Eynsford to Farningham Kent circular 13th April 23

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On Thursday the 13th of April 2023 Pete and I drove to Eynsford and parked up for a short 2.75 mile walk between two beautiful Kent villages with a castle thrown in for good measure.

We park in the Village Hall Car Park after asking if its okay, only to find there is a free car park further on down the road.

We walk along High Street passing the Five Bells Pub, far too early for any pub to be open.

The Five Bells is first noted in a title deed of 1745. The Malt Shovel appears first in a will of 1743, described as a messuage and malt house. The first mention of the Plough was found in a notice of an auction sale of 1818.

Eynsford is first mentioned in writing in 864, as "Egenes homme". The derivation is unclear, but one possibility is that it represents "Ægen's river-meadow", from the Old English hamm "river-meadow, enclosure".

We pass the War Memorial and Village Sign.

The church is dedicated to St Martin. In about 1163, Thomas Becket is reputed to have excommunicated William de Eynsford, the owner of Eynsford castle. The excommunication was cancelled by King Henry II and the issue became part of the quarrel that led to Becket's murder in 1170.

The church at Eynsford is an exceptional early Norman church that was no doubt built by one of the Archbishop's principal knights, William, son of Ralph, son of Unspac, in the years around 1100.

John Wesley is thought to have preached here: he was a friend of the then vicar of Shoreham, the next village along the valley. The Wesley Stone by the bridge commemorates the spot.

Sadly the church is locked so we leave to walk over to the Ford.

We walk over to the Ford that the River Darent flows over.

Just before the bridge is the Riverside Tea Room is a friendly tea room next to Eynsford's ford offering a selection of freshly made food and great coffee. It offers breakfasts, light lunches and a range of drinks and cakes.

The river is in full flood, a lot higher than I've seen in the past.

We cross the bridge and stop to take in the view back to the Parish Church.

We pass more roadside parking here on Riverside, pass The Plough Inn and walk on up the road.

Further up the road we turn right onto Sparepenny Lane.

After a bit of road walking we take a footpath that runs alongside the Lane.

We have views down to Eynsford Castle and the Village Hall.

Sparepenny Lane has more than a few pennies, the lane is full of expensive looking properties.

We reach the end of the Lane and turn right into High Street at Farningham.

Farningham is believed to be home to Neolithic history – flint and other tools have been discovered and can be found in the Dartford Museum. The Romans occupied the general area after their invasion in the 1st century AD and, along with large evidence of habitation down the road in Lullingstone, there is also evidence of Roman habitation in Farningham. Three farmhouses and three villas have been unearthed. Charles Dickens was a visitor during his time for the trout fishing that the Darent provided.

The Domesday Book records that before the Norman conquest, Farningham was owned by an Anglo Saxon thane called Alstan.

In the nineteenth century Farningham was adopted as the assumed surname of Marianne Farningham, a religious writer and editor, who was born here.

Used only for WW1 there used to be an airfield used by the RAF for emergency landings.

We turn to look at The Mill here in Farningham.

On the left is Bridge Cottage, built in Gothic style in the late 19thC, and Mill Cottages dating from the seventeen hundreds. Ahead of you stands Farningham Mill, "a corn mill built on a most expensive mechanical construction" by the Colyers in the 18th century to replace Anthony Roper's mill of 1610. The Domesday Book noted a water mill in the Manor of "Femingehame" in 1087. In 2013 the mill was restored with some new-build houses on the left.

Across the road is The Lion Hotel.

The Lion has been a popular spot in Farningham since the 16th Century when it was the entertainment centre of the village. Even in the 18th Century the then named Black Lyon, was the venue for all the important village meetings. Such status in the village meant that The Lion was once paid a visit by Charles Dickens whilst on a trout fishing trip.

This magnificent structure at the heart of Farningham Village sits opposite the historic Lion Hotel. It is thought to have been built between 1740 and 1770 although an exact date is not known.

The structure is unique and its purpose has been puzzled over. Once thought to be a folly or the remains of the north side of a medieval bridge, the structure is in fact a cattle screen, built to prevent cattle from wandering downstream whilst crossing the ford.

The Farningham Cattle Screen is the only one in the country to have been constructed in such an ornate way and would probably have been built whilst the Hanger family owned Farningham Manor.

Most cattle screens are constructed in a simple manner with a wooden beam and hanging gates which allow for debris or high water levels to pass through easily but prevent cattle from travelling up or downstream.

Whilst the structure in Farningham contains the hanging gates, the flamboyant nature would suggest that the screen was built to show how wealthy William Hanger was to all who travelled through Farningham.

We walk on further up the road to reach St Peters and St Pauls Church.

The Church of St. Peter & St. Paul which lies in the heart of the Village was built between 1225 and 1245, on the site of where there is thought to have been an early Saxon church. The chancel was probably the original church with the nave being built some 100 years later - and subsequently the tower that dates from the 15th century was further heightened and crenelated in 1830.

Sadly this church was also locked up and was closed.

Walking on we pass The Pied Bull Pub.

The pub was originally built in 1612 as a coaching inn on the main road between London and Dover. Over the years the pub has changed and in its current form has much to offer.

We take a footpath that takes us into Oliver Crescent and then onto Eynsford Road and a footpath that runs alongside.

We could see back up to Sparepenny Lane and the route we took earlier.

We arrive back at the car, passing we walk down to Eynsford Castle, which was sadly closed due to some unsafe conditions they are working on. So I took the best photo I could from where I was.

Eynsford Castle is a ruined medieval fortification in Eynsford, Kent. Built on the site of an earlier Anglo-Saxon stone burh, the castle was constructed by William de Enysford, probably between 1085 and 1087, to protect the lands of Lanfranc, the Archbishop of Canterbury, from Odo, the Bishop of Bayeux. It comprised an inner and an outer bailey, the former protected by a stone curtain wall. In 1130 the defences were improved, and a large stone hall built in the inner bailey. The de Enysford family held the castle until their male line died out in 1261, when it was divided equally between the Heringaud and de Criol families. A royal judge, William Inge, purchased half of the castle in 1307, and arguments ensued between him and his co-owner, Nicholas de Criol, who ransacked Eynsford in 1312. The castle was never reoccupied and fell into ruins, and in the 18th century it was used to hold hunting kennels and stables. The ruins began to be restored after 1897, work intensifying after 1948 when the Ministry of Works took over the running of the castle. In the 21st century, Eynsford Castle is managed by English Heritage and is open to visitors.

A short 2.75 mile walk but pleasant in the Spring sun!

 

Chilham to Chartham, Kent circular 28th November 22

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On Monday the 28th November 2022 I drove to Chilham in Kent and parked for free in The Street CT4 8DL.

I walk by Chilham Castle but sadly was closed.

Originally built in 1616 by Sir Dudley Digges on the site of a medieval castle, the house has been lovingly restored by its current owners and occupies a beautiful position offering sweeping views of the surrounding area.

The well-maintained gardens which form part of the estate, originally designed by Thomas Heron and Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown, are open to the public on Tuesdays throughout the summer months. Historical tours of the house are also available by special arrangement.

Chilham Castle plays host to a number of events throughout the year, from open air performances from the touring Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre Company to the annual ‘Chilham Chase’ fun run.

The Pilgrim Milestone in the square in the centre of the village of Chilham. The oak wooden carving was carved by Steven Andrews and donated to the parish of Chilham. The Pilgrims Way passes through Chilham on its way to Canterbury.

There is a nice 17th century grade II listed tea room here called The Church Mouse. Serving drinks, lights meals, snacks and nor forgetting Cream teas.

The "White Horse" is one of the most photographed inns of Kent, standing as it does in the picturesque village square. It is reputedly haunted, not surprisingly as the village and its nearby castle are steeped in history. The pub itself is fifteenth century, and was the alehouse used for festivals held at the parish church behind the inn.

It was supplied by Jude, Hanbury's Canterbury ales and stouts in 1927.

The White Horse has also appeared in a film. The pub and St. Mary's church were used in the 1965 adaptation of Daniel Defoe's classic novel "The Amourous Adventures of Moll Flanders."

In the year 1646, Samson Home, vicar of St. Mary's church came to reside at "The White Horse." With the coming of the reformation in 1660, Samson, a supporter of Cromwell and the commonwealth, opposed the church and was ejected from office in 1662. He died alone and penniless here in 1669. It was during the 1956 alterations the inglenook fireplace that had been bricked up since 1740, was uncovered. Since that date many a pint glass has fallen on the shelves only to land upright and unbroken.

Is Salmon trying to tell us something! Also during the alterations in 1956, two complete and perfectly preserved male skeletons were found under the kitchen floor - at a depth of two feet.

General supposition is that they were either soldiers who fell in the battle at Chilham during the Wat Tyler rebellion, or the much older remains of men buried in the pre-Christain era.

The skeletons now rest in the churchyard of St. Mary's, Chilham, where they were given a Christian burial by the vicar after the coroner's inquest had pronounced them to be Ancient Bones and not the result of undetected crime!

I  walk on and into the churchyard of St Marys Church in Chilham.

The church is famous as the last known resting place of the shrine of St Augustine. When the Abbey of St Augustine in Canterbury was destroyed during the English Reformation, the gilded shrine containing the saint's body was removed from the abbey and brought to Chilham church. Here it stayed until 1541 when it disappeared. Several attempts to determine what happened to the shrine have proved unsuccessful, and its whereabouts remain a great historical mystery.

It is believed Saint Thomas Becketis buried in the Churchyard.

The church of St Mary, Chilham, was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 but has a history going back perhaps as far as the 7th century. In the 12th century, the church was owned by the French abbey of St Bertin, a Benedictine monastery at St Omer. It later passed into the hands of Syon Abbey, based at Isleworth in Middlesex.

Chilham was granted by king Henry VIII. to Thomas Manners, Lord Roos, afterwards created Earl of Rutland, who in the 30th year of that reign conveyed it back again, by sale, to that king, by the description of the honour, castle, lordship, and manor of Chylham, with all its rights, members, and appurtenances.

I leave the church and walk on down The Street to continue my walk.

Further down the road I pass The Woolpack Inn.

The Woolpack Inn is a charming 600 year old inn, located in the Garden of England in the heart of the Kentish countryside. With huge oak beams and inglenook fireplaces, it’s a stunning place to stay with a dark secret – the ghost of a Grey Lady…

No one knows who this lady is… or do they? No they don’t. But here’s an interesting story ;

Back in the 1880s lived a young, successful businessman called Charles Stephens. His devoted wife was called Catherine and they lived in Mountain St, Chilham. It was an idyllic, married existence, or so everyone thought.

On Catherine’s 30th birthday, Charles was scheduled to go to a business meeting in Canterbury. He arranged to be back in time to meet Catherine at the Woolpack for a birthday lunch. Unfortunately the only business Charles was engaged in that day was funny business. He was having an affair with an unknown married woman named Betsy Rogers. Whilst Charles rodgered Betsy Rogers, Mr Rogers arrived home unexpectedly. The two men engaged in some very exuberant fisticuffs and Charles fell back, cracking his skull on the mantle piece.

His last words were “Argh… you’re standing on my hand.” But before that, he said “I’ve got to get to the Woolpack. It’s Catherine’s birthday.” But of course he never did make it to the Woolpack, nor anywhere else for that matter. He died right there in the bedroom, his blood soaking into the floor, his hand crushed under the heel of Mr Roger’s boot. He was still very cross with Charles.

Poor Catherine waited and waited. Finally she was told the dreadful news. She showed no emotion but quietly and with great dignity got up and walked home. The next day she returned. “I’m waiting for my Charles, he’ll be returning from a business trip in Canterbury any minute now,” she would tell anyone that asked. She would then sit for an hour nursing a small sherry before walking home and repeating the excursion the next day… and the next… and the next. Aside from her daily visit to the Woolpack, she lived a remarkably functional existence. People learned not to speak of her husband’s demise and she refused to engage with it.

This pattern was repeated for many years before Catherine, by now an elderly lady, passed away. Some people say she died of a broken heart, although it was more likely to be her broken neck, which she sustained by falling down the back steps of the Woolpack during her last visit.

I like to think Catherine Stephens is the Grey Lady, still waiting for Charles to return from his business trip all those years ago. If you do happen to see her, give her a smile and a nod but under no circumstances mention that Rogers woman!

I walk on down Bagham Lane crossing the A28 Ashford Road into Bagham and onto Mill Lane up to to the level crossing where I had to wait a while for a train to pass.

I walk on and cross The Great Stour river.

Bridge over The Great Stour River.

I pass by The Chilham Mill.

The large corn mill at Chilham is the best preserved on the River Stour. The waterwheel is 14 feet 6 inches (4.42 m) diameter and 7 feet 10 inches (2.39 m) wide, carried on a + section cast-iron axle of a nominal 20 inches (510 mm) diameter. This also carried a cast-iron Pit Wheel 10 feet 8 inches (3.25 m) diameter with 96 cogs driving a Wallower with 34 teeth on a cast-iron Upright Shaft carrying a cast-iron Great Spur Wheel with 114 cogs. This drove six pairs of millstones, originally all underdrift, but one of the Stone Nuts has been adapted to drive a vertical shaft which powered auxiliary machinery and drove the sixth pair of stones overdrift by belt and pulley.

 The mill stands on an island in the Great Stour and is owned by Mid Kent Fisheries (a subsidiary of Mid Kent Water) who have restored the building and developed the area for recreation and fishing. There has been a mill on this site for at least a thousand years.

I walk uphill a bit and then across Farmland towards Stile Farm.

On reaching Stile Farm I take another path across more fields.

I exit onto Pickleden Lane and follow this for a while.

I take another footpath on my right further up and cross more fields.

The footpath brings me out into Chartham by The Artichoke Public House on Station Road.

The Artichoke is one of Shepherd Neame’s most historically significant pubs. Back in the 1650s it was owned by Richard Marsh, who turned it into a brew house before going on to found the brewery in Faversham.

The earliest recorded form of the name is Certham. The name Chartham literally means 'Village on rough ground', and the word "Chart" is also found in other villages in Kent with this meaning. The Stone Street part of the name comes from Stone Street, a road and small hamlet that runs parallel to the A28 on the other side of the villages.

The river provided power for the paper mills until some point before 1955. Paper making has been a major occupation for the last 625 years; the mill dates from the late eighteenth century.

I take another footpath across more farmland.

I divert off the path to go and see the remains of a chapel in Horton.

The Grade II listed building in Chartham, Kent, which dates from the late 14th century, has no windows, doors or roof.

The chapel is a Scheduled Ancient Monument and thus considered to be of national significance, but is currently languishing on English Heritage’s At Risk register of important but decaying British buildings.

It appears to be in the process of being converted into a property.

 I walk on along the path before taking another to my left and in the distance I can see Milton Manor Church.

Milton Manor Church

I walk across a bridge over the Great Stour and pass the four lakes at the Milton Complex to try and find a path back over the railway lines.

Milton Lakes Complex is part of Mid Kent Fisheries since 1992 and consists of four Lakes: Pan Lake, Handle Lake, Swan Lake and Tonford Lake.

The Pan Lake was already partially stocked with carp from the Mill Pool at Faversham and has had a major stocking of carp in 2002. Since then the growth rate has been exceptional with carp now being over 40lb. The Pan Lake is also renowned for the huge tench and many top anglers like Martin Bowler consider it to be the best in the country.

I find a path that crosses the Railway lines.

I emerge back on the A28 Ashford Road.

After a bit of horrible road walking passing Industrial estates and car dealers I reach a path on my right and I follow a path pass a Orchard.

The path takes me through Langdale Wood.

The path crosses another railway line.

I follow the path alongside a wood called The Rough towards a Telecom Tower.

I follow the path pass more orchards.

I exit onto New Town Street in Chartham Hatch up to Hatch Farmhouse.

I follow the North Downs Way path behind Hatch Farmhouse and it isn't obvious where  the path goes, after a bit of looking about I find the path goes left behind the properties below.

The path passes more orchards and a fruit farm where I was surprised to see strawberries still growing at this time of year!

There are fantastic views across the North Downs from up here.

I decide to stop at a bench up here and brew up a cup of tea and take in the views.

I follow the North Downs Way path downhill.

I pass back under the railway line and through a caravan park.

I leave the caravan path via a path on my left and pass through another orchard.

The path dips downhill with more superb views.

The path eventually takes me out onto Lower Lees Road.

I am walking through the outskirts of Old Wives Lees.

I take another path towards Chilham.

I walk out onto the A28 Canterbury Road and follow this back to Chilham.

I follow the route I walked out and back into Chilham.

A lovely 11.5 mile walk and now for the drive back!