Day One: 29/04/2024
On Monday the 29th April 2024, Mel and I left home at 430am and arrived at Gatwick Long stay car park at 0530 hours. A quick shuttle bus to the terminal and after bag check-in, security etc we were boarding our Easyjet flight to Geneva, Switzerland.
Only about an 1 hour 20 minute flight and we were flying over Lake Geneva or Lac Leman as its known here in Switzerland.
It was so nice to see the mountains of the Mont Blanc Massif as we flew in.
We landed, collected the case from luggage reclaim and made our way outside to try and find the bus stop for the Bla Bla Car bus to Annecy. We found where we expected it to be, then a man says its upstairs, so we rush up top. It appears its only local buses into Geneva from here, so we rush back down as our bus pulls in. Relieved and onboard we take the 50 minute ride across the border into France and arrived at the bus station at Annecy Train Station. Here it was only a short stroll to our Campanile Hotel on Rue Vaugelas. Lucky enough our room was ready early and we were able to book into the room.
After settling into the room we took a walk out into Annecy. I was excited to see it after wanting to go for so long.
Annecy is the largest town of the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of South-Eastern France. It lies on the northern tip of Lake Annecy, 35 kilometres (22 mi) south of Geneva, Switzerland. Nicknamed the "Pearl of the French Alps" in Raoul Blanchard's monograph describing its location between lake and mountains, the town controls the northern entrance to the lake gorge.
It was everything I expected to be, absolutely breath-taking! I was beaming from ear to ear to be here at last!
Switching from the counts of Geneva's dwelling in the 13th century, to the counts of Savoy's in the 14th century, the city became Savoy's capital in 1434 during the Genevois-Nemours prerogative until 1659. Its role increased in 1536, during the Calvinist Reformation in Geneva, while the bishop took refuge in Annecy. Saint Francis de Sales gave Annecy its advanced Catholic citadel role known as Counter-Reformation. The annexation of Savoy merged the city to France in 1860. Sometimes called "Venice of the Alps", this idyllic and touristic representation comes from the three canals and the Thiou river, which passes through the old city. The city experienced an industrial development in the 19th century with silk manufacturing. Some of its industrial legacy remains today with the headquarters of NTN-SNR bearings, Salomon, Entremont and Dassault Aviation.
From the end of the 19th century, Annecy developed tourism around its lake summer facilities, winter resorts proximity and cultural attraction with its castle renovation and fine art museum opening in 1956 and the Animated Film Festival since 1963, hosted in Bonlieu's cultural centre. The municipal environmental policy managed to keep 40.3% of green spaces, and the city was awarded the "Golden Flower" in 2015, given to the nine most-flowered French cities.
Sometimes called "Venice of the Alps", this idyllic and touristic representation comes from the three canals and the Thiou river, which passes through the old city.
Annecy is a vibrant town situated in the Haute-Savoie region of France and bordered by Switzerland and Italy and dominated by the incredible Aiguilles de Chamonix mountain chain. With these vast, jagged mountains towering over the town, the scenery here is arguably the most spectacular in the French Alps.
It is great to back in France, surrounded by great food. Speaking of food we stop under the arch above and purchase a Jambon and Fromage (Ham and Cheese) Baguette and a bottle of a local Wheat beer and walk down to Lake Annecy (Lac D,Annecy in French) to enjoy these.
The view of the mountains towering above the lake is just stunning, and it isn't too busy just yet as its a weekday and not in peak season.
Lake Annecy is the third-largest lake in France, after the Lac du Bourget and Lac de Grand-Lieu, if the French part of Lake Geneva, which is shared between Switzerland and France, is excluded. It is known as "Europe's cleanest lake" because of strict environmental regulations introduced in the 1960s. It is a popular tourist destination known for its swimming and water sports.
The lake was formed about 18,000 years ago, at the time the large alpine glaciers melted. It is fed by many small rivers from the surrounding mountains (Ire, Eau morte, Laudon, Bornette and Biolon) and a powerful underwater source, the Boubioz, at an 82-metre depth (269 ft).
We walk around the lake and up to Pont des Amours (Bridge of Love)
on the lake.
Some say the Public Gardens Footbridge was built simply to connect the Plaquier to the Gardens of Europe. So, why does everyone call it the "Bridge of Love"? There is a popular legend that if two lovers meet in the middle of the bridge and kiss they will stay together forever. Cynics claim it is a favorite place for ladies of the night.
Located on the shores of Lake Annecy by the Vasse Canal, it does provide easy access to the gardens for couples looking for serenity. Whatever the legend, the bridge, to this day, is more than a busy walkway. It is a romantic passage to a trusted trysting place with captivating views of the city, the mountains and the lake.
We leave the lake and head back into the old town.
Le vieil Annecy ("Old Annecy"; not to be confused with Annecy-le-Vieux, formerly a neighbouring town but now merged into Annecy), was a settlement from the time of the Romans. Annecy was the court of the counts of Geneva or Genevois from the 10th century. It passed to the counts of Savoy in 1401. In 1444, it became the regional capital of the provinces of Genevois, Faucigny and Beaufortain.
With the advance of Calvinism, Annecy became a centre for the Counter-Reformation, the old Bishopric of Geneva being transferred to it in 1535. Francis of Sales was born in Sales, France in 1567 and served as bishop of Annecy from 1602 to 1622; his relics are preserved in the cathedral. During the French Revolution, the Savoy region was conquered by France. Annecy became attached to the department of Mont Blanc, whose capital was Chambéry. The Catholic diocese was suppressed in 1801.
After the Bourbon Restoration in 1815, Annecy was returned to the King of Sardinia and the Catholic diocese restored in 1822. When Savoy was annexed to France in 1860 with the Treaty of Turin, it became the capital of the new department of Haute-Savoie. Annecy was the site of the second round of General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade (GATT) talks in 1949. In 2012, a multiple murder occurred in the Annecy area.
The new municipality was established on 1 January 2017 by merger with the former communes of Annecy-le-Vieux, Cran-Gevrier, Meythet, Pringy and Seynod.
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| Palais de l'ÃŽle |
We stop for an ice-cream from Glacier des Alpes. Apparently this is highly recommended and it really was fantastic ice cream. Mel had the chocolate while I choose a blueberry ice cream.
We walked up a uphill on Rpe du Château to reach Musée-Château d'Annecy.
Listed as a Historical Monument in 1902, Annecy Castle became the residence of the Counts of Geneva in the 13th and 14th centuries. Over the following two centuries, successive modifications transformed the castle, giving it the unique appearance we can admire today. The resulting structure is a combination of medieval defensive architecture and renaissance elegance, inspired by castles in Ile de France. Abandoned as a residence in the 17th century, the Annecy Castle was later used as military barracks until 1947.
The Castle-Museum
In 1953, the city of Annecy bought the castle from the Ministry of Defence. The museum's first exhibition was inaugurated three years later. Since then, the museum has presented various temporary exhibitions for visitors, as well as collections related to regional heritage, underwater archeology, medieval sculpture, landscape painting, contemporary art and animation films.
In its current state, the castle is a good illustration of how castle architecture changed between the 13th and 16th centuries. The Tour de la Reine is the oldest part of the castle, dating back to the 13th century. Built on elevated ground, it most likely replaced a primitive keep. Measuring over 30 meters high and with walls up to 3.3 meters thick, the tower was used for defensive and military purposes.
The residential quarters of the castle are more recent. Both the Logis Nemours and the Logis Neuf (new lodging house) can be dated to the 16th century and are typical examples of Renaissance architecture. These later constructions clearly attest to the growing importance of elegance and comfort to be found in princely residences. Large windows adorn the facades and allow for natural light to enter the rooms, some of which are decorated with wall paintings and equipped with latrines.
We choose not to pay and enter but instead walk back down the hill to the old tow via quaint back streets.
We walk through the arch of the clock tower called Sainte-Claire gate.
The St. Claire Street is situated in the district of Sainte Claire, between the banks of the Thiou River and the hillside of Annecy Aastle. The winding, narrow street extends from the small Sepulchre Gate through the Faubourg Sainte Claire and the medieval Sainte Claire Gate with its bell turret.
The St. Claire Street then leads the way into the Annecy old town and the small Sainte-Claire Square. On the Sainte-Claire Square is the Gallo House. This is an 18th century home named after its architect. The roof is slightly tilted, like a slouch hat. The facade is elaborately ornamented.
The street is lined with arcades of stone, affording shelter to pedestrians in foul weather. The arcades are in the form of arches supported by columns.
Number 18 is the Bagnorea House. The house was built in 1582 and was once the residence of Antoine Favre, President of the Genevois Regional Council. The house was donated by M. Favre to St. Francois de Sales. In 1607 Favre and St Francois started the Academy Florimontane. The Academy concerns itself today with the history of Savoy.
The Sainte-Claire Street morphs into the Isle Street and the tiny Effecheres Square. The Isle Street, in turn, becomes the Perriere Street. The winding Perriere Street gets narrower until it reaches the Perriere Gate. The Perriere Gate in medieval times was the main entrance to old Annecy. It is still part of the castle's walls.
We head back along the canals and back to the hotel for a quick nap before heading out again later!
After our nap we head back out to the old town to find some dinner.
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| Palais de l'ÃŽle |
Listed as a historic monument in 1900, the Palais de l'Ile, often described as a "house in the shape of a ship" has been a prison, a courthouse and an administrative centre. It is an original structure, the oldest parts of which date from the 12th century.
Firstly a simple quadrangular building described as a stronghold, which occasionally housed the prison and the minting workshop of the Counts of Geneva, today, the building referred to as the Palais de l'Ile is an original medieval monument: It is built on a natural rocky island.
The stronghold was referred to for the first time in 1325 as a prison when the lord of Annecy paid Jean de Monthoux, the lord of Isle, for food for two prisoners.
In 1355, Count Amadeus III of Geneva was awarded "the right to mint gold and silver on his land" by the Emperor Charles IV of the Holy Empire. A construction campaign led to the creation of a minting workshop which ceased activity at the end of the 14th century. The Geneva family died out. Annecy and the Geneva region were attached to the Duchy of Savoie and Duke Amadeus VIII gave the residence to the Monthoux family.
At the end of the 16th century, the house which sheltered the courthouse, became known as the Palais de Justice de l'Ile.
After the 18th century, the building was used for administrative functions, but also continued to be used as a prison up until 1864 when a new prison was built. This has since been destroyed. The Palais de l'Ile became a home for the elderly between 1865 and 1880.
At the time, Annecy Municipal Council made plans to demolish the Palais de l'Ile in order to make room for baths, but the project was abandoned. The building was used temporarily as a school for stone carvers and carpenters, a gymnasium and accommodation.
The novelist Andre Theuriet and Charles Suisse, the Inspector for Historic Monuments, spoke out against the planned demolition. On 16 February 1900, the Palais de l'Ile was listed as a historic monument and a first phase of renovation work was launched. The final phase of restoration dates from 1983-1985.
After much looking at menus throughout the town, (All I may add are in French. I find a translate option on Google. I understood some French but this was a big help) we decide to eat at La Galéjade by the canal edge.
Mel opts for a Duvel Blonde and me a Chimay Première Red, both Belgian beers.
We both have the Savoyard escalop with Reblochon sauce.
Chicken, pancetta, cream, Reblochon, all in one dish…very nice too!
After dinner we decide to have a stroll around the lake.
There is much calmness around the lake in the evening after all the day trippers have left.
We walk as far as the marina and then turn to head back into town.
The old town looks amazing in the day, but by night all lit up it is just magical!
The ancient thoroughfares of the old town cluster around the River Thiou – a rushing body of turquoise water that’s bridged by wrought iron beauties heavy with colourful flowers. The pastel facades of buildings hint at the city’s alpine location – wooden balconies peek out from upper floors, rooftops starts to look a little chalet-like – but they’d look equally at home in Provence.
A truly magical end to the day, stroll the canals in the old town and watch the lights dancing on the water.
We stop at Beer O'clock, a great place to sample craft beer.
A novel idea, you load up a card with money and this is place in front of a tap of your choice and you can pour yourself as little or as much as you like, and it'll charge for the amount you poured off your card.
After Beer O'Clock we made our way back to the hotel for the night.
On Tuesday we woke up and I dashed up the road to PAUL bakery, 7bis Rue de la République, to grab coffee and pastries to take back to the hotel room for breakfast. The hotel charge of 13.90 euros each for breakfast for just far too steep!
After breakfast we made our way to the bus station to catch a Bla Bla Car bus I had booked to take us to Chamonix for the day. This is a 1 hr and 30 minute ride with two stops(Cluses and Sallanches).
The route initially was motorway but this soon opened out to glorious mountain views.
A quick stop in Cluses motorway services we continued on.
We pass through the pretty commune of Sallanches.
Sallanches is a pleasant small town that features two notable historic monuments: the bridge of Saint-Martin, and the collegiale Church of Saint-Jacques.
We arrive in Chamonix and the bus stops by the Train station, where we disembark.
As soon as we were off the bus you could smell the fresh Alpine air!
We walk on into crossing the bridge over the River Arve.
Chamonix-Mont-Blanc is a commune in the Haute-Savoie department in the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region in Southeastern France. It was the site of the first Winter Olympics, held in 1924.
We walk down Av. Ravanel le Rouge and into the town.
Chamonix is situated in the French Alps just north of Mont Blanc, the highest mountain in Western Europe. Between the peaks of the Aiguilles Rouges and the notable Aiguille du Midi, it borders both Switzerland and Italy. It is one of the oldest ski resorts in France, popular with alpinists and mountain enthusiasts. Via the cable car lift to the Aiguille du Midi it is possible to access the off-piste (backcountry) ski run of the Vallée Blanche (White Valley).
The name Campum munitum, meaning fortified plain or field, had been used as early as 1091. By 1283 the name had been abbreviated to a similar form to the modern Chamonis. Other forms through the ages include Chamouny in 1581, Chamony in 1652, Chamouni in 1786, and the particular spelling Chamonix from 1793.
Chamonix is the fourth-largest commune in metropolitan France, with an area of 245 km2 (95 sq mi). Its population of around 8,900 ranks 1,089th within the country of France.
We head back into town, disappointing but still great to get to see Chamonix from below!
Everything about this town screams skiing, so having never skied I'd love to come back one day and give it a try!
The valley was first mentioned in 1091, when it was granted by the Count of the Genevois to the great Benedictine house of St. Michel de la Cluse, near Turin, which by the early 13th century had established a priory there. However, in 1786 the inhabitants bought their freedom from the canons of Sallanches, to whom the priory had been transferred in 1519.
In 1530, the inhabitants obtained from the Count of the Genevois the privilege of holding two fairs a year, while the valley was often visited by the civil officials and by the bishops of Geneva (first recorded visit in 1411, while St. Francis de Sales came there in 1606. But travellers for pleasure were very rare.
Chamonix was part of the historical land of Savoy emerged as the feudal territory of the House of Savoy during the 11th to 14th centuries. The historical territory is shared between the modern countries of France, Italy and Switzerland. The House of Savoy became the longest surviving royal house in Europe. It ruled the County of Savoy to 1416 and then the Duchy of Savoy from 1416 to 1860.
The first party to publish (1744) an account of their visit was that of Richard Pococke, William Windham and others, such as the Englishmen who visited the Mer de Glace in 1741. In 1742 came P. Martel and several other Genevese, in 1760 Horace Bénédict de Saussure, as well as rather later Marc-Théodore Bourrit.
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| Paroisse Saint Bernard du Mont-Blanc |
The Saint-Michel church in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc is a Savoyard or Alpine Baroque style Catholic church with an onion bell tower , from the 12th century and 19th century , placed under the patronage of the Archangel Michael , in Chamonix-Mont -Blanc , in Haute-Savoie . The building was classified as a historic monument in 1979.
I popped into La Refuge Payot, the smell of cheese as you enter was amazing. Shame you cant take it all home!
The growth of tourism in the early 19th century led to the formation of the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix in 1821, to regulate access to the mountain slopes (which were communally or co-operatively owned), and this association held a monopoly of guiding from the town until it was broken by French government action in 1892; thereafter guides were required to hold a diploma issued by a commission dominated by civil servants and members of the French Alpine Club rather than local residents.
From the late 19th century on, tourist development was dominated by national and international initiatives rather than local entrepreneurs, though the local community was increasingly dependent upon and active in the tourist industry.
The commune successfully lobbied to change its name from Chamonix to Chamonix-Mont-Blanc in 1916.However, following the loss of its monopoly, the Compagnie reformed as an association of local guides, and retained an important role in local society; it provided the services of a friendly society to its members, and in the 20th century many of them were noted mountaineers and popularisers of mountain tourism, notably the novelist Roger Frison-Roche, the first member of the Compagnie not to be born in Chamonix.
We stop at Cool Cats for a hotdog.
Mel had the standard frankfurter while I had a local smoked sausage. Very nice hotdogs but the amount of mustard they added was strong and even made my eyes water a bit!
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| Paroisse Saint Bernard du Mont-Blanc with Le Brevent in the background. |
Serving as the host city for the first Winter Olympic Games in 1924 further raised Chamonix's profile as an international tourist destination.
During the Second World War, a Children's Home operated in Chamonix, in which several dozens of Jewish children were hidden from the Nazis. Some of those who hid them were recognised as "Righteous Among the Nations.
Horace Bénédict de Saussure, with Jacques Balmat (left) who points towards the summit of Mont Blanc, Monument at Chamonix.
In 1760 Horace Bénédict de Saussure, offered a financial reward to anyone who could complete the first ascent of Mont Blanc (Monte Bianco in Italian). Saussure was a Genevan Aristocrat, Geologist, Physicist and Alpine traveller. He also wrote Les Voyages dans les Alpes documenting his travels and is regarded by many as the founder of Alpinism.
Several unsuccessful attempts were made over the next few years to climb Mont Blanc and it wasn’t until 8 August 1786 that the reward was claimed by two local Chamonix men who climbed the mountain from the Chamonix valley. They were Jacques Balmat, a Chamois hunter and crystal collector, and Dr Michel Gabriel Paccard, a Chamonix doctor.
We continue to walk around visiting tourist shops and the like.
We walk down Av. de l'Aiguille du Midi and decide to stop at Pain de Tradition for drinks and a cake.
I have a coffee and a raspberry Frasier cake and Mel a hot chocolate and a huge slice of flan chocolat.
We continue to walk about and we decide, well probably I decided to see if we could get a little height to look down upon Chamonix. So we walked up Route De Pecles and then up Mnt de la Croix des Moussoux.
This route up was gentle at first then became steep quickly, I could see Mel was tired but she walked up regardless.
At the top of the road we turned we turn and left and head towards a river I could see marked on Google maps.
We reach the river marked on the map, disappointed. Hoping to see a gushing river and maybe a waterfall, it was merely a small trickle with a couple of rocks to hops across.
But still the views up here were great and a lovely hush and quietness.
We head back down and back into town to kill a little more time before our return bus arrives.
We stop in the Big Mountain Brewing Tap room, Mel has a coffee and I enjoy a flight of beers.
We walk back across the bridge back to the Bus stop to wait for our bus.
Loved these funny little electric buses that were buzzing about the town.
We ride the bus back to Annecy.
After our nap back at the hotel, we head back out to find dinner.
We look about the town again looking for something to eat.
The lights over the lake lake were shimmering and giving it a lovely glow in the evening.
We settle for burger and fries from the Roster Annecy Centre, then we head back to the hotel for the night.
Day Three: 1st May 2024 Day in Annecy
I wake up and walk into Annecy to PAUL coffee shop again for coffee and pastries.
Today is May the 1st and a bank holiday. There is a police presence in town as per usual on this bank holiday unions have a march. We walked by and all seemed quiet and no trouble.
There were people selling lily of the valley everywhere and the hotel even gave us some to celebrate the Bank Holiday.
On May 1, 1560, King Charles IX received a bouquet of lily of the valley while traveling in the Drôme region. Conquered, Charles IX decided to offer lily of the valley to each lady of the court every spring.
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| A lily of the valley seller. |
We made it back down to the Lake and pay for a cruise of the lake at Compagnie des Bateaux d'Annecy.
A hour and a half cruise costs us €18 each.
When you board there is a QR code we missed that directs you to a English commentary. But like I said we missed this and listened to French the whole trip.
The boat leaves Annecy and what amazing views in every direction, The lake glistening in the sun and the majestic mountains towering above.
The boat hugs the left bank as we go around the lake, so I suggest sitting on the left is best.
We pass Chavoire and Pensieres.
Next we are passing Menthon Saint-Bernard.
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| Menthon-Saint-Bernard Castle up upon the Hill. |
The first fortress was erected in the 10th century, around 923; it was originally a simple wooden guard post, built on a promontory dominating the ancient Roman road and Lake Annecy. The present buildings were constructed between the 13th and 19th centuries.
Bernard of Menthon (St Bernard), the patron saint of skiers, was born in the castle in the 11th century (1008). He later founded the hospice at the Great St. Bernard Pass and abbeys in the high mountains.
From 1180 on, the castle has been occupied by the Menthon family. The origin of the family is uncertain but they came from Burgundy and acquired a degree of feudal power. After their arrival, they constructed the three big square towers.
In the 15th century, Nicod de Menthon was ambassador to France of the Duke Amédée de Savoie, then Governor of Nice and admiral of the naval fleet sent by the Council of Florence to Constantinople.
During the Renaissance, the medieval fortress was transformed into a sumptuous residence, seat of the Barony of Menthon. Apartments took the place of the round walk between the towers and the Menthon family bought a large quantity of furniture.
The general appearance of the castle was unchanged until 1740, when several alterations were carried out to increase comfort. A suite of spacious light rooms was added onto the side facing the lake, comprising the dining room and the grand hall of 100 square metres (1,100 sq ft) giving a view of the lake from its four windows.
In the 19th century, between 1860 and 1890, the castle was restyled (consolidation, raising of walls, adding of turrets, creation of a half-timbered gallery in the inner courtyard). by the count, René de Menthon, a fervent disciple of Viollet-le-Duc, who gave the château the appearance it has today.
François de Menthon, father of the present count, was a lawyer and member of the Resistance who represented France at the Nuremberg Trials. He worked for the creation of a united Europe and was Minister of Justice under De Gaulle.
We are now passing Tallories.
Tallories famous hotel in the village is the Abbaye de Talloires: its famous visitors include Mark Twain, Paul Cezanne, Jean Reno and Bruce Willis.
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| View on our right to Château de Duingt |
We pass Agnon and Balmettes on the left.
Les Balmettes is known for the Gothic Revival-style Basilica of the Visitation, featuring an imposing marble interior and Lake Annecy views from the bell tower. A former seminary, the 17th-century Conservatoire d’Art et d’Histoire displays an art collection and houses the interactive Musée du Film d’Animation, showcasing puppets and early projectors. Take-out pizzerias and classic bistros dot the streets.
Above the mountain tops were people paragliding, now that does look fun. Imagine the views!
We reach the end of the lake and now turn to hug the right bank and pass Chaparon.
We pass Bredannaz.
We reach the pretty Château de Duingt.
It is sometimes called "Château Ruphy" or even "Château de Duingt" which is a mistake because the locality has two other castles.
Located on a rocky islet off a point that sort of separates Lake Annecy in two, now linked to the rest of the town by a causeway, it was originally a house strong whose lords, belonging to the family of Guin, were vassals of the counts of Geneva. The fortress made it possible to control the navigation between the northern and southern parts of the lake but also the road linking Geneva to Moûtiers. In 1530, Châteauvieux was ceded to Philippe de Savoie-Nemours, Count of Geneva and Duke of Nemours, and it remained the property of the younger branch of the House of Savoy until 1659.
The princes of Savoy owned it then until 1681. From 1698, Châteauvieux became the property of the Marquis de Sales, who undertook its transformation into a residential château, the work spanning nearly a century.
After the Revolution, the estate was sold as national property and eventually fell to Baron Scipion Ruphy. Through one of his daughters, the castle soon became the property of the Certeau family. The descendants still own it today.
Remodeled in the 18th and 19th centuries, the château takes the form of a dwelling dominated by a tower endowed with crenellations and battlements in the 19th century, according to the neo-medieval fashion of the time. A tower with loopholes from the 12th century has however been preserved. As for the main building, now lit by many windows, it was decorated with a watchtower and equipped with a square tower overlooking a porch.
The beautiful interior decorations and the roofs have been recently renovated, and beautifully landscaped gardens with terraces surround the castle. A pavilion with landing stage also contributes to the singular nobility of the site, listed in the Inventory, and which inspired many artists, in particular Paul Cézanne, because of its location, overlooking the lake.
Further round we are passing Sévrier.
Sevrier has both agricultural land and a forest mainly made up of deciduous trees (the fir trees were decimated by the bark beetle ). In terms of hydrology, the town is only crossed by a short stream, the Trois Fontaines stream , which joins the lake not far from the southern limit. In addition, a second stream, the Aloua , does not cross Sevrier but marks its limit with the commune of Saint-Jorioz to the south. Like the previous one, the latter flows into Lake Annecy, still on the boundary between the two communes.
We are now heading back into Annecy.
We disembark and head back into Town.
We head around the Lake anti clockwise to Le Petit Port.
Here are Le Petit Port, I finally get to have my wild swim in the lake, I've been dreaming of. It was a little chilly but what a glorious view whilst you swim. Quite a few others swimming here too!
Here at Le Petit Port there are steps to help you into the water and a slide into the water.
We walk back to the hotel for a nap, and head out later to eat.
We end up back at La Galejade for dinner, Mel has the Spaghetti and meatballs. I have the Reblochon Tartiflete. This was amazing, going to have to see if I can find this cheese here back home and give it a go making it myself.
We head back to the hotel for the night.
Day Four: 2nd May 2024 Day trip to Lyon, France.
Again we awake and I head out for coffee and pastries for breakfast. Then we head over to the bus station to catch the prebooked Flixbus to Lyon. Today was forecast was heavy rain, so it made sense to spend it in the city where there is the chance to duck into places to keep dry. The bus ride is 1hr 50 minutes.
We arrive at the bus station in Lyon Gare and we take a while to work out how the hell we are supposed to get out and into town.
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| Statue of the République |
We walk out into Place Carnot
The Place Carnot is at the end of the Presqu'île, near the Perrache railway station. Bordered by the Rue de Condé, it can be accessed by the Rue Victor-Hugo, through the Rue Henri IV and Rue Auguste Comte. To the south, it follows the Cours de Verdun and the Perrache Multimodal Hub, a major public transit hub linked to the railway station. Traboules lead to the Cours Charlemagne, either from the lobby of the Perrache railway station, or through underneath.
We head up Rue Victor Hugo to Place Bellecour.
Place Bellecour is a large square in the centre of Lyon, France, to the north of the Ainay district. Measuring 312 m by 200 m (6.2 ha or 15 acres),it is one of the largest open squares (without any patches of greenery or trees) in Europe, and the third biggest square in France, behind the Place des Quinconces in Bordeaux (12.6 ha) and the Place de la Concorde in Paris (8.6 ha). It is also the largest pedestrian square in Europe: vehicles are allowed on the Place de la Concorde and Place des Quinconces.
In the middle is an equestrian statue of King Louis XIV by François-Frédéric Lemot (1825). Another statue, representing the Petit Prince and Antoine de Saint-Exupéry, is at the west end of the square. The square also has two pavilions, housing the tourist information office of Lyon and an art gallery.
The square is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
I've seen pictures of this square and sadly on my visit the statue is boarded up!
We make our way out of Place Bellecour and over Pont Bonaparte.
Ahead up high sits Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière which we are heading for.
Lyon formerly spelled in English as Lyons, is the third-largest city of France.
Lyon sits on two rivers, The River Soane and the River Rhone. We are now crossing the Soane on the Bonaparte Bridge.
We walk around and find the Funicular up the hillside and buy our tickets up.
A funicular is basically a railway on a steep incline and in Lyon the funiculars take you high above Lyon. There used to be 5 funicular railways, but today only 2 remain (Funicular Fourvière and Funicular Saint-Just). Both start at Saint-Jean.
One takes you to Notre Dame de Fourvière and the other to Saint-Just with a stop at the Théâtre Romain ( the ancient Roman amphitheatre). I took the one to Notre Dame. It was my starting point and from there I walked down to the Roman amphitheatre and then to Vieux Ville.
We step off the funicular and walk up the hill to visit the Lugdunum Théâtres Romains de Fourviére.
The ancient theater of Lugdunum is one of the main Roman monuments visible in Lyon . It backs onto the Fourvière hill , below its summit, which placed it near the centre of the Roman colony . Built at the beginning of the Empire , perhaps under Augustus , it was enlarged at the end of the 1st century or the beginning of the 2nd century , and could then accommodate up to 10,000 spectators.
Abandoned at the end of the Roman Empire, it was transformed into a quarry and heavily damaged then, completely buried in the Middle Ages , it fell into oblivion. It was spotted by chance at the end of the 19th century , then completely cleared and restored from 1933. Along with its neighbours the ancient Odeon , the pseudo-sanctuary of Cybele and the Gallo-Roman museum, it forms a remarkable archaeological site, emblematic of ancient Lyon.
The theatre was built at the level of the Minimes plateau below the Fourvière plateau . We have no historical or epigraphic document which allows us to specify its date of construction. It took place in two stages, which archaeologists distinguish for lack of better clues by the construction techniques and the materials used.
According to the archaeologists Pierre Wuilleumier and Amable Audin who excavated it, a first theatre was built against the side of the hill. With two series of stands crowned by a false semi-circular portico , it offers a maximum of 5,700 seats . The first publication of Pierre Wuilleumier's excavations places its construction in the third third of the 1st century , perhaps under Nero . During the expansion of the theatre, the portico was demolished and its debris was used to support the new stands. The examination of the base fragments of columns and capitals extracted from these spoils led the archaeologist Amable Audin to review the dating proposed by Wuilleumier: the limestone used came from the quarries of Provence, already exploited in the 1st century BC . BC , the bases of lathe-moulded columns are of an archaic type and certain decorative details of the capitals are found in monuments dating from the beginning of the reign of Augustus , such as the arch of Glanum , the arch of Augustus of Rimini , that of Susa , the temple of Augustus of Barcelona . Although these clues are somewhat approximate dates, Audin places the construction of the theatre during Augustus' stays in Lugdunum, in the years 16, 15 and 14 BC. 1 . This date, approximately 15 BC. BC, places it among the first theatres built in Roman Gaul with that of Arles 4 . This dating is consistent with the impulse given by Augustus who made the theatre the obligatory public monument of the urban and civic model of the new Roman colonies . But according to Jean-Claude Golvin , this Augustan dating, although possible, is not certain, and the archaeological elements observed only prove a construction from the Julio-Claudian period. .
Between the 1st century and the 2nd century , the theatre underwent major renovations: the portico behind the stage wall was rebuilt and a third series of stands was added at the top of the cavea, bringing its estimated capacity to 10,000 seats. , which makes it second in size after the Autun theatre.
Support vault for the upper tiers, with its brick levels.
But the dating of these works is not as certain as it was asserted by the first archaeologists. The walls of this extension are characterized by a different device , an opus mixtum , made of small blocks of schist alternating in the upper parts with layers of double-bed bricks. According to the presence of these levels, Amable Audin places the expansion under Trajan (98-117) or Hadrian (117-138) 2 . However, Audin's chronology, based solely on this use of brick in the Roman monuments of Lyon, has since been completely refuted by Armand Desbat. Pierre Quoniam 's proposal in 1959 to identify a statue head found against the stage wall with a portrait of Hadrian and to make it another dating indicator was also rejected in 2006.
Bernard Mandy, director of the municipal archaeological service in the 1980s, distinguishes three phases of construction, and considers that from its origin the theatre had the influence on the land that we currently observe. In the absence of new studies and stratigraphic surveys, the chronology of the theatre remains poorly defined and the dating of its extension under Hadrian, still frequently cited at the beginning of the 21st century , remains hypothetical.
The hypothesis of the research collective of the Topographic Atlas of Lugdunum distinguishes two states: a first theatre of the Augustan era, the first state described by Pierre Wuilleumier , which functions with the so-called forum of Plancus, and a second state with a restructuring of the building under the Julio-Claudians which reached its current extent with the three rows of stands. The theatre then underwent significant renovations until the 3rd century.
We walk further up the hill from the Roman Theatre and up to the Basilica of Notre Dame of Fourvière.
The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière is a minor basilica in Lyon, France. It was built with private funds between 1872 and 1896 in a dominant position overlooking the city. The site it occupies was once the Roman forum of Trajan, the forum vetus (old forum), thus its name (as an inverted corruption of the French Vieux-Forum).
Fourvière is dedicated to the Virgin Mary, to whom is attributed the salvation of the city of Lyon from the bubonic plague that swept Europe in 1643. Each year in early December (December 8, day of the Immaculate Conception), Lyon thanks the Virgin for saving the city by lighting candles throughout the city, in what is called the Fête des Lumières or the Festival of Lights.The Virgin is also credited with saving the city a number of other times, such as from a Cholera epidemic in 1832, and from Prussian invasion in 1870.
During the Franco-Prussian War (1870–1871), Prussian forces, having taken Paris, were progressing south towards Lyon. Their halt and retreat were, once again, attributed by the Church to the intercession of the Virgin Mary.
Speculating on the reasons for the construction of such an elaborate and expensive building, one author makes the statement that: "The reaction to the communes of Paris and Lyon were triumphalist monuments, the Sacré-Coeur of Montmartre and the basilica of Fourvière, dominating both cities. These buildings were erected with private funds, as gigantic ex-votos, to thank God for victory over the socialists and in expiation of the sins of modern France."
Perched on top of the Fourvière hill, the basilica looms impressively over the city of Lyon, from where it can be seen from many vantage points; not unintentionally, the Basilica of Fourvière has become a symbol of the city. The Basilica, which offers guided tours and contains a Museum of Sacred Art, receives 2 million visitors annually. At certain times, members of the public may access the basilica's north tower for a spectacular 180-degree view of Lyon and its suburbs. On a clear day, Mont Blanc, the highest point in Europe, can be seen in the distance.
The design of the basilica, by Pierre Bossan, draws from both Romanesque and Byzantine architecture, two non-Gothic models that were unusual choices at the time. It has four main towers, and a bell tower topped with a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary. It features fine mosaics, superb stained glass, and a crypt of Saint Joseph.
Fourvière actually contains two churches, one on top of the other. The upper sanctuary is very ornate, while the lower is a much simpler design. Work on the triumphant basilica was begun in 1872 and finished in 1884. Finishing touches in the interior were not completed until as late as 1964.
Bossan's first sketches for the basilica seem to date from 1846. At the time he was in Palermo.
The basilica has acquired the local nickname of "the upside-down elephant", because the building looks like the body of an elephant and the four towers look like its legs.
Fourvière has always been a popular place of pilgrimage. There has been a shrine at Fourvière dedicated to Our Lady since 1170. The chapel and parts of the building have been rebuilt at different times over the centuries, the most recent major works being in 1852 when the former steeple was replaced by a tower surmounted by a golden statue of the Virgin Mary sculpted by Joseph-Hugues Fabisch (1812–1886).
The interior of this Basilica is absolutely stunning!
We leave the Basilica to have a look at the outside.
Across from the Basilica we can see the Metallic tower of Fourvière.
The Tour métallique de Fourvière ("Metallic tower of Fourvière"), a landmark of Lyon, France, is a steel framework tower which bears a striking resemblance to the Eiffel Tower, which predates it by three years. With a height of 101 m (331 ft), previously 85.9 m (282 ft) before installation of the TV broadcasting antenna, and weighing 210 tons, the "metallic tower" was built between 1892 and 1894.
During the Exposition universelle of 1914 in Lyon it had a restaurant and an elevator capable of taking 22 people up to the summit. Although used as an observation tower until November 1, 1953, nowadays it serves as a television tower and is not accessible to the public. At 372 metres (1220'), it is the highest point in Lyon.
There are fabulous views across Lyon from up here, I imagine even better on a clear day.
Economically, Lyon is a major centre for banking, chemical, pharmaceutical and biotech industries. The city contains a significant software industry with a particular focus on video games; in recent years it has fostered a growing local start-up sector. The home of renowned universities and higher education schools, Lyon is the second-largest student city in France, with a university population of nearly 200,000 students within the Metropolis of Lyon. Lyon hosts the international headquarters of Interpol, the International Agency for Research on Cancer, as well as Euronews. According to the Globalization and World Rankings Research Institute, Lyon is considered a Beta city, as of 2018. It ranked second in France and 40th globally in Mercer's 2019 liveability rankings.
Fernand Braudel remarked, "Historians of Lyon are not sufficiently aware of the bi-polarity between Paris and Lyon, which is a constant structure in French development...from the late Middle Ages to the Industrial Revolution". In the late 15th century, the fairs introduced by Italian merchants made Lyon the economic counting house of France. Even the Bourse (treasury), built in 1749, resembled a public bazaar where accounts were settled in the open air. When international banking moved to Genoa, then Amsterdam, Lyon remained the banking centre of France.
During the Renaissance, the city's development was driven by the silk trade, which strengthened its ties to Italy. Italian influence on Lyon's architecture is still visible among historic buildings. In the late 1400s and 1500s Lyon was also a key centre of literary activity and book publishing, both of French writers (such as Maurice Scève, Antoine Heroet, and Louise Labé) and of Italians in exile (such as Luigi Alamanni and Gian Giorgio Trissino).
Fernand Braudel remarked, "Historians of Lyon are not sufficiently aware of the bi-polarity between Paris and Lyon, which is a constant structure in French development...from the late Middle Ages to the Industrial Revolution". In the late 15th century, the fairs introduced by Italian merchants made Lyon the economic counting house of France. Even the Bourse (treasury), built in 1749, resembled a public bazaar where accounts were settled in the open air. When international banking moved to Genoa, then Amsterdam, Lyon remained the banking centre of France.
During the Renaissance, the city's development was driven by the silk trade, which strengthened its ties to Italy. Italian influence on Lyon's architecture is still visible among historic buildings. In the late 1400s and 1500s Lyon was also a key centre of literary activity and book publishing, both of French writers (such as Maurice Scève, Antoine Heroet, and Louise Labé) and of Italians in exile (such as Luigi Alamanni and Gian Giorgio Trissino).
The convention was not the only target within Lyon during the French Revolution. After the Convention faded into history, the French Directory appeared and days after the 4 September 1797 Coup of 18 Fructidor, a Directory's commissioner was assassinated in Lyon.
The city became an important industrial town in the 19th century. In 1831 and 1834, the canuts (silk workers) of Lyon staged two major uprisings for better working conditions and pay. In 1862, the first of Lyon's extensive network of funicular railways began operation.
During World War II, Lyon was a centre for the occupying Nazi forces, including Klaus Barbie, the infamous "Butcher of Lyon". However, the city was also a stronghold of the French Resistance, the many secret passages known as traboules, enabled people to escape Gestapo raids. On 3 September 1944, Lyon was liberated by the 1st Free French Division and the Forces Françaises de l'Intérieur. The city is now home to a Resistance museum.
We pop into the café here at the Basilica and order a Jambo and Fromage baguette and coffee.
We pop into the gift shop next door. The lady in the shop was going on about something in French, but gave up and just gestured that we look around. Then someone else tried to enter the shop and she spoke to them in French too and I heard one word I understood. 'Ferme ', I said to Mel ah they're closed, we apologised and left.
We made our way back to the funicular to make our way back down the hill.
Back down we made pour way to Place Saint-Jean.
Here standing proudly is Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste.
Lyon Cathedral (French: Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste de Lyon) is a Roman Catholic church located on Place Saint-Jean in central Lyon, France. The cathedral is dedicated to Saint John the Baptist, and is the seat of the Archbishop of Lyon. Begun in 1180 on the ruins of a 6th-century church, it was completed in 1476. Despite its long construction time, it has a relatively consistent architectural style. In 1998, the building, along with other historic sites in the centre of Lyon, was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
The cathedral was founded by Saint Pothinus and Saint Irenaeus, the first two bishops of Lyon. The cathedral is also known as a "Primatiale" because in 1079 the Pope granted to the archbishop of Lyon the title of Primate of All the Gauls with the legal supremacy over the principal archbishops of the kingdom. It is located in the heart of the old town (Vieux Lyon) and it backs up to the Saône river, with a large plaza in front of it and a metro stop nearby providing easy access to and from the city centre.
Patiens of Lyon, who was bishop around 450 AD, built a new cathedral, dedicated to Saint Stephen. Later, in the seventh century, a baptistery dedicated to Saint John was constructed as an accessory building to the church. The Church of St. Croix was also near. This location later became the site of the Cathédrale Saint-Jean-Baptiste.
In 1245, the cathedral hosted the First Council of Lyon.
In 1819 J. M. W. Turner sketched a study of the cathedral as seen from the heights of the Fourvière Hill. Edgar Degas used the cathedral for the setting of his painting "Ceremony of Ordination at Lyon Cathedral."
Each December, Lyon holds an annual Festival of Lights. The tradition dates to 1643, when on 8 December the people of Lyon would place a lit candle in the window, a custom still maintained by many residents to this day. During the festival, a choreographed lighting display appears on the façade of the cathedral.
We walk on down Rue du Bouef through the quaint back streets.
We pass the Museum of Cinema and miniatures.
We pop in a few of the tourist shops along this street.
Next we pass Le Petit Musee De Glignol.
An exhibition of puppets from around the world as well as the history of the creation of Guignol through several animated scenes.
Guignol is the main character in a French puppet show which has come to bear his name. It represents the workers in the silk industry of France.
We make our way over to walk alongside the River Saône.
We cross the Pont de la Feuillee and make our way to Place des Terreaux.
The Place des Terreaux is a square located in the centre of Lyon, France, on the Presqu'île between the Rhône and the Saône rivers, at the foot of the hill of La Croix-Rousse in the 1st arrondissement. It borders both the Hôtel de Ville and Musée des Beaux-Arts de Lyon. The square belongs to the zone classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The Fontaine Bartholdi is a fountain sculpted by Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi and realised in 1889 by Gaget & Gautier. It was erected at the Place des Terreaux, in the 1st arrondissement of Lyon, in September 1892.
On 20 April 1857, the Bordeaux city council decided to hold a competition to create a fountain for Place Quinconces. Frédéric Bartholdi, then aged 23, won the contest. However, the city hall of Bordeaux decided not to carry out his project. After Bartholdi had made the Statue of Liberty in New York in 1886, the mayor of Bordeaux contacted him, but his new project was canceled after much hesitation. It was finally achieved in 1888, but it was deemed as too expensive and therefore was sold to Lyon. It was unveiled as part of the Exposition Universelle (1889). The fountain was eventually put at the Place des Terreaux and is currently still there.
The fountain depicts France as a female (Marianne) seated on a chariot controlling the four great rivers of France, represented by wildly rearing and plunging horses, highly individualized but symmetrically arranged, with bridles and reins of water weeds. The fountain weighs 21 tons and is made of lead supported by a frame of iron and was presented at the Exposition Universelle of 1889. It has been classified as monument historique since 29 September 1995.
The Hôtel de Ville is the city hall of Lyon, France, and one of the largest historic buildings in the city. It is located between the Place des Terreaux and the Place de la Comédie, in front of the Opera Nouvel. Built in the late 17th century, the building has been classified as a Monument historique since 12 July 1886. As part of the Presqu'île district, the building was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List alongside other districts in the centre of Lyon, bearing testimony to Lyon's long history as an important European.
During the cold winter of 2012, the fountain situated in Place des Terreaux froze.
We leave and start to walk up Rue Terme to see the Canuts Mural.
This road just seems to go up and up, Mel is starting to look tired after days of walking. In hindsight we should have got the Metro up.
After much, much climbing we reach the Mur des Canuts.
'Le Mur des Canuts'La Croix-Rousse, Lyon, France
Lyon's "Wall of the Silk Weavers" is one of the largest murals in Europe.
PAINTED IN THE TROMPE-L’OEIL STYLE (trick the eye), “Le Mur des Canuts” is a gigantic mural depicting ordinary life in the La Croix-Rousse neighbourhood of Lyon, France. Hyper realistic in imagery and packed with intricate details, this massive mural is considered one of the largest displays of public art in Europe.
Cité Création, a group of mural painters, initially created the mural in 1987 to pay homage to the history of the neighbourhood. La Croix-Rousse was the economic nerve centre of Lyon’s silk industry during the 19th century. The word canut in French means “weaver” and refers to the silk weavers who lived and worked in La Croix-Rousse. In the late 19th century, nearly half of Lyon’s working population was employed by the industry.
Although La Croix-Rousse is no longer the hive of silk weaving activity, the quarter still takes pride in its moniker of being “the hill that works.” It’s this indomitable spirit that led La Croix-Rousse’s silk workers to revolt against the silk merchants in 1831, protesting their harsh working conditions.
Since its inception, the mural has been updated twice, once in 1997 and then again in 2013, keeping in tune with the transformations of the neighbourhood. The mural is filled with colourful buildings, high windows rendered in pastel shades, a stone stairway, a small theatre Guignol, and of course, a silk shop. The landscape of the painting also features several Croix-roussiens, the inhabitants of La Croix-Rousse. Life-like and three-dimensional in effect, this mural is an integral part of the architectural heritage of present-day Lyon.
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| How it looked before, amazing transformation. |
We walk to the Henon Metro, so we didn't have to walk back down, ad I felt some the area we walked through felt a little sketchy with shady people hanging about.
This is the only Metro I've been on that climbs a steep hill, you could see the steepness out of the windows. It uses a rack and pinion system much like the Snowdon Railway in Wales.
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| City Hall |
Back down we leave the Metro by the Place Louis Pradel opposite the Opera National de Lyon.
Louis Pradel Square (Place Louis Pradel) is the pleasant city space located next to the Opera House in Lyon France.
The attractive square features a modern fountain.
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| Opera De National Lyon. |
We make our way through the city passing big name shops.
We pass Fontaine des Jacobins on our right.
The Place des Jacobins is a square located in the 2nd arrondissement of Lyon. It was created in 1556 and a fountain was added in 1856. The square belongs to the zone classified as World Heritage Site by UNESCO. According to Jean Pelletier, this square is one of the most famous in Lyon, because of its location in the center of the 2nd arrondissement and its heavy traffic, as 12 streets lead here. The square, particularly its architecture and its features, has changed its appearance many times throughout years.
We reach the Olympique Lyon Football shop and pop in to get my son George a gift. He's a big fan of all football.
We are West Ham fans and we'd forgotten that our Benrahma had made the switch to Lyon.
We walk on passing through Place Antonin Poncet and its fountain.
The square was designed by landscaper Michel Bourne in 1990.
The square has a rectangular form from east to west. To the south, it is bordered by the post hotel with an architecture composed of long horizontal lines, which replaced in 1938 the Hôpital de la Charité, was designed under the supervision of architect Michel Roux Spitz between 1935 and 1938, in an almost identical style to the classical 18th century facades of the north of the square. The building is adorned with a 250-m2 wall painting by Louis Bouquet which evokes the "worldwide influence of Lyon through the exchange and waves". Around its entrances, there are bas-reliefs sculpted by Georges Salendre, JH Bardey and Renard. In the north, the buildings, made by JF Desarnod, have Lyon-styled facades and a ground floor composed of trades. The western part of the square, elevated (50 cm) in 1980, is bordered with rows of lime trees to the north and south and is the location of many events. There are lawns, fountains and benches.
The vegetation is mainly composed of horse chestnuts, maples and magnolias.
At the end of the square, next to the river, there is a giant bunch of flowers, that is a work of contemporary art created by Korean Jeong-Hwa Choi, entitled The Flower Tree.
FIRST CREATED IN 2003, THE massive bouquet known as the Flower Tree may not seem to fit the tenor of the historic French city of Lyon, but that didn’t stop it from being permanently rooted in place.
The overgrown technicolour plant was the work of Korean artist Jeong-Hwa Choi. Choi created the piece to take part in the 7th biennial festival of Contemporary Art in Lyon. The colossal work consists of 85 individual plastic flowers, each as large as a car door, grouped together as though grown like a tree. The effect is that of a rainbow dome of whimsical flora. While such a display fits right in at a modern art festival, it stands out like a sore thumb against traditionalist medieval buildings and gothic churches, so when it was moved permanently to one of Europe’s largest historic squares, many folks raised any eyebrow. However the Flower Tree has remained and whether you feel as though its a modernist eyesore or a welcome splash of colour in an otherwise drab town, it does not seem to be going anywhere soon.
We walk down to the Rhone River before walking on back towards the Train Station.
We make it back and try to find where to catch our return bus, pretty certain we were in the right place but no boards to confirm this. The fact the bus was late made me very nervous that I was in the wrong place. But eventually it arrived half hour late due to traffic and we make our way back to the hotel. Back at the hotel, we have a rest before nipping out just around the corner to a Thai restaurant, before bed.
Day Five: 3rd May 2024 Travel to Geneva, Switzerland
I awoke and went to get coffee and pastries as usual for breakfast, then saw it was Market Day in Annecy. So we had breakfast and had time to look around the market before we caught our Bla Bla Car bus to Geneva.
In the heart of the old quarters, browse around the stalls in this typical market. On Tuesdays, local produce is on sale at the food market. On Fridays and Sundays, the market is bigger, with manufactured and textile goods.
I'm not a fan of olives but these smelt amazing as I leant over to take this photo!
We made our way to the bus station and caught the bus to Geneva.
The bus dropped us back at the airport and we waited here for the free shuttle to our Holiday Inn Express. We had a half hour wait and our room was ready. The hotel gave us our free travelcards for the city that you get free if you stay in Geneva and instructions on how to get into the city by public transport.
We caught the tram at Blandonnet stop and travelled to Bel-Air stop.
Here at Bel-Air is the Tour de l'ÃŽle.
Tour de l'Ile (Tower On The Island), Geneva
One of the main cultural and architectural heritage sites of Geneva, Tour de l'Ile (“Tower On The Island”) is what's left of the fortified Castle on the Island completed in 1219 by the Bishop Aymé de Grandson, who once ruled the city as a Prince of the Holy Roman Empire. The castle played an important role in the defense of the city and was originally built to provide additional control over the strategic Rhone crossing. The castle was located on the small island which for many years was the only checkpoint en route between northern and southern Europe, thanks to the Island Bridge spanning the river banks. Julius Caesar, who met Divico, King of the Helvetii, here in 58 BC, had this bridge destroyed.
In 1842, renowned watchmaker Vacheron Constantin moved in the Tower On The Island replacing the previous tenants, the Geneva police department. His company remained here until 1875. After nearly a 140 year hiatus, in 2012, Vacheron Constantin firm re-established their quarters here again.
There has been a clock, in one form or another, on the top of the tower since 1538. Today it has been restored to the appearance it had when the first mechanism was replaced in 1680, complete with the Latin motto, "Post Tenebras Lux" (After Darkness, Light) on the dial.
The entire tower underwent extensive renovations, as well as archaeological excavation of its foundations, in 1898, and again in 1938 and 1957. Presently, several floors of the building are occupied by private apartments. On the right, just by the main entrance, there is a statue of the Genevan patriot Philibert Berthelier, who was beheaded in 1519 for defying the Dukes of Savoy; above him is a most interesting sundial: a Noon Mark sundial, with an analemma carved into the masonry. This particular type of sundial shows you when it's noon, any day of the year.
We walked on over towards Lake Geneva (Lac Leman) and can see the Jet d'Eau de Genève from a distance.
The Jet d'Eau is a large fountain in Geneva, Switzerland and is one of the city's most famous landmarks, being featured on the city's official tourism web site and on the official logo for Geneva's hosting of group stage matches at UEFA Euro 2008. Situated where Lake Geneva exits as the Rhône, it is visible throughout the city and from the air, even when flying over Geneva at an altitude of ten kilometres (33,000 ft).
Five hundred litres (130 US gal) of water per second are jetted to an altitude of 140 metres (460 ft) by two 500 kW pumps, operating at 2,400 V, consuming one megawatt of electricity and costing 510,000 CHF per year. The water leaves the ten-centimetre (4 in) nozzle at a speed of 200 km/h (55 m/s). At any given moment, there are about 7,000 L (1,800 US gal) of water in the air. Unsuspecting visitors to the fountain—which can be reached via a stone jetty from the left bank of the lake—may be surprised to find themselves drenched after a slight change in wind direction.
The first Jet d'Eau was installed in 1886 at the Usine de la Coulouvrenière, a little further downstream from its present location. It was used as a safety valve for a hydraulic power network and could reach a height of about 30 metres (100 ft). In 1891, its aesthetic value was recognised and it was moved to its present location to celebrate the Federal Gymnastics Festival and the 600th anniversary of the Swiss Confederation, when it was operated for the first time. Its maximum height was about 90 metres (300 ft). The present Jet d'Eau was installed in 1951 in a partially submerged pumping station to pump lake water instead of city water.
We reach the famous Flower Clock of Geneva.
L'horloge fleurie, or the flower clock, is an outdoor flower clock located on the western side of Jardin Anglais park in Geneva, Switzerland.
Around 6,500 flowering plants and shrubs are used for the clock face. The plants are changed as the seasons change.
The clock was created in 1955 as a symbol of the city's watchmakers, and a dedication to nature.
Its second hand is the longest in the world, at 2.5 metres (8.2 ft). It was the largest flower clock in the world, with a diameter of 5 metres (16 ft), until the 2005 installation of a 15 metres (49 ft) one in Tehran, Iran.
There are loads of stalls out for the Weekends Geneva Marathon, thankfully it wasn't on when we visited.
Since 2003, the fountain has operated during the day all year round, except in case of frost or particularly strong wind. It also operates in the evenings between spring and autumn, when it is lit by a set of 21 lights consuming 9 kW.
On 25 August 2016, the fountain celebrated its 125th anniversary at its present location. Between 30 March and 11 June 2020, the jet was shut off while the city was under public health measures due to COVID-19.
The Jet d'Eau featured in the titles and cut scenes of the late 1960s British television series The Champions.
It was a little wet down near the fountain due to the wind, very impressive up close though.
Lake Geneva (or Lac Léman) is a crescent-shaped lake shared between France and Switzerland, and overlooked by the Alps. Geneva, the Swiss city at its southern tip, is a diplomatic hub with luxury shops and a cobbled old town. On the southern, French side, is the spa town and resort of Évian-les-Bains. The chic, palm-studded Swiss Riviera stretches along the north shore from Lausanne to Montreux.
We leave the lake behind and head into the city.
After the peace and quiet of the Alps, this seems like mayhem and urggh!!
We head off towards St Pierre Cathedral.
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| Poste de Police du Bourg de Four |
We walk through Place du Bourg-de-Four and look at the menus at the restaurants here. Switzerland is crazy expensive. We decide to leave the food for now and head to the Cathedral for now.
At the highest point of the Old Town, its towers offer a breath-taking panorama. And its vaults house the largest archaeological site north of the Alps.
Saint Pierre Cathedral in Geneva, Switzerland is the principal church of the Reformed Protestant Church of Geneva. Previously it was a Roman Catholic cathedral, having been converted in 1535. It is known as the adopted home church of John Calvin, one of the leaders of the Protestant Reformation. Inside the church is a wooden chair used by Calvin.
We walk around the outside of the Cathedral trying to find the entrance. We can hear bells ringing out, it appears to be the church below, Evangelisch-Lutherische Kirche in Genf.
We find the entrance to the Cathedral and enter.
Below the cathedral is a modern, well-interpreted, and accessible archaeological site that includes a 1st-century BC tomb of an ancient Allobrogian chieftain. An oppidum erected on the hill of Saint-Pierre allowed them to control the inland navigation on the Rhône.
Although this has been the site of a cathedral (a church that is the seat of a bishop) since the fourth century, the present building was begun under Arducius de Faucigny, the prince-bishop of the Diocese of Geneva, around 1160, in Gothic style. The interior of the cathedral is lined with fourth-century mosaics. The German painter Konrad Witz painted an altarpiece, the so-called St. Peter Altarpiece, for the cathedral in 1444, now in the Musée d'Art et d'Histoire, Geneva, which contains his composition, the Miraculous Draught of Fishes.
At the time of the Reformation, the interior of the large, cruciform, late-gothic church was stripped of its rood screen, side chapels, and all decorative works of art, except the stained glass, leaving a vast, plain interior that contrasts sharply with the interior of surviving medieval churches that remain Roman Catholic. A Neo-Classical main façade was added in the 18th century. In the 1890s, Genevans redecorated a large, side chapel adjacent to the cathedral's man doors in a polychrome, gothic revival style.
Theodore Beza, French Calvinist Protestant theologian, reformer and scholar, and successor to John Calvin, was buried at St. Pierre in 1605.
Built in the 12th century, underwent important transformations in the 16th century. During the time of the Reformation in 1535, the Cathedral became a place of Protestant worship. Visitors undaunted by climbing the 157 steps of the north tower are rewarded with an incredible panorama of the city and the lake.
We leave the Cathedral and walk down to Place du Bourg-de-Four.
We walk back down to the lake to find something to eat. We get burger and fries twice from a stall by the Lake. £31 yikes!!!
We walk into the city again and catch a bus to travel to see the United Nations Park. The bus got so far and the driver started shouting something in French. Everyone got off the bus, so we waited for the next bus, again we got on and thrown off. The bus after was the same. So back to reading the confusing bus map and I work out a different bus to roughly the same place.
We eventually reach the United Nations and the Broken chair out front.
The United Nations Office (UNO) at Geneva in Geneva, Switzerland, is one of the four major offices of the United Nations where numerous different UN agencies have a joint presence. The main UNOG administrative offices are located inside the Palais des Nations complex, which was originally constructed for the League of Nations between 1929 and 1938.
Besides United Nations administration, the Palais des Nations also hosts the offices for a number of programmes and funds such as the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), the United Nations Office for the Coordination of Humanitarian Affairs (OCHA) and the United Nations Economic Commission for Europe (ECE).
The United Nations and its specialized agencies, programmes and funds may have other offices or functions hosted outside the Palais des Nations, normally in office spaces provided by the Swiss Government.
UN specialised agencies and other UN entities with offices in Geneva hold bi-weekly briefings at the Palais des Nations, organized by the United Nations Information Service at Geneva.
The primary goals of the United Nations Organization (UNO) are to maintain global peace and security, to promote the well-being of the world's peoples, and to achieve these goals via international and friendly collaboration.
Broken Chair is a monumental sculpture in wood designed by Swiss artist Daniel Berset, and constructed by carpenter Louis Genève. It is constructed of 5.5 tons of wood and is 12 metres (39 feet) high.
It depicts a giant chair with a broken leg and stands across the street from the Palace of Nations, in Geneva. It symbolises opposition to land mines and cluster bombs, and acts as a reminder to politicians and diplomats visiting Geneva.
Broken Chair is an original idea and project of Paul Vermeulen, co-founder and director of Handicap International Switzerland. In October 1996, he commissioned the 10 meters high chair, with a torn-off leg, to be installed on the Place des Nations, motivated to try to get as many nations to sign Ottawa Treaty on landmines in December 1997. The sculpture was erected by Handicap International in front of the main entrance to the Palace of Nations in Geneva on the 18th of August 1997, where it was intended to remain for three months, until the signing of the Ottawa Treaty in December 1997 in Ottawa. Following ratification by 40 countries, the Treaty became effective as an instrument of international law on 1 March 1999.
The failure of many countries to sign the Treaty and the strong public support for the sculpture caused it to be left in place until 2005, when it was removed to allow extensive remodelling of the Place des Nations. After completion of the work, it was reinstalled in the same place in front of the United Nations Office at Geneva on 26 February 2007.
The reinstallation of Broken Chair in February 2007 was officially dedicated by Handicap International to support the signature of an international treaty on a ban on cluster munitions, which was signed in Oslo in December 2008.
The work was the property of the sculptor until 2004, when he transferred ownership to Handicap International.
We get a bus back to the train station and walk back to the lake to get some souvenirs.
We walk back through the busy noisy city pass all the big name stores, Rolex, Gucci, YSL and the like. This place just oozes money, but this doesn't impress me and neither has Geneva to be honest. This one day here is plenty.
We stop off in a chocolate shop, you can't come to Switzerland and not try the chocolate can you?
We stop at the CO-OP and buy some snacks to have back at the hotel.
We catch the tram back to the hotel and spend the night, before our flight home on Saturday the 4th. What a great holiday this has been!!
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