My Adventures 3: Redbourn to St Albans Circular 16th July 2018

GPX File here
Viewranger file here

On Monday the 16th of July 2018, I left home for the hours drive to Redbourn where I park up on Hemel Hempstead Road outside St Marys Church.

I turned on my GPS to find out I hadn't uploaded the GPX file! Oh well I'll have to do it the old fashion way and use my OS Map!

To the south-west of the village, just beyond the motorway is the site of an Iron Age hill fort called the Aubreys. To the north of the village is the site of a complex of Roman temples.

The village has been continuously settled at least since Saxon times and is recorded in the Domesday Book. Its parish church, St Mary's, was built in the early 12th century. Some fifty years later, a small priory was founded half a mile away on Redbourn Common, after the abbot of St Albans Abbey decided to consecrate the ground. Some bones had been found on the spot, reputed to be of St Amphibalus, the priest who had converted St Alban to Christianity.

In the 16th century the manor of Redbourn belonged to the Reade family: Sir Richard Reade, formerly Lord Chancellor of Ireland, bought the manor when he came back to England from Ireland; he died in 1575 and was buried at the parish church. Reade left legacies to Winchester College and for the upkeep of the parish of Redbourn. The manor of Redbourn itself was inherited by his eldest son Innocent, who also inherited the older family estate at Nether Wallop.

In 2010, Redbourn's St Mary's Church celebrated its 900th anniversary.

The church dates from the 12th century, the oldest parts being the nave and west tower. The north aisle was added around 1140 and the chancel in 1340. The south aisle was built in the mid 14th century, the south chapel and porch between 1444 and 1455. The clerestory was added around 1478.

The east window was installed in 1886 in memory of Rev. W. Serocold Wade and was designed by Mayor of London and Munich.

The church contains a pipe organ originally dating from 1888 by Forster and Andrews. This was rebuilt in 1932 by Roy Huntingford and in 1961 by Arnold, Williamson and Hyatt. The last restoration was in 2005 by Vincent Woodstock. A specification of the organ can be found on the National Pipe Organ Register.

I leave the church after a quick look around as there were people in there having prayers and walk across the road and take a footpath between the houses.

At the top of this path I turn left onto The Nickey Line Footpath.

Approximately 7 miles long, the Nickey Line footpath and cycle way in Hertfordshire is a former railway line (the Harpenden to Hemel Hempstead Railway).

The Nickey Line still links Harpenden, Redbourn and Hemel Hempstead but is used now by railway history enthusiasts, walkers and cyclists from many parts of the country. It was opened as a footpath /cycleway in 1985.

As the path rejoins Hemel Hempstead Road at the end, I cross the busy B487 road and into the footpath opposite.

I now walk through Farmland and along a track flanked both sides by trees before eventually leaving by some lovely homes and onto St Albans Road (The Old Roman Road).

I cross St Albans Road and directly onto the Footpath opposite.

I walk through more fields before getting my first glimpse of The River Ver.

The river begins in the grounds of Lynch Lodge, Kensworth Lynch on west side of the A5 trunk road and stays on the west side for some half mile or so then crosses through a pipe into the grounds of Markyate Cell, exits the grounds and recrosses the A5 once again piped, through Markyate, exits above ground at the southern end of Markyate and on through Flamstead, Redbourn, St Albans and Park Street, and joins the River Colne at Bricket Wood.

I reach the point of interest on this walk, Redbournbury Watermill.

The buildings have no single date because the original mill has been extended at different times. There was a mill recorded possibly on this site in the Domesday Book of 1087 and the present buildings may well stand on those original foundations. Parts of the building date from the sixteenth century but much of the mill was rebuilt and extended in 1790. This can be seen on a dated brick in the south wall.

It is likely that there was a mill in Saxon Redbourn which we assume would have been part of the manor of Redbourn given to the Abbott in the time of Edward the Confessor. Whilst the original Charter is lost, there is a medieval translation showing that the local Saxon Lord, or wealthy

landowner, Aegelwyne le Swarte and his wife Wynfreda, gave the Manor of Redbourn to the Abbey of St.Albans in about 1030. The nearby Redbournbury farmhouse was his Manor Court-house, later used by the Abbot's Chamberlain.

The first surviving record of the mill after the Domesday Book was during the Abbacy of John of Wheathampstead,1290-1301, which says that "Fire entirely destroyed the Chamberlain's Mill. Fanned by an unbearable wind, the whole manor was threatened but was protected by the surrounding woods". The Chamberlain's Mill was the old name for Redbournbury Mill.

At the dissolution of the monasteries in 1539, the Abbey lands, including the mill, were seized by Henry VIII. On his death, these passed to Princess Elizabeth, later Queen. It then passed on to James I who, through the Treasury, leased the mill in trust into successive private hands.

In 1653 the mill was bought by Sir Harbottle Grimston for £200. Grimstone is the family name of the present Earls of Verulam so the mill became part of what we now know as the Gorhambury Estate. It remained in the estate until 1936 when much was sold by the 4th Earl. The Crown Estate Commissioners bought the Gorhambury Estate, thus returning the mill to Crown hands after a gap of about 350 years.

By 1841 the mill was held by Edward Hawkins, whose family continued - with only one gap - to hold the mill for the next one hundred and forty four years. Ivy Hawkins, grand-daughter of Edward, was the "only lady miller in England". She finally left the mill in 1985, aged 89, to retire to a home in Redbourn. The Crown then put the mill on the market when it was bought by the present owners.

On Ivy Hawkins' departure the Crown Estate Commissioners offered the mill for sale with a variety of possible uses. To their great credit, they accepted the only offer to restore the mill to full working order. English Heritage also offered a major grant to restore the mill, reclassifying it to Listed Grade 2. This means that both the mill and house are protected historic buildings.

When the present owners bought the mill from the Crown, the mill had been unused since the 1950's. At this stage the mill was well preserved, although it did need considerable repairs. It was almost unique as a historical record of an early Victorian water-mill.

On the night of 22nd August, 1987 disaster struck. A fire broke out in the roof of the mill, only a few days after restoration work had begun. It destroyed most of the interior of the mill and much of the top floor of the house. With considerable skill and bravery the main gearing on the ground floor of the mill was saved by the fire brigade and this made rebuilding the mill possible.

With limited finance from the insurers, and a grant from English Heritage, the task of rebuilding the mill began. With the aid of photographs and the architect's drawings from before the fire, the builders pieced together the mill just as it had been - reclaiming as many of the original fire-damaged materials as possible. A millwright, Mr. David Nicholls, and his company the Chiltern Partnership, then rebuilt all the machinery in the mill. Some of the machinery was rescued from other derelict mills.

Interestingly, English Heritage required that, other than fire damaged timber, only new wood could be used. They argued that this fire was only the latest chapter in a long story; it was nearly seven hundred years since the first fire and, in coming years, they wanted visitors to be able to distinguish between the original and reconstructed parts of the building. In all nearly twelve tons of English oak, as well as six tons of softwood, were used.

The mill bakery was opened on 20th July 2006. The bakery has been built in one of the converted barns at the front of the mill - Ivy Hawkins' old cow byre. The structure of the building has been carefully preserved and many of the internal features can still be seen, but it has been fitted-out to meet the rigorous requirements of modern environmental health regulations. Into this traditional building has been installed a variety of modern baking equipment including a five deck oven, a retarder-prover, mixers and racks.

The bakery is now producing a range of hand-crafted breads, all baked from our Organic flour. This range includes: unbleached white, brown, wholemeal, malted, spelt and rye loaves as well as sun-dried tomato, onion, garlic and rosemary foccaccia, sea-salt foccaccia, date and walnut, sunflower seed. We also make delicious plain and fruit scones, tea cakes, rolls and baps.

Unfortunately neither were open today!

I walk out of the gate and out into the road, I walk up to a ford where a man was with his spaniel, that was having a cool down in the water as it was another sweltering day.

I wasn't sure where the path continued, I walked about a short way and end up back by the ford and the man and dog. I see a bridge to the side and the footpath!

I cross the ford, shortly after the picture below a car makes it way slowly through.

I am now following the Hertfordshire Way.

I now approach Shafford Mill.

This handsome building dates mainly from the 1840s. It features a long, and still flowing, mill stream above the meadows to the east of Watling Street between St Albans and Redbourn. The now private house and garden are on the ‘island’ between the millstream and the river channel.

In 1669, the miller here also farmed wheat and barley, ran a flour shop and leased Redbournbury mill! Shafford, Do-Little and Redbournbury mills were then owned by the Speaker of the Restoration Parliament, Gorhambury-based Sir Harbottle Grimston.

I leave the lovely Shafford Mill behind and walk down a lane to rejoin St Albans Road.

I eventually make my way across the busy road and into a footpath on the other side.

I walk alongside The Ver for sometime now.

I reach the Pre Mill house, not as pretty as the mills, but it serves a purpose.

I wander down a little way before confirming I need to cross The River Ver by the Pre-Mill and walk down a long drive.

At the end of the drive I turn left and walk down another drive towards St Albans. The Cathedral is now coming into sight in the distance.

The Fosse

I pass The Fosse. Second century Roman defences of Verulamium. The Fosse was not completed.

Now I pass the Roman Theatre on the Gorhambury Estate, I go to enter and a woman comes running out asking if I wanted to see the Theatre. Apparently its £2.50 to enter. I had no idea as I entered from the other-side of the gates and booth. Anyway fee paid I go in for a look about.

The Roman Theatre of Verulamium is unique. Built in about 140AD it is the only example of its kind in Britain, being a theatre with a stage rather than an Amphitheatre. Initially, the arena would have been used for anything from religious processions and dancing, to wrestling, armed combat and wild beast shows. From about 180AD the stage came into greater use and the auditorium was extended. By about 300AD, after some redevelopment work, the Theatre could seat 2000 spectators.

The ruins one can see today were unearthed in 1847 and 1935. Subsequent excavations in 1957 and 1961 revealed a row of shop foundations, a Roman Villa and a secret shrine, all thought to date from the First Century.

The theatre has been refurbished in 2014 to include new steps, pathways and handrails. There is now improved, yet limited disabled access. The Theatre is available to book for cultural entertainment.

I leave the theatre and walk down the lane to join the A1417, I cross over and walk up towards Verulamium Park.

I pass the Verulamium Museum, at a £5 entry and lack of time, I decide to give this a miss and walk on into the park.

St Micheals Church

I walk on up across the park to visit the Roman Mosaic and Hypocaust.

Roman hypocaust systems allowed hot air to circulate beneath the floor and through the walls of buildings. Floors were raised on brick columns (pilae) or, as in this case, trenches were cut below the floor to allow the hot air through. The mosaic covering the hypocaust was made of tesserae (small cubes) of cut stone or tile. These were set into a thin layer of fine mortar which was spread over a concrete floor. The tesserae were grouted with mortar and polished with abrasive stones. The floor may have also been polished with beeswax to enhance the colours.

The floor is thought to have been part of the reception and meeting rooms of a large town house, built around AD 200 near Watling Street, the major Roman road that ran past Verulamium.

This 1800 year old hypocaust was uncovered during excavations in Verulamium Park in the 1930s by Sir Mortimer & Tessa Wheeler. It was decided that it would be best to leave both the mosaic and hypocaust in their original Roman location rather than risk moving them.

The Hypocaust is housed within a sleek modern building and is free to visitors. I was lucky to visit when I did, as I left a large school party entered!

I walk back down across the park towards the town and cathedral.

I stop for a quick bite to eat and drink, while I take in the views to the cathedral.

Remains of the Roman Wall

I walk on through the park and alongside The River Ver again.

I pass Ye Olde Fighting Cocks Public House.

It is reputed that Oliver Cromwell, subsequently Lord Protector from 1653 until his death in 1658, slept at the inn for one night during the Civil War of 1642-1651.

It is reputed that there are tunnels stretching from the beer cellar to the Abbey, apparently frequented by the monks of that time. Cock fighting was a national pastime in England for 600 years from the reign of Henry the Second up to and through the reigns of the three Georges and it is thought that the Cock Pit - about 8ft wide and 10ft long - was brought down from the Abbey when the original name 'The Round House' was changed to 'Ye Olde Fighting Cocks' until cock fighting as a sport was banned in 1849, when the pub name was changed to 'The Fisherman'. However it has been known officially as 'Ye Olde Fighting Cocks' since 1872.

It is one of several pubs that lay claim to being the oldest in England. The building is described by Historic England as being of sixteenth century appearance, but as the earliest date for which it can be proved to have been licensed is 1756 - and even that date is not certain - its claim to this record is somewhat uncertain.. Even in St Albans, the White Hart and the Fleur de Lys (currently called 'The Snug') have claims to have been trading as inns in the late medieval period.

The building, in its current location, was originally known as "The Round House" but there is no record of it being licensed as a public house under that name. The first known reference to it being an alehouse is in 1756 when it appears to be trading as the "Three Pigeons". Around 1800 its name changed to the "Fighting Cocks", perhaps in reference to the sport of cock fighting which was popular at the time and which may have taken place in the main bar area. The prefix "Ye olde..." is a late Victorian affectation. It is known by locals as 'The Fighters' or 'The Cocks'.

In 2015 PETA wrote to the pub's landlord and its owners, Mitchells & Butlers, requesting that they change the name due to its cockfighting association. The request was declined.

The Cocks was featured in an exterior scene in "The Sins of the Fathers", a 1990 episode of the ITV series Inspector Morse. The setting was the beer garden along the River Ver, with the pub's large sign plainly visible in the background.

I walk up the hill to St Albans Cathedral, an absolutely stunning piece of architecture!

St Alban’s story and this place built in his honour takes us back to the beginning of the Christian faith in Britain.

Alban is believed to have been a Romano-British citizen of the third century in the Roman city of Verulamium, in the valley below the present Cathedral. The earliest versions of his history say that he gave shelter to a stranger fleeing from persecution. This was a Christian priest, originally un-named but later called Amphibalus in the re-telling of the story. Alban was so moved by the priest’s faith and courage that he asked to be taught more about Christianity, then still a forbidden religion.

Before long the authorities came to arrest the fugitive priest. But Alban, inspired by his new-found faith, exchanged clothes with Amphibalus, allowing him to escape. Instead Alban was arrested and brought before the city magistrate. Alban refused to sacrifice to the emperor and the Roman gods. When asked to identify himself he declared: ‘I am called Alban and I worship and adore the true and living God, who created all things’.

The magistrate ordered that Alban should receive the punishment due to the priest. He was brought out of the town and up the hillside to the site of execution where he was beheaded. Despite escaping, Amphibalus too was later arrested and martyred at Redbourn, a few miles away.

Alban was probably buried in the Roman cemetery now located by modern archaeological digs to the south of the present Cathedral. Alban is honoured as the first British martyr, and his grave on this hillside quickly became a place of pilgrimage.

The first churches here were probably simple structures over Alban’s grave, making this the oldest continuous site of Christian worship in Great Britain. Recent finds suggest an early basilica over the spot and in 429 St Germanus recorded his visit to this church. In the early eighth century the historian Bede told the story of St Alban and described ‘a beautiful church, worthy of his martyrdom’.

The shrine of St Alban can be seen here today. Its Purbeck marble base of 1308 supports a modern red and gold canopy under which rests a shoulder-blade said to come from the original relics of the saint’s body. The canopy is embroidered with English wildflowers, commemorating Bede’s description of Alban as ascending a hill "adorned with wild flowers of every kind." The red rose, in particular has come to be a special symbol of the saint reflecting the words of an ancient prayer: ‘Among the roses of the martyrs, brightly shines Saint Alban.’

Alban is a saint of the undivided church, a saint for all Christians. His welcome to a persecuted stranger was a powerful example of courage, compassion and hospitality. St Alban is still with us in the Communion of Saints, and in this sacred place we worship God with him and ask his prayers.

For over 1700 years, pilgrims have prayed on this hillside, many on or near St Alban’s Day, 22 June, when his story is celebrated and re-enacted.

The Abbey Gateway, St Albans was built in 1365 and is the last remaining building (except for the Abbey itself) of the Benedictine Monastery at St Albans.

It was besieged during the Peasants' Revolt in 1381, and was used as a prison following the dissolution of the Abbey in 1539.

It housed the third printing press in England, from 1479.

Since 1871 it has been a part of St Albans School. The gateway marks the end of Romeland and the start of Abbey Mill Lane. Located next to St Albans Abbey and also next to the bishop's Private Residence (Abbey Gate House) the gateway is a good way to spot Abbey Mill Lane.

Tradition claims that a monastery was founded here in 793 by King Offa of Mercia. We know little of this early foundation other than that it was a double house of both men and women and that it followed the rule of St Benedict.

St Albans Cathedral, sometimes called the Cathedral and Abbey Church of St Alban, and referred to locally as "the Abbey". Much of its architecture dates from Norman times. It ceased to be an abbey in the 16th century and became a cathedral in 1877. Although legally a cathedral church, it differs in certain particulars from most other cathedrals in England: it is also used as a parish church, of which the dean is rector with the same powers, responsibilities and duties as that of any other parish.

Probably founded in the 8th century, the present building is Norman or Romanesque architecture of the 11th century, with Gothic and 19th-century additions.

Much of the current layout and proportions of the structure date from the first Norman abbot, Paul of Caen (1077–1093). The 14th abbot, he was appointed by his uncle, the new Archbishop of Canterbury, Lanfranc.

Building work started in the year of Abbot Paul's arrival. The design and construction was overseen by the Norman Robert the Mason. The plan has very limited Anglo-Saxon elements and is clearly influenced by the French work at Cluny, Bernay and Caen, and shares a similar floor plan to Saint-Étienne and Lanfranc's Canterbury — although the poorer quality building material was a new challenge for Robert and he clearly borrowed some Roman techniques, which were learned while gathering material in Verulamium. To take maximum use of the hilltop the abbey was oriented to the south-east. The cruciform abbey was the largest built in England at that time, it had a chancel of four bays, a transept containing seven apses, and a nave of ten bays — fifteen bays long overall. Robert gave particular attention to solid foundations, running a continuous wall of layered bricks, flints and mortar below and pushing the foundations down to twelve feet to hit bedrock. Below the crossing tower special large stones were used.

The tower was a particular triumph — it is the only 11th century great crossing tower still standing in England. Robert began with special thick supporting walls and four massive brick piers. The four-level tower tapers at each stage with clasping buttresses on the three lower levels and circular buttresses on the fourth stage. The entire structure masses 5,000 tons and is 144 feet high. The tower was probably topped with a Norman pyramidal roof; the current roof is flat. The original ringing chamber had five bells — two paid for by the Abbot, two by a wealthy townsman, and one donated by the rector of Hoddesdon. None of these bells has survived.

There was a widespread belief that the abbey had two additional, smaller towers at the west end. No remains have been found.

The monastic abbey was completed in 1089 but not consecrated until Holy Innocents' Day, 1115, (28 Dec) by the Archbishop of Rouen. King Henry I attended as did many bishops and nobles.

Seven statues of martyrs, sculpted by Rory Young and installed in the niches of the medieval nave screen in 2015

An earthquake shook the abbey in 1250 and damaged the eastern end of the church. In 1257 the dangerously cracked sections were knocked down — three apses and two bays. The thick Presbytery wall supporting the tower was left. The rebuilding and updating was completed during the rule of Abbot Roger de Norton (1263–90).

On 10 October 1323 two piers on the south side of the nave collapsed dragging down much of the roof and wrecking five bays. Mason Henry Wy undertook the rebuilding, matching the Early English style of the rest of the bays but adding distinctly 14th century detailing and ornaments. The shrine to St Amphibalus had also been damaged and it was remade.

The Rose Window.

The magnificently coloured glass by Alan Younger was added to Grimthorpe's north transept rose window and unveiled in 1989 by Diana, Princess of Wales.

Saint Amphibalus is a venerated early Christian priest said to have converted Saint Alban to Christianity. He occupied a place in British hagiography almost as revered as Saint Alban himself.According to many hagiographical accounts, including those of Gildas, Bede, Geoffrey of Monmouth, and Matthew of Paris, Amphibalus was a Roman Christian fleeing religious persecution under Emperor Diocletian. Saint Amphibalus was offered shelter by Saint Alban in the Roman city of Verulamium, in modern-day England. Saint Alban was so impressed with the priest's faith and teaching that he began to emulate him in worship, and eventually became a Christian himself. When Roman soldiers came to seize St. Amphibalus, Alban put on Amphibalus' robes and was punished in his place. According to Matthew Paris, after St. Alban's martyrdom, the Romans eventually caught and martyred Amphibalus as well.

The Shrine of St Alban is a site of national Pilgrimage and people have been coming here for over 1700 years. It is used as a place of prayer and stillness by visitors every day.

From the Watching Loft, monks and townsmen kepts guard over Alban's Shrine.

The Bell Tower.

St Albans is the only major church in England with a great crossing tower of the 11th century still standing.

I leave the Cathedral behind, Id loved to have had more time to spend there, but time was pressing.

I walk on up into the city, here like any other city it had its share of homeless begging.

Clock Tower

Built between 1403 and 1412, the Clock Tower is the only medieval town belfry in England and is designated as a Scheduled Ancient Monument. The tower with its fine bell has survived over 600 years of use. The Clock Tower was first and foremost a political statement. The townspeople used it to assert their freedom, power and wealth in the face of the premier Benedictine Abbey of England (now St Albans Cathedral).

The Clock Tower was first and foremost a political statement. The townspeople used it to assert their freedom, power and wealth in the face of the premier Benedictine Abbey of England (now St Albans Cathedral). The Tower allowed the town to sound its own hours and, until 1863, the Curfew. It also gave the alarm in case of 'fire or fray' - its bell rang out for the first Battle of St Albans during the Wars of the Roses in 1455. You can climb to the top of the Tower and enjoy magnificent views of St Albans, therefore, DISABLED ACCESS is difficult as there is a restricted entrance and 93 narrow steps to the top.

Sadly it didn't appear to be open today.

I walk pass The Snug, The Fleur de Lys (or Lis) was a public house in French Row, St Albans, Hertfordshire, England. The building has a C18th brick facade, but it dates from the Middle Ages and is listed grade II with Historic England.[The building was refurbished and renamed "The Snug" in 2007, to become part of the Snug bar chain.

After a walk about the town, I head into The Snug for a half of Maltsmiths IPA. £2.95 for a half!

I head back down towards the Cathedral and along Romeland Hill.

At the bottom of Romeland Hill which became Fishpool Street I walk onto St Michaels Street and up to The Waffle House located within the 16th Century, Grade II listed Kingsbury watermill overlooking the River Ver in St Albans.

Another mill and accompanying miller’s house well worth a visit. The museum containing the mill workings – and the waffle house restaurant in the mill – are open most days.

This was the Abbot’s malt mill, in the parish of St Michael’s, St Albans, and passed into Sir Francis Bacon’s family at Gorhambury after the Dissolution of the Monasteries. The present building is Tudor, with a later Georgian brick façade, but the site is probably one of the thee St`Albans mills mentioned in the Domesday book. Milling for flour and then animal foodstuffs continued until the mid 20th century. In 1973, the mill was turned into a working mill museum, waffle house and gift shop.

I walk back up the road and onto Branch Road before turning left onto Verulam Road and up to the roundabout. I cross over and I'm back on the Old Roman Road. I walk up this busy road for quite a way.

I take a turning I thought that would lead me to Butlers Farm, but It soon appeared I had turned off a little too early. Oh well I pressed on and walked about some farmland before walking through WindmillHill Wood.