point and Bodrugan's Leap on to Gorran Haven, a distance of about 2 1/2 miles with spectacular sea and coastal views.

Heading down with Gorran Haven coming into view.

I now reach Gorran Haven. The village lies in a cove between two sandy beaches. Vault Beach (also known as Bow beach) is south of Gorran Haven and Great Perhaver Beach is to the north.

Gorran Haven was an ancient fishing harbour; its first pier was built in the 15th century. In the 18th and 19th centuries it became a port handling merchandise brought from Fowey by barges and lighters. The pier was rebuilt in the 1820s and reconstructed in 1888.

There is two churches in the village, Haven Church (previously Mount Zion,) and St Just Church. St Just Church had been used as a fish cellar for over a century. In 1812 the Congregationalists of Mevagissey moved into the Haven using St Just as their Meeting House and referring to it as the old Chapel Cellar. Haven Church is a non-denominational church.

The geologist Charles William Peach worked in the area and there is a plaque to his memory in the village. His son Ben Peach was born in Gorran Haven.

The former head of MI6 Sir Richard Dearlove was born and initially raised in Gorran Haven.

The writer Colin Wilson settled in Gorran Haven during the 1950s.

After a short break and a quick bite to eat on the beach, I made my way back up the cliffs to climb back above Gorran Haven.

The footpath continues past the quieter Vault Beach.

I reach the National Trusts Dodman Point.

At 374 feet (114 m) Dodman Point near Mevagissey is the highest headland on the south Cornwall coast.It was originally known as the Deadman or Deadman's Point, which names are still sometimes used. It hosts the remains of an Iron Age promontory fort.At its seaward end is a large granite cross, erected to help protect shipping from this headland.It is mentioned in the shanty Spanish Ladies.

To its north-east and in its lee is the small anchorage and sand beach of Gorran Haven.

Below the large stone cross, there is a way down to the bottom of the small cliffs and there is some climbing there on the faces mainly bouldering as it is rarely scaled so there are no fixed anchor points.

The view from " The Dodman" as it is known locally, is Veryan Bay and the Roseland Peninsula.

I head down to Hemmci Beach after passing along High point and Gell Point.

Hemmick Beach is situated at the east end of Veryan Bay, on the west side of the Dodman Point headland, and to the south of the hamlet of Boswinger and to the west of Penare.

Author David Clegg describes the beach as "small and sandy and just one lovely granite cottage", while the Rough Guide to Britain notes the rocky outcrops, inlets and coves in the vicinity.

In 1971, British vessel Ewt 263 was being towed from Santander to Rotterdam by the tug Britannia when she broke in half off Lizard Point. The stern section was towed into Falmouth and the bow section was believed to be washed up between Hemmick beach and Dodman Point.

I stopped at Hemmick Beach for a swim, after getting changed behind some rocks, I got into the cool water and a wave crashes over my head. A bit choppy today !

I set off again up the cliff towards Greeb Point.

Lambsowden Cove

Now I reach Porthluney Cove and Caerhays Castle, the last point before I start to head back to Mevagissey.

Porthluney Cove is a privately owned, secluded family beach with a large expanse of golden sand that's popular with the locals. South facing, in front of Caerhays Castle and Gardens, the beach enjoys a striking backdrop. There's plenty of room for beach games and exploring the rocks on the west side at low tide. The beach is excellent for swimming . The beach is directly in front of the daily charge car park and seasonal cafe, picnic area and basic toilet facilities are provided.

The beach is open to the public at all times and the castle at certain times.

I stop at the Porthluney Beach cafe for a cup of tea and some chips.

Caerhays Castle was closed so I was unable to get a better look.

Caerhays Castle or Carhayes Castle (translation of caerhays into English: "enclosed castle") is a semi-castellated manor house.

In the Early Middle Ages, the manor belonged to the Arundell family. The earliest record of the name is Karihaes in 1259, and is recorded as Carihays in 1379, but its original meaning is obscure. In about 1379, it passed by marriage to the Trevanion family after the marriage of Robert Trevanion to Johanna Arundell, daughter and heiress of Rudolph Arundell of Caerhays. John Trevanion inherited the estate in 1703 after which he improved the manor house existing on the site and developed gardens.

With the death of William Trevanion in 1767, the estate passed to his sister's son, John Bettesworth.John's son, John Bettesworth-Trevanion, built the present castle on a site close to the former manor house between 1807 and 1810; his architect was the Anglo-Welsh John Nash. The castle was built close to the site of the original ancient home that had itself undergone expansion during the reign of King Henry VIII.

After Bettesworth-Trevanion left for Paris, unable to pay his bills, Michael Williams II purchased Caerhays from his creditors in 1854. As the house had been unoccupied for over a decade and had not been watertight for some of that time, his younger brother Sir William Williams, 1st Baronet, of Tregullow (1791–1870), with his son John Michael Williams (1813–1880), JP, DL, initiated an extensive repair programme. Michael Williams II died in 1858 and left Caerhays to his eldest son John Michael Williams (1813–1880), whilst he left Scorrier House to his sixth son George Williams (1827–1891), DL, JP, High Sheriff of Cornwall in 1875. After the death of John Michael Williams in 1880 his second son, John Charles Williams (1861–1939), then aged 18, inherited the Caerhays estate. (His elder brother was Michael Williams (1857–1899) of Gnaton Hall, who died without progeny). John Charles Williams married in 1884, at which time the house again went through restoration and alteration. He became a plantsman, sponsoring plant hunting expeditions in order to fill the castle garden with new acquisitions. Seeds brought back from China by Ernest Henry Wilson in 1903 were donated to J.C. Williams by Harry Veitch. The current owner in 2012 is Charles Williams.

Filming for Miss Peregrine's Home for Peculiar Children took place, over three months, on the estate and at Porthluney Cove in 2015^.

Caerhays also features in the later Poldark novels, where Ross and Demelza Poldark's son Jeremy meets a love interest at Caerhays.

I walk up the hill away from the bay and on towards Tregavarras.

After nothing but mud and wet grass since I left Mevagissey, My wet feet were in danger of trenchfoot. I really wish I had bought my walking boots ( wasnt expecting this!).

I walk along the road through Tregavarras and on towards a footpath further up.

Taking a path and then more muddy road walking I reach a path that will lead me to Gorran Churchtown.

Gorran Churchtown is situated approximately nine miles (14 km) south-southwest of St Austell; Gorran Haven, the largest settlement in the parish, is a mile to the east.

I pass the Barley Sheaf in Gorran Churchtown. Built in 1837 by local farmer William Kendall of nearby Bodrugan Barton. The Barley Sheaf has been restored and reopened by his Great Great Great Grandson; Tom White, and his wife Anne-Marie. The Barley Sheaf at Gorran serves great food, fine wines and the best Cornish Real Ales.

The parish church is dedicated to St Gorran (Goronus). It comprises a chancel, nave, south aisle, north transept, and vestry. The arcade has eight obtuse arches of Pentewan stone, supported on pillars of the same material. The porch itself is finshed with battlements and pinnacles; there is a blocked north door. The tower is of three stages, buttressed on the square, and finished with battlements and crocketed pinnacles.

St Goran's stands on the site of a Norman-built cruciform church, some parts of which remain and are incorporated into the church which was later built onto the site, evolving more or less as many older churches, with additions such as the south aisle in the late 14th century, and the tower later in the 15th century, while the North doorway is apparently of the 13th century. Within the nave there are 53 ancient beech (pew) ends, more than in most churches; whilst in the chancel are some fine examples of more modern wood carvings. The tower, which was rebuilt in 1606 in place of a steeple which was taken down in consequence of having fallen into decay, is now a well-known day mark for shipping, and can be seen from a considerable distance.