Sunday 24 March 2019

Sawbridgeworth, Hertfordshire Circular walk 24.03.19

On 24.03.19 I set off from home for the 40 minute drive to Sawbridgeworth in Hertfortshire on the Essex Border.

GPX File here
Viewranger file here

I arrive and park up in Luxford Place, not much parking here. I later see more parking over the bridge that's more appropriate.
I set off and after crossing the bridge I walk down alongside the River Stort (Navigation).
I am at Sheering Mill Lock.

Although a mill in Sheering was recorded in Domesday, it is not certain that that the site corresponded with the present position. The mill here was called Quickbury Mill in 1241 but the date of the change of name to Sheering Mill is not known. The Mill, closed in 1914, probably due to lack of demand for its produce. It was purchased by the Lee Conservancy and demolished in November 1917. The tail race tunnels are still visible. There is a miller's plate above the top gate.


The 1799 lock cottage lasted until 1980 but was then allowed to deteriorate, unoccupied, until it had to be demolished. However, the original plaster plaque that was over the front door, bearing the red hand of the baronet and Sir George Duckett’s initials (see above) still survives. 

The old cottage was replaced by the present building in 2000.


The Stort Navigation is the canalised section of the River Stort runs 14 miles from the town of Bishop's Stortford, Hertfordshire, downstream to its confluence with the Lee Navigation at Feildes Weir near Rye House, Hoddesdon, Hertfordshire.

With the growth of the malt trade in Bishop's Stortford in the early eighteenth century, attention turned to providing better transport facilities. The River Stort joined the River Lea, and the malt trade at Ware had benefitted from improvements made on that river. A similar solution was therefore sought for the Stort, and a public meeting was held on 11 December 1758. The chief promoter seems to have been Thomas Adderley. A bill was duly submitted to parliament, and became an Act of Parliament in March 1759. It was entitled An Act for making the River Stort navigable, in the counties of Hertford and Essex, from the New Bridge, in the town of Bishop Stortford, into the River Lea, near a Place called the Rye, in the county of Hertford.


The 15 locks are built to take boats 86 feet (26 m) by 13.25 feet (4.0 m), which means that they are not quite wide enough to take two narrow boats at a time. The Navigation is now managed by the Canal & River Trust as successor to British Waterways.



Marshes survive in the valley to this day and the area is extremely important for birds, not only as a breeding ground and wintering area, but also as a feeding and resting place during migration.

Wet grassland provides insects, worms and other invertebrates as food for waterfowl and other birds as they pass. Breeding birds are numerous and include reed and sedge warblers, little grebe, water rail, moorhen, kingfisher and the occasional snipe. The area is also good for flocks of finches which in autumn and winter feed off seeds of teasel, thistle and other plants.


I now pass Feakes Lock (no.27)

Feaks Lock, not affected by a Mill. A foot bridge at the tail. The lower gates dated 1836. Upper ditto dated 1832.




I now reach Harlow Mill , where I cross the bridge and start to head back on myself.

Harlow is a former Mark One New Town and local government district in the west of Essex, England. Situated on the border with Hertfordshire and London, it occupies a large area of land on the south bank of the upper Stort Valley, which has been made navigable through other towns and features a canal section near its watermill.


After crossing the bridge I head back down along the opposite towpath.


I take a path that heads away from the canal and across a field and river.

The path I'm on follows the Three Forests Way and Harcamlow Way.

After crossing a road I came out into Pishiobury Park.

Pishiobury Park is a registered historic parkland (Grade 2 star) with a history that spans from the Neolithic period, with evidence of Roman occupation, links to Henry VIII and evidence of ‘Capability’ Brown style landscape features.
It is bounded to the North West by the A1184. The north east and south west boundaries are backed onto by residential properties. The south east boundary consists of wet woodland (The Osier Bed), grazed fields, flood meadows and the River Stort navigation.

The original park covered a much larger area, some retained as open land but privately owned and some developed for housing. The remaining 30 ha of parkland has been designated a County Wildlife Site and is laid largely to grazed pasture with scattered mature trees, roundels, hedgerows and woodland belts lining the perimeter.

I am now on a footpath that runs alongside housing before I emerge out into Sawbridgeworth.

Prior to the Norman conquest, most of the area was owned by the Saxon Angmar the Staller.

The Manor of "Sabrixteworde" (one of the many spellings previously associated with the town) was recorded in the Domesday Book. After the Battle of Hastings it was granted to Geoffrey de Mandeville I by William the Conqueror. Local notables have included John Leventhorpe, an executor of both King Henry IV and King Henry Vs' wills and Anne Boleyn, who was given the Pishiobury/Pishobury estate, located to the south of the town.

The mansion and surrounding land was acquired by Sir Walter Lawrence, the master builder, in the 1920s. In 1934, he instituted the Walter Lawrence Trophy for the fastest century in county cricket. He built a cricket ground and pavilion in the grounds where the great and the good of the cricket world came to play against Sir Walter's home team, which often included his three sons: Jim, Guy and Pat. Sir Walter also had two daughters: Molly and Gipsy. Great Hyde Hall was sold in 1945 and became a school. It is a Grade II* listed building and has now been divided into housing.

Much of the town centre is a conservation area; many of the buildings date from the Tudor, Stuart and Georgian periods.



The Market House,Kings Street
The Market House Hotel was built as a house (a private hotel in 1937), and converted into a hotel / pub but I suspect this was long ago; it closed in 2010 for conversion back to residential use.


I now walk down Church Street to Great Saint Mary Church.

Great St Mary's was built from flintstone and mortar on a site that is believed to go back to pre-Domesday times (11th Century). 

In the base of the tower is a 'Pudding Stone' which indicates that this had previously been an ancient pagan site of worship which had been adopted/converted to Christianity.

The churchyard contains a memorial to those who died in the two Great Wars. Amongst the gravestones can be found that of Joseph Vick, who was one of the few survivors of the valliant six-hundred who "rode into the valley of death" in the famous Charge of the Light Brigade in the Crimean War in 1854.

Great St Mary's Church is a Grade I listed building; "of special interest as a substantially unaltered large medieval parish church, typical of the Hertfordshire type, and with an outstanding collection of memorials of the highest artistic quality". It was originally built in the 13th century (although a church on the site existed in Saxon times) and includes a Tudor tower containing a clock bell (1664) and eight ringing bells, the oldest of which dates from 1749.It is unclear why it is "Great" St Mary's. Ralph Jocelyn of Hyde Hall, who was twice Lord Mayor of London, in 1464 and 1476, is buried here; images of many of his family and other locals have been engraved on brass, and hence the church is popular for enthusiasts of brass rubbing. The ghost of Sir John Jocelyn, known for his love of horses, is reputed to appear riding a white horse on the old carriage drive every 1 November.



The church has royal connections. Both Elizabeth I and Anne Boleyn, wife of Henry VIII worshipped here.




Sir John Leventhorpe, d.1625 & widow Joan, d.1627



I leave the church behind and head back Sheering Mill Lane.

Now after a bit of walking I'm back crossing the bridge back past Lock Cottage.




I cross back over the canal where two girls were getting ready to paddleboard,I'd love to try that one day!


Now after a lovely sunny walk of 4.2 miles I'm back at the car ready to drive home!


Friday 8 March 2019

The Matchings,Essex Walk 8th March 2019

On Friday the 8th March 2019 I drove off not knowing where I was walking today. I saw a road sign for The Matchings in Essex. That sounds nice lets head there! I park up in The Matching Village Hall car park in Matching Green and walk up into the village.

GPX File here
Viewranger file here

Matching's name is of Saxon origin, derived from the people or tribe of Maecca (Match) who settled in an open area of pasture called an "Ing", hence 'Matching'. In the Domesday Book (1086) it was called Matcinga.

The actor and comedian Rik Mayall was born at Matching Tye.



Gainsborough Cottage is situated in the picturesque village of Matching Tye, set within a conservation area, in front a picturesque green.  A plaque on the front indicates a date of 1692, but there is significant evidence to suggest that the origins of the house are earlier. Relatively recent history of the house indicates that it was a Post Office until 1938 and an eccentric artist purchased the house and added a considerable quantity of quality period features, including the dramatic front entrance canopy. This handsome building is constructed mainly with a timber frame and rendered elevations and is Grade II Listed, considered to be of architectural and historical merit.

The Fox Inn is an 18th Century pub, set in the peaceful village of Matching Tye.

The Fox Inn

I take a footpath on my right and head down a part of  The Forest Way.

I am now heading into Matching and get a view of the beautiful church.

All its Domesday manors were fertile but small and poor — the three small manors held by the Abbey of St Valery, Geoffrey de Mandeville, and Ralph de Tony each had a single ploughteam in 1066. Matching from the mid-medieval period had four manor houses, which now stand on or near their medieval sites.

The Church of St Mary the Virgin is Grade II* listed architecturally — there is no mention of it in the Domesday Book but the Norman church was probably built on an old Saxon site. The tower was added in the 15th century. It is plain, square and embattled and surmounted by a low tiled spire and weather clock. It retains its original 13th century doorway.

Six bells are in the tower, restored in 1990. It is inscribed "God Save the Queen". The second and third bells were originally cast about 1500 by William Culverden of Houndsditch, and inscribed "Sancte Thoma ora pro nobis" and "Sancta Anna ora pro nobis"; the fourth is inscribed "God Save the King. 1615" and the fifth "God Save the King. 1640" They were both made by Robert Oldfield of Hertford. A sixth bell was added in 1887 to celebrate the Jubilee of Queen Victoria.

Matching Hall is one of the four and one of three Grade II* architecture buildings in the old village centre, which is dominated by the church and is a cul-de-sac also accessible by footpaths.. Richard de Montfichet held the manor in 1260.

The clock on the church tower was removed from the old church at Epping when the church was pulled down, and set up in Matching in memory of Henry Selwin-Ibbetson, 1st Baron Rookwood of Down Hall.

Marriage Feasting Hall

A notice displayed at the entrance states that the hall was built by William Chimney in 1480. This detached two-storey building, close to the church, is the other Grade II* listed building in the parish and is a timber framed Tudor building with 19th and 20th century extensions, plastered, roofed with handmade red clay tiles; an inside wall has a Victorian chimney stack. Two plain boarded doors form the entrance, on which side windows have horizontally sliding sashes of 16 panes, four on both floors, and one 20th century casement window on the first floor. Facing the church are two small 20th century casement windows, whereas the first floor has four 19th century neo-gothic cast-iron casement windows. Some framing remains exposed internally. On the ground floor, at the north-west end a stairway rises from one external door to the first floor. At the SE end an original studded partition separates one bay from the remainder — the main section is open.

Inside are visible the transverse and axial beams, plain chamfered except in the service end with joists lathed and plastered to soffits. There are grooves for sliding shutters. The first floor is open from end to end and to collars. Posts are jowled with cambered tie-beams with arched braces. Plain crownposts have axial braces, much restored. Upstairs are two large rooms. The Hall has been used as a school and an almshouse, with inserted partitions and chimneys; most of these have been removed. Morant wrote in 1768: "A house, close to the church yard, said to be built by one Chimney, was designed for the entertainment of poor people on their wedding day". It seems to be very ancient, but ruinous", without supplying a Christian name or date. That its jutting façade faces away from the church tends to confirm this secular intention, for buildings of similar form designed as the meeting places of religious guilds would have a jutting midsection facing towards the church.


On the south wall the first window commemorates the restoration of the church by Lord and Lady Rookwood. The other stained window on the south wall is dedicated by parishioners and friends to the memory of Lord Rookwood who died on 15 January 1902. The east window, which commemorates Edan, Lady Rookwood, are by Powell of Whitefriars.

St Mary's organ is a rare Bevington with pipe work over the console. A brass plaque commemorates the erection of the organ by Mrs Calverley of Down Hall in memory of her brother, Sir Frederick Henniker, of the 60th Rifles, who died on 19 August 1908.


I leave the church and head off on a footpath opposite and pass Brick House Farm.

I now leave the footpath and emerge out into Matching Green.

A World War II airfield, RAF Matching, was located nearby in Matching Green. A memorial plaque remembers American airmen who lost their lives in World War II when stationed at RAF Matching. They came from the 391st Bombardment Group of the U.S Ninth Air Force.



Matching Green has one of the largest village greens in Essex. The green is almost triangular in shape, covers 5.6 hectares (13.8 acres), contains the local cricket field, and is edged by mainly detached cottages and houses dating from the 14th to 19th century, twenty-eight of which are listed buildings. The village public house is The Chequers at the western edge of the green.

The site of the former RAF Matching lies to the east of village.



I leave Matching Green walking up a road and taking a footpath on my right and head across farmland.


After much walking, I am now on the road back into Matching Tye.


I arrive back in Matching Tye passing Matthews Chapel next to the Village Hall.


I am now back at the car after just a smidge over 4 miles. A lovely  hour and a half walk!