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On Monday the 15th of May 2023 Ian and I drove to Burnham Deepdale and parked up in the layby next to the church. We were half hour early for the 0902 hrs bus to Hunstanton so we had a coffee in the cafe opposite. At 0902 on the dot the 36 Coastliner arrived and we were on our way to Hunstanton. The skies were black and it had started to rain. I crossed my fingers it'll pass over.
We arrive in Hunstanton and alight at the bus station and walk down to the seafront.
We start the Norfolk Coast Path by The Green and its War Memorial and the statue of Henry Le Strange.
Victorian nobleman Le Strange dreamed of creating a seaside resort to rival the likes of Brighton and Southend on the shores of The Wash..
In the 1840s, he convinced investors to back his idea by funding a railway line to bring trippers to the coast.
He died aged 47 the year the line was opened, in 1862, so did not live to see the town become a success.
We walk down to the Hunstanton Sign for a photograph.
Hunstanton is a 19th-century resort town, initially known as New Hunstanton to distinguish it from the adjacent village of that name. The new town soon exceeded the village in scale and population.
The original settlement, now Old Hunstanton, probably gained its name from the River Hun, which runs to the coast just to the east. It has also been argued that the name originated from "Honeystone", referring to the local red carr stone. The river begins in the grounds of Old Hunstanton Park, which surrounds the moated Hunstanton Hall, the ancestral home of the Le Strange family. Old Hunstanton village is of prehistoric origin and lies near to the head of Peddars Way. In 1970, evidence of Neolithic settlement was found. The quiet character of the village remains distinct from its busy sibling and complements it with clifftop walks past a redundant lighthouse and the ruins of St Edmund's Chapel, built in 1272.
Designed by J.W. Wilson, this 830 foot pier opened on Easter Sunday 1870. In 1882, paddle steamer services commenced across the Wash to the new Skegness Pier.
The ‘handsome and commodious pavilion’, added in the 1890s, was destroyed by fire on 11th June 1939 and was not replaced.
After World War II, the pier housed a roller-skating centre and a small zoo and ‘starred’ in the 1956 film ‘Barnacle Bill’. A miniature steam railway, powered by a Bassett-Lowke engine, ran the length of the pier. The line was dismantled in the 1950s.
The seaward end fell into disuse but, at the shoreward end, a two-storey amusement building (replacing an old arcade and cafe) was completed in 1964.
On 11th January 1978, a storm destroyed most of the pier and a small section at the end was removed by the council some weeks later. The shoreward end amusement arcade survived, along with one set of piles, to remind people of what had arguably been East Anglia’s finest pier.
However, in 2002, the entire building, as well as the remains of the pier, were destroyed in a fire. As the building was so badly damaged, firemen could not determine the cause of the fire. Today, a new arcade and bowling alley complex occupies the site, but although the building is still referred to locally as the ‘Pier’, there is virtually nothing left that could be described as a pier in any real sense. (Source National Pier Society)
We walk up to where the steps will take up the cliff, we have a choice walk the beach as the tide is out or walk the cliff top and see the lighthouse. Ian opts for the latter.
We can see the famous red and white striped cliffs ahead.
The stripes in the cliffs are caused by layers of different-coloured rock. The main layers are carrstone and chalk. Carrstone is the brown layer and consists of sandstone - sand cemented together by iron oxide (rust). In places where the cement is stronger, the rock is darker and less crumbly. There are no fossils in this layer apart from a little fossilised wood. The red and white chalk is made of limestone. Limestone forms in warm tropical climates, which suggests that Hunstanton's climate was once warmer than it is today. The colour of the red chalk is due to iron staining.
We walk on along the cliff top with the wind still howling to enter Old Hunstanton and its light house and the ruins of St Edmunds Chapel.
The chapel, now in ruins, was erected in 1272 in memory of St Edmund who landed at Hunstanton in 855 to be crowned King of East Anglia. He led an army against Viking invaders but was defeated, captured and martyred. He became the first patron saint of England before being replaced by St George.
There is a statue of a wolf here and is part of a wolf trail here in Hunstanton. This is due to the legend of St Edmund and the wolf.
Standing here now, it hardly seems the place of a bloodthirsty legend but the story goes like this....
Things went swimmingly to begin with, after Edmund waded ashore to claim the kingdom of East Anglia in 854AD.
But the Vikings had their eye on Norfolk. In 869, they attacked the kingdom led by the fearsome Ivar the Boneless. Edmund and his forces engaged them near Diss.
Edmund was fearfully tortured by the vikings,' he said. 'Before he died, there's a story he'd been shot by so many arrows he looked like a hedgehog. He was crying out for his Lord.
When torture failed to make Edmund renounce his faith, he was beheaded by his captors.
His head rolled to the floor,' said Mr Smith. The vikings hated anything to do with Christianity so they played the most terrible game of rugby, throwing the head from one to another.
When they got fed up, they threw Edmund's body onto their camp's rubbish tip and Edmund's head into the forest.
Days later, Edmund's followers found his body and began the search for his head so he could be given a decent burial.
Supporters found a huge great wolf and before its paws was St Edmund's head all tranquil and untouched by the animals of the forest.
I did a walk to where his head was found last year, blog for this is here.
We walk through the Chapels Arch and up to the lighthouse which is now a holiday let.
Before the establishment of a lighthouse in the vicinity, it appears that sailors used the lights burning in St Edmund's Chapel to guide them into The Wash by night. The pair of lighthouses that later stood on the site were known as the 'Chapel Lights.
A 19th century lighthouse, the site of earlier lighthouses and the site of a Royal Observer Corps post. The current lighthouse was built during the first half of the 19th century. It superceded a wooden structure that was built in the late 18th century; this building itself had succeeded a lighthouse built around 1665. The standing building was used as a lighthouse until 1921 and from 1934 until 1957 it was used by the Royal Observer Corps. In 1957 an observation post was constructed alongside the lighthouse and this functioned until 1968.
The lantern was equipped with parabolic reflectors and oil lamps in place of a coal fire. Thus Hunstanton is said to have been the first 'major coast light' in Britain to employ an illuminant other than coal, and the first lighthouse in the world to be fitted with a parabolic reflector (though similar claims are made for Hutchinson's lighthouses in Liverpool).
We pass the Coastguard Lookout post next to the lighthouse.
Originally built as a Marconi Wireless Station back in 1906, the Coastguard Lookout played an important part in both World Wars, intercepting German radio transmissions and tracing the German fleet.
The Second World War saw the building continue as a signal station and was visited by his Majesty King George VI and Queen Elizabeth in 1943, together with Princesses Elizabeth (Queen Elizabeth II) and Margaret, who spent time with the Coastguard and all four signed their royal insignias in the coastguard’s log book. This is an event remembered by a proudly-displayed commemorative plaque on the side of the building.
It now is also a holiday let.
We follow the path down beside a car park and the path leads onto the beach but we follow the path beside trees on both sides thankful of the protection from the wind.
The path takes us behind wooden beach huts and along with views to the sea.
After passing the Old Hunstanton Lifeboat centre, we skirt along the edge of a golf course on our right and the sand dunes to the left.
After bored of not seeing the sea we walk to the other side of the dunes, better view but the wind is back!
The path curves around to the right and we reach a signpost we carry straight on ignoring the signs to the beach or the Peddars Way.
We walk along an embankment where there are signs to keep dogs on a lead to avoid them harassing the seals on the beach.
Now we have views of the beautiful beach here at Gore Point and the wave crashing in.
Further along is the site of Seahenge.
Seahenge, also known as Holme I, was a prehistoric monument located in the village of Holme-next-the-Sea, near Old Hunstanton. A timber circle with an upturned tree root in the centre, Seahenge, along with the nearby timber circle Holme II, was built in the spring-summer of 2049 BCE, during the early Bronze Age in Britain. Contemporary theory is that they were used for ritual purposes; in particular Holme II has been interpreted as a mortuary monument that may originally have formed the boundary of a burial mound.
In order to preserve the timber in the site from exposure to air, due to recent exposure of the remains by the sea, it was excavated in Spring 1999, and its remains taken to an archeological museum and then a maritime museum for preservation of the wood. In 1999, a reproduction was put up by some of the excavators, near the site. In 2008, after further study, a second reproduction was erected near the original's location. Due to controversy about the excavation of Seahenge, Holme II was left in place to be monitored as it is gradually destroyed by erosion.
We follow the path around and we reach Holme Dunes Visitor centre owned by Norfolk Wildlife Trust. we divert off the path to use the toilets, café and have lunch here.
Holme Dunes is superbly located to attract migrating birds. It also holds a variety of important habitats which support numerous other wildlife species including natterjack toads, butterflies and dragonflies, as well as a large number of interesting plants. Various military remains from the Second World War can be glimpsed around the reserve, including the remnants of a target-railway used to train artillery.
We leave the Holme Dunes behind and take to the wooden boardwalk that takes us away and eventually heading inland.
I just love the sound of the wind blowing through the reeds, so relaxing.
We leave the path and head of into Thornham. We walk up Church Street pass some pretty homes.
All Saints Church was started in Norman times, but building came to an abrupt stop in 1348 with the scourge of the Black Death. The tower, started in 1633, was left unfinished after the Great Fire of London in 1666 when the masons departed to rebuild London. It was not to be completed until 1935 when it was built to commemorate King George V's Silver Jubilee.
We walk down the yew tree lined hedge to the church.
The minesweeper HMS Thornham gave its ship's bell to Thornham Church in 1969 and it is rung only once a year. Each November it is rung to signal the two minutes silence. The ship's flag that accompanies the bell was flown on HMS Victory. On the wall alongside the bell there is a framed photograph of HMS Thornham.
The octagonal font is 15th century. The panels contain painted shields. The cross of St. Andrew, The cross of St. George, The instruments of the Passion, the three coronets for the See of Ely, Three crowns for East Anglia and Three chalices for the Blessed Sacrament.
The rood screen was donated by John Miller and his wife Clarice. It sustained considerable damage in the 17th century but is still worth seeing. It is one of the few examples showing Old Testament Prophets rather than the Twelve Apostles.
We leave the church and instead of following the Coast path that heads further inland and across a farm track, we opt to follow the road instead.
We follow the road through Thornham, pretty village this is.
Although this has a path all the way along, it does get tiresome after a while, maybe we should have followed the route even if it meant adding a little extra mileage.
The road passes through the village of Titchwell and we have views across to RSPB Titchwell Marsh nature reserve.
The villages name means 'Young goat spring/stream'.
The village is noted for its RSPB reserve at Titchwell Marsh, an area of salt and freshwater marsh that extends along the coast towards Brancaster. It also has an Anglo Saxonchurch with an unusual spirelet.
There is a small nature reserve on the site of a former chalk pit, which is believed to have first been used in Roman times. In 1786, under the Inclosure Act of 1773, the land came into ownership of Titchwell Parish. After all the chalk had been removed, the land became a rubbish dump, which was soon closed following public outcry. Local farmers and Norfolk County Council then tidied the pit and planted trees and shrubs, creating a mini-reserve.
Titchwell used to have two pubs, but one of them, "The Three Horseshoes" has now been converted into apartments for the use of holidaymakers and investors. The village also has a 15th-century village cross at its centre, which would have been a marker point and meeting place for travellers and pilgrims.
We now enter Brancaster.
The villages name means 'Roman site of Branodunum', where the original Romano-British name may be preserved in the first element. The name is from British bran(n)o, 'crow/raven' possibly used as a personal name, and duno-, 'fortification'. Alternatively, perhaps, 'broomy Roman site.
St Mary's church at Burnham Deepdale is one of 124 existing round-tower churches in Norfolk; it also has a carved Norman font.
We walk down Broad Lane and take a path into The Manor of Brancaster. The path is blocked and diverted back along the road. Not fancying this we walked around the fence and along the boardwalk. It is indeed broken and rotten in places but passable.
Boardwalk not in the best condition but better than the diversion!
In the 1950s and 60s, Brancaster was considered as a possible location for the launching site for the British space programme. This idea was expanded to include the village becoming the base for a facility that could be used by a spaceplane to undertake secret flights over the USSR. Development would have meant that the village would probably have been razed and the villagers rehoused.
The eventual installation of oil rigs in the North Sea saw the idea shelved, as the risk, however slight, of atmospheric re-entry material hitting the rigs, was too great.
There was a Roman fort and settlement here named Branodunum to the east of the modern village. The Saxon Shore fort (and the related civilian settlement, much of which was destroyed during the construction of a locally opposed housing development in the 1970s) is visible only as grass-covered mounds and remains mainly unexcavated.
I could see no sign of the forts location however.
After much walking we reach Brancaster Staithe.
Brancaster Staithe merges into Burnham Deepdale. Although separate villages, the two act as one, sharing facilities. Brancaster Staithe has the main harbour access, sailing club, sailing school, The White Horse pub & hotel and The Jolly Sailors pub. Burnham Deepdale has the church, St Mary's, and the majority of the shopping, Deepdale Cafe, Dalegate Market and the tourism accommodation facilities of Deepdale Backpackers & Camping.
Both villages offer accommodation in holiday cottages, hostels, camping, hotels and bed & breakfasts. Village life centres on the harbour and its thriving fishing and sailing community.
Ian stopped to buy some cockles from the crab hut, I was tempted to try some crab as I've never had it before, but will wait until we reach Cromer for the crab!
The origin of the name Brancaster Staithe is unclear, however, several theories have been put forward. The name Brancaster is thought to be a combination of the Latin word "castra", meaning a walled town or Roman station, and "brom", an Old English word meaning a hill where broom grows, in this case probably referring to the furze located on Barrow Common.
Here at Brancaster Staithe you’ll only get fresh fish caught from the local fishing boats and sold from wooden huts dotted around the village and harbour. There’s the Fish Shed right on the road, as well as various signs for ‘mussels for sale’ on the outside of houses, and if you catch them at the right time, you’ll even see the local fishermen at work, grading the mussels from their catch. There is still a really important fishing community here in Brancaster Staithe.
Nice to see all the colourful fishing boats in the sunshine.
We walk on along the path passing a shed that had the floodline of December 2013, a real reminder of the risks living by the beautiful coastline.
We reach the White Horse in Brancaster Staithe we stopped of course and have a pint of Norfolk Adder Cider by Woodfordes. Lovely too it was sitting there in the sun enjoying the views. A stark contrast compared to this morning.
The White Horse at Brancaster Staithe is bringing back The Marshbar which was started in 2020 as a response to lockdown restrictions.
We sat and drank as I watched a red shank probing for its dinner in the mud and a kestrel hovering above also hoping for a meal.
We leave the pub behind and walk on following then path along the marsh.
We take a path by a houseboat at a signpost and we walk back into Burnham Deepdale where we had parked.
We reach the car dump our bags and boots and walk over to the shop to buy some local beers to take home. Ian wanted to have a look about the campsite here too!
A quick visit to look at the outside of St Marys Church here before heading home.
This church has served the tiny coastal village of Burnham Deepdale since, it is believed, the 11th century.However, although originally thought to be Saxon in origin, the round tower shows a mixture of influences and is now thought likely to have been built after 1066 using the traditional techniques which survived the Norman invasion.
The Round Tower has a triangular headed doorway on the first stage above the tower arch inside the church that shows this mixture of influences. A special feature is that the base of the tower is 6 inches thicker up to a height of 10 feet. The coursing of the flints does not have the appearance of Saxon work. A unique feature of East Anglia, there are 175 round towers still surviving from an original 1000. St Mary's is one of a group of three in the adjacent parishes of Titchwell, Burnham Norton and Burnham Deepdale. They were either part of the church or built as an addition.
The tower houses a bell to summon the parishioners to church. The bell in St. Mary's was made in the 14th century by M. Derby of King's Lynn. It has, in the past, been considered that square towers were too difficult to build with the available materials of flint and conglomerate, but that has proved false and it is more likely that the building of a round tower had a cultural significance.
A great walk now for the drive home!