On Saturday the 11th April 2026 we caught a 730am flight from London Stansted to Prague airport. After a 20 minute queue through the new EES system taking photo, fingerprints and answering a few questions we were through. I booked a Bolt cab on the app and we were at the Ibis Wenceslas Square hotel in 40 minutes. Our room was ready and we were in the room by 12 noon. We then walked down to Muzeum Metro station bought our 3 day travel passes and caught the metro to the Staroměstská stop.
We walk down Kaprova and pass the La Bodeguita del Medio Praha, a Cuban restaurant with a lovely 1949 Buick Super Eight sedan parked outside.
There was a large Police presence in the city as a protest was going on.
When encountering a much larger crowd of blockers chanting slogans such as “Jesus would have walked with us” and “Her body, her choice”, small groups of ultra-conservatives usually simply left from elsewhere – accompanied by heavy-duty men. The contacts between the groups remained non-violent, with feminists always trying to simply outrun conservatives with balloons and chant. In any case, the number of people mobilised by the Prague is Feminist collective on the streets significantly exceeded the number of people marching against abortion.
We reach the Old Town Square, that still had a Easter Market on. Today was the last day of the market.
We walk around and see the Astronomical Clock that Prague is famous for.
The Prague Astronomical Clock is the world’s most famous Medieval clock. It was built in 1410 by the clock makers Mikuláš of Kadaň and Jan Šindel. However, until 1961, when a document was found revealing the real identities of the authors of the Astronomical Clock, it was believed that this masterpiece had been made by the clock master Hanuš. The legend also recounts that the author believed to be responsible for this masterpiece, Hanuš, was blinded by Prague Councillors when they discovered that he was making an even better clock for another city. The clock was repaired by Jan Taborský during the sixteenth century.
The Astronomical Clock is located on the southern wall of the Old Town City Hall. More about this clock when we visit it again on day 3 of our trip, when we watch the show on the hour.
Near the clock is a place called 'The House at the Minute'.
This building, part of the Old Town Hall complex, is a typical example of Czech Renaissance townhouse architecture. The facade, decorated with sgraffito, depicts scenes drawn from biblical and mythological sources, as well as contemporary Renaissance legends. Franz Kafka and his parents lived here from 1889 to 1896.
The house was about to be demolished, together with the neighbouring Pecoldovský House, in order to align the block of houses between the Old Town Square and the Small Square (Malé náměstí). Luckily, a Committee for listing the constructional, artistic and historical monuments of the Capital City of Prague was against it, and when some sgraffitoes were discovered on the neighbouring house in 1905, a decision was made that both houses would remain where they were.
Here in the square is also the Central Gallery. Sophisticated, 3-story museum featuring Andy Warhol, Salvador Dali & Alfons Mucha exhibitions.
We had a mooch about the Easter Market and much like most Christmas Markets it was full of overpriced Food and craft stalls.
As we leave the square on Staroměstské nám is Samba Tour Prague that do Car tours of Prague.
Outside is a Citroën Traction Avant.
The Citroën Traction Avant (French for "front-wheel drive") is a revolutionary automobile produced by the French manufacturer Citroën from 1934 to 1957. Designed by André Lefèbvre and Flaminio Bertoni, it was one of the first mass-produced cars to feature a unibody (monocoque) chassis, four-wheel independent suspension, and front-wheel drive, making it a major milestone in automotive history.
As we walk towards the river we pass by The Church of the Holy Ghost in the Josefov district.
The Church of the Holy Ghost (Kostel svatého Ducha) is a historic Gothic, later Baroque-style church located in Prague's Old Town near the Jewish Quarter, situated between Široká, Dušní, and Eliška Krásnohorská streets. Originally part of a convent, it is known for its single-aisle design, a 35.5-metre high tower, and a distinct white exterior.
Next to the church is a statue of Franz Kalfa.
A statue of Franz Kafka by artist Jaroslav Róna was installed on Vězeňská street in the Jewish Quarter of Prague, Czech Republic in December 2003. It depicts Franz Kafka riding on the shoulders of a headless figure, in reference to the author's 1912 story "Description of a Struggle" (Beschreibung eines Kampfes).
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A beautiful 1962 Cadillac Coupe DeVille. |
A bit further on we see another classic car outside The Hangar Bar Prague is a stylish establishment with the original atmosphere of 1940-60´s aviation. It combines the style and beauty of the pioneering Pan Am Airlines in the upper-floor Pilot’s Lounge with the recklessness of the stunt and military pilots in the Hangar Club placed on the bottom floor. In Hangar Bar Prague you can enjoy your cocktail and meal in peace, or experience a wild atmosphere with the show going on till the morning hours. The Hangar Cocktail Bar, Music Club and Restaurant is located in the popular cocktail-bar quarter in Dušní 9, Prague 1.
We reach the River Vltava and walk up to the Cech Bridge.
Čech Bridge is the tenth Prague bridge over the Vltava River. It is 16 metres wide and 169 metres long and is the shortest bridge in Prague.
We take a stroll alongside the river in the sunshine.
Above the river on the far bank is the Hanavský Pavilion.
One of the most impressive Art Nouveau structures in the city, it was originally built as the representative pavilion of the Komárov Ironworks for the Prague Jubilee Exhibition in 1891. It was the first cast iron structure in Prague, and today it’s a luxury restaurant with one of the most beautiful panoramic views of the Prague bridges.
Further along we have views up to Prague Castle which we will visit tomorrow.
We can see the famous Charles Bridge as we walk on a bit further.
Charles Bridge is a medieval stone arch bridge that crosses the Vltava river in Prague, Czech Republic. Its construction started in 1357 under the auspices of King Charles IV, and finished in the early 15th century. The bridge replaced the old Judith Bridge built 1158–1172 that had been severely damaged by a flood in 1342. This new bridge was originally called Stone Bridge (Kamenný most) or Prague Bridge (Pražský most), but has been referred to as "Charles Bridge" since 1870.
As the only means of crossing the river Vltava until 1841, Charles Bridge was the most important connection between Prague Castle and the city's Old Town and adjacent areas. This land connection made Prague important as a trade route between Eastern and Western Europe. The bridge is located on the historic coronation route of the Bohemian kings.
This bridge is always busy but its a Saturday afternoon and is silly busy!
The bridge is 516 metres (1,693 ft) long and nearly 10 metres (33 ft) wide. Following the example of the Stone Bridge in Regensburg, it was built as a bow bridge with 16 arches shielded by ice guards. It is protected by three bridge towers, two on the Lesser Quarter side (including the Malá Strana Bridge Tower) and one on the Old Town side, the Old Town Bridge Tower. The bridge is decorated by a continuous alley of 30 statues and statuaries, most of them baroque-style, originally erected around 1700, but now all have been replaced by replicas.
The bridge is currently undergoing a twenty-year process of structural inspections, restoration, and repairs. The process started in late 2019, and is expected to cost 45–60 million CZK (US$1.9–2.6 million).
We make our way over the bridge to the halfway mark.
Throughout its history, Charles Bridge has suffered several disasters and witnessed many historic events. Czech legend has it that construction began on Charles Bridge at 5:31am on 9 July 1357 with the first stone being laid by Charles IV himself. This exact time was very important to the Holy Roman Emperor because he was a strong believer in numerology and felt that this specific time, which formed a palindrome (1357 9/7 5:31), was a numerical bridge, and would imbue Charles Bridge with additional strength. The bridge was completed 45 years later in 1402. A flood in 1432 damaged three pillars. In 1496 the third arch (counting from the Old Town side) broke down after one of the pillars lowered, being undermined by the water (repairs were finished in 1503). A year after the Battle of White Mountain, when the 27 leaders of the anti-Habsburg revolt were executed on 21 June 1621, the Old Town Bridge Tower served as a deterrent display of the severed heads of the victims to stop Czechs from further resistance. During the end of the Thirty Years' War in 1648, the Swedes occupied the west bank of the Vltava, and as they tried to advance into the Old Town the heaviest fighting took place right on the bridge. During the fighting, they severely damaged one side of the Old Town bridge tower (the side facing the river) and the remnants of almost all gothic decorations had to be removed from it afterward. During the late 17th century and early 18th century the bridge gained its typical appearance when an alley of baroque statues was installed on the pillars. During a great flood in 1784, five pillars were severely damaged and, although the arches did not break down, the traffic on the bridge had to be greatly restricted for some time.
We walk back over the bridge and down Karlova.
Murals and wall paintings of The Good Soldier Švejk (Josef Švejk), the famous satirical character by Jaroslav Hašek, are found in Prague, frequently decorating the entrances of traditional Czech restaurants. Specific stencil street art and murals appear in the Old Town (Staré Město) and Lesser Town districts, often featuring the character with the slogan "I love everybody".
Here above is the 'Man Hanging Out' - David Černý's Statue of Sigmund Freud.
First created in 1996, the work known as "Zavěšený muž" ("Man Hanging Out") is the vision of Czech sculptor David Černý, whose work can actually be found all across Prague. Many of Cerny's works are seen as somewhat deliberately provocative, and this one is no different. The dangling Freud is surprisingly lifelike at a distance, and a number of people have sincerely taken it for a person in danger. However, it is simply a sculptural statement about intellectualism in the 20th century and Černý's uncertainty about it.
The piece, even if it was somewhat controversial, was still quite popular after its unveiling and was able to tour the world, being displayed in places ranging from London to Grand Rapids, Michigan.
However, the piece is back in Prague, hanging extended over a tight, historic street, causing passersby to look away from the ancient surrounds and take a look up to ponder the future. With luck, Freud won't be coming down anytime soon, and neither will 20th-century intellectualism.
We walk on through the city and find another David Cerny sculpture., 'Butterfly Effect 'by David Cerny.
It is an innovative art installation located on the facade of the Máj Národní department store in Prague. Unveiled in 2024, it features monumental butterflies designed from Spitfire fighter planes, symbolizing a tribute to Czechoslovak pilots who served in WWII. The dynamic visual effects created by changing colours and moving wings captivate visitors, making it a highlight of public art that bridges tradition with modernity.
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| Franz Kafka - Rotating Head by David Cerny |
Just around the Corner from the last David Cerny piece is another! We stop here for a coffee at Starbucks whilst we wait for the on the hour show.
The Head of Franz Kafka, created by controversial artist David Černý, is a monumental kinetic sculpture located in Prague, Czech Republic. Installed in 2014, the piece stands 10.6 metres tall and weighs approximately 39 tons, representing the complex and shifting identity of the famous author.
The sculpture consists of 42 independently rotating layers of mirror-polished stainless steel. Each layer can rotate 360 degrees, driven by a complex system of motors and a kilometre of cables.
The constant movement and fragmentation of the face are widely seen as a metaphor for Kafka's "Metamorphosis", his inner self-doubt, and the feeling of being a "cog in the machine" of society.
Performance Schedule: The head typically "comes to life" at the top of every hour (usually from 8:00 AM to 9:00 PM), with the rotation sequence lasting about 15 minutes.
We walk a short distance on to visit the Lucerna Palace shopping arcade.
One of the most interesting modern Prague palazzos was built between 1907—1920. The investor, organizer and constructor, rolled into one, was ing. Václav Havel, entrepreneur, whose grandson — Václav Havel — later became President.
The most famous "horse" by David Černý is the provocative statue titled "
Kůň" (The Horse), which depicts Saint Wenceslas sitting on the belly of an upside-down, dead horse suspended from the ceiling. Created in 1999, it is a mocking parody of the iconic equestrian statue of the same saint located in Wenceslas Square.
Although it looks like bronze, it is actually made of lightweight polystyrene foam and epoxy.
We walk up the staircase with the beautiful Art Nouveau Stained glass glowing above to get a photo of the Horse Statue from above.
We leave the Lucerna Palace and walk to Wenceslas Square.
Sadly the square is undergoing renovations on our visit.
Wenceslas Square s a 750-metre-long, bustling boulevard in the heart of Prague’s New Town, serving as a major commercial, social, and historical centre. Originally a 14th-century horse market, it is now a vibrant hub for shopping, nightlife, and culture, featuring the National Museum and the iconic St. Wenceslas statue.
A significant meeting point, this monument features the patron saint of Bohemia on horseback, surrounded by other Czech saints.
The square is lined with hotels, restaurants, bars, and international brands, making it a major commercial centre.
Located at the top of the square, this prominent landmark offers extensive history and natural science exhibitions.
Wenceslas Square in Prague, established in 1348 by Charles IV as the "Horse Market", served as a major medieval trading hub for horses and agricultural goods. Today, it is a 750-metre-long, 60-metre-wide commercial boulevard featuring the iconic 1913 St. Wenceslas equestrian statue.
We made it back to the hotel for an afternoon nap after a very early start this morning.
We head out later for dinner and visit The Pub Praha 2 on Hálkova.
Its busy with stag parties with tables with beer taps on them!
I have burger and Mel the Chicken Schnitzel, a pint and a half of Pilsner Urquell and all for a measley £20 ish!
We head back to the Charles Bridge to capture it by night, a lot quieter now!
Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, is a top European destination known for its stunning Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque architecture, earning it the nickname "City of a Hundred Spires". With a population of about 1.4 million, it offers a romantic atmosphere, vibrant beer culture, and a rich history preserved in its UNESCO-listed historic centre.
Prague has been the capital of the historical region of Bohemia for centuries and served as the seat of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV. It has been a significant cultural and political centre, transitioning from a medieval royal city to a communist-era hub, and now to a vibrant, popular tourist capital.
The Calvary monument (also known as the Statuary of the Holy Crucifix and Calvary) is one of the most historically significant and controversial sculptures on Charles Bridge in Prague. Located on the third pillar of the north side, it is the oldest surviving statuary site on the bridge, with a cross standing there in some form since the 14th century.
We head back to the hotel for the night, a good first day in Prague!
