My Adventures 3: Fat Man of Maldon

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On Wednesday the 17th of March 2021,I got to get out for a walk and catch up with my good friend Dan who I haven't seen for months due to lockdown rules.

So I park up in the Car park in Butt Lane, Maldon (CM9 5HD) and we set off towards the High Street.

We pass St Peters Church.

We walk down into Kings Courtyard beside The Kings Head Centre to find the Fat Man of Maldon Plaque.

Edward Bright (1721–1750) was a grocer in Maldon, Essex, known as the "fat man of Maldon" — who was reputed at the time of his death in 1750 to be the "fattest man in England". He lived in a house on Maldon's High Street, and is buried in Maldon's Church of All Saints.

Bright weighed 47.5 stone (665 lb or 302 kg).

His coat was said to be large enough to have seven men stand inside it, although this is also sometimes stated as seven hundred men because of a tale in which a man in a local pub tempted a gambler with a bet that "seven hundred men" would fit into Edward Bright's waistcoat. The bet was accepted. The gambler lost, because seven men from the Dengie Hundred (a parcel of land) fit into the waistcoat.

In 2000, a bronze relief of seven men in Bright's coat, by sculptor Catharni Stern, was installed at the King's Head Centre off Maldon's High Street, near the site of Bright's home.

We leave the courtyard and walk off back down the High Street.

We head down Market Hill and its pretty houses.

The place-name Maldon is first attested in 913 in the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle, where it appears as Maeldun. Maldon's name comes from mǣl meaning 'monument or cross' and dūn meaning 'hill', so translates as 'monument hill'. East Saxons settled the area in the 5th century and the area to the south is still known as the Dengie Peninsula after the Dæningas. It became a significant Saxon port with a hythe or quayside and artisan quarters. Evidence of imported pottery from this period has been found in archaeological digs. From 958 there was a royal mint issuing coins for the late Anglo-Saxon and early Norman kings.

A bit of early Spring Colour in the local park.

We reach the River Chelmer and turn right to follow the footpath to Promenade Park.

We reach Hythe Quay and pass The Queens Head, really hope all these pubs are open again soon!

In the past, Thames Barges would leave the Hythe carrying foodstuffs and bedding straw to London returning with cargos of horse manure for the district farms. Fishing vessels left their moorings by the bath wall in search of eels, place, sole, whelks and winkles in the estuary.

Some of the old fishermen’s homes still remain and can still be seen in a row facing the quay.

At the north end of the Hythe was the boat building yard of John Howard whose house is still standing. Howard built more than twenty sailing barges and other craft during his working years.

The other end of the Hythe was home to Cooks boatyard where among many others, the barge Dawn was originally built. Ships laden with timber and other materials would pass the Hythe destined for Sadd’s wharf just a little further along the river on the north side of Fulbridge wharf. Other vessels carried grain for the flour mills at Fullbridge.

The Hythe is home to two public houses; The Queens Head sits on the quay while the Jolly Sailor is on slightly higher ground at the bottom of Church St.

HYDROGEN (1906)

The days when Hydrogen carried her cargoes under sail in all weathers on the East Coast seem far from the balmy times enjoyed by her guests today. Built in 1906, she is the largest surviving wooden barge, a Coaster who’s fine lines and sturdy construction are a great example of the shipwright’s craft.

During WWII, Hydrogen was sent to the Clyde to work as a supply ship and around that time her engine was fitted. For the Queens Silver Jubilee, she joined the river Pageant as a motor barge, carrying a large golden lion on deck. Hydrogen finished in trade in 1976 and in the early 1980’s was bought by Bells Whisky and converted back to sail. Bells took her on an annual UK circumnavigation to promote their brands – so she became a regular visitor at many ports and became known as the “Whisky Barge”.

In 1992 Bells sold her and Hydrogen came to Maldon to join the Topsail Fleet of barges. In 2012 she once again took part in the Queens Jubilee, representing Essex for the day.

After over a century under sail, the Hydrogen continues to work to earn her living and is actively preserved as part of our national maritime heritage.

Brent is the last surviving steam vessel of the Port of London Authority's fleet and one of only three steam vessels left of many which were once in use on the River Thames and in the London Docks' system.

She is one of only three steam 'TID' class tugs left in Britain, of 182 built for the Admiralty as part of the War effort mostly by women, using pioneering all welded flate plate construction.

Brent is a classic small 'Lighterage' steam tug, a rare survivor of many hundreds which once worked around British and overseas dockyards, ports, coasts and rivers. She is now one of only four of this class left in the U.K.

Saved from scrap in 1970, Brent was rescued and cared for by the Hall family of Maldon, Essex who used her as a holiday 'tug yacht' for nearly 40 years until the need for major repairs caused her to be laid up. She was donated by the family to us the Steam Tug Brent Trust a registered charity in 2011.

We walk on through Promenade Park and look back at the perfect view, I never tire off!

Avenues of mature trees and recreation areas lead down to the ornamental lake complete with fountains and resident swans and other birds and wildlife. Smaller children will love the sand pit which is located at one end of the lake. The pit is adjacent to one of the many refreshment kiosks in the park so you can relax with a cup of tea and watch the kids enjoying themselves. There is also an oyster and seafood bar which is open weekends and bank holidays.

At the opposite end of the lake you will find more refreshment kiosks and the main conveniences. Beyond this is, The Valley in Promenade Park is home to Maldon's famous Splash Park.

The you pass The Galleon play area for kids before we reach the statue of Byrhtnoth.

Byrhtnoth was Ealdorman of Essex who died on 11 August 991 at the Battle of Maldon. His name is composed of the Old English beorht (bright) and noð (courage).

I'll cover the Battle of Maldon later on when we reach Northey Island.

We walk on leaving Promenade park and all the people to walk in peace in the desolate eeriness of the Estuary.

We pass a bird hide that Dan runs up, I'm saving my energy and stay down below.

After much walking along a muddy and slippery path we reach the causeway to Northey Island.

It's worth noting you must obtain a permit from The National Trust to allow access to the island.

Please email northeyisland@nationaltrust.org.uk to arrange a visit.

Northey was to become the oldest recorded battlefield in Britain when Viking raiders used the island as a base during the Battle of Maldon in AD991, an encounter also mentioned in England's earliest known poem.

Today the island's a little more tranquil and is a peaceful haven for wildlife, which can be seen and heard from our waymarked trail. Having arranged access, crossing the causeway at low tide is still an exhilarating experience. In winter the estuary and the surrounding fields on our farm are teaming with thousands of waders and wildfowl. These can be seen and heard from the river wall as access is restricted to the island, when our pastureland shelters up to 5,000 Brent geese, along with redshank, curlew and plover.

We walk across the causeway to the island. Make sure you check the tide table to ensure you don't get cut off.

The Battle of Maldon took place on 11 August 991 AD beside the River Blackwater in Essex, during the reign of Æthelred the Unready. Earl Byrhtnoth and his thegns led the English against a Viking invasion. The battle ended in an Anglo-Saxon defeat. After the battle Archbishop Sigeric of Canterbury and the aldermen of the south-western provinces advised King Æthelred to buy off the Vikings rather than continue the armed struggle. The result was a payment of 10,000 Roman pounds (3,300 kg) of silver, the first example of Danegeld in England.

At the time of battle, English royal policy of responding to Viking incursions was split. Some favoured paying off the Viking invaders with land and wealth, while others favoured fighting to the last man. The poem suggests that Byrhtnoth held this latter attitude, hence his moving speeches of patriotism.

The Vikings sailed up the Blackwater (then called the Panta), and Byrhtnoth called out his levy. The poem begins with him ordering his men to stand and to hold weapons. His troops, except for personal household guards, were local farmers and villagers of the Essex Fyrd militia. He ordered them to "send steed away and stride forwards": they arrived on horses but fought on foot. The Vikings sailed up to a small island in the river. At low tide, the river leaves a land bridge from this island to the shore; the description seems to have matched the Northey Island causeway at that time. This would place the site of the battle about two miles southeast of Maldon. Olaf addressed the Saxons, promising to sail away if he was paid with gold and armour from the lord. Byrhtnoth replied, "We will pay you with spear tips and sword blades."

With the ebb of the tide, Olaf's forces began an assault across the small land bridge. Three Anglo-Saxon warriors, Wulfstan, Ælfhere and Maccus blocked the bridge, successfully engaging any Vikings who pressed forward. The Viking commander requested that Byrhtnoth allow his troops onto the shore for formal battle. Byrhtnoth, for his ofermōde , let the enemy force cross to the mainland. Battle was joined, but an Englishman called Godrīc fled riding Byrhtnoth's horse. Godrīc's brothers Godwine and Godwīg followed him. Then many English fled, recognizing the horse and thinking that its rider was Byrhtnoth fleeing. To add insult to injury, it is stated that Godric had often been given horses by Byrhtnoth, a detail that, especially during the time period, would have had Godric marked as a coward and a traitor, something that could have easily been described as worse than death. The Vikings overcame the Saxons after losing many men, killing Byrhtnoth. After the battle Byrhtnoth's body was found with its head missing, but his gold-hilted sword was still with his body.

We pass a locked Bird hide and walk on a little further.

What an scary sight it must to been seeing a fleet of Viking ships sailing up the river!

We reach a bench where we stop for lunch with views across to Maldon.

We reach Northey House, which can be rented as a holiday let.

The cottage has five bedrooms and is made up of 3 twin bedded rooms, 1 double bedroom and 1 double bunk room. It is a wonderful location for a large family holiday, offering a wide range of things to do. Children will love the freedom and adventure of roaming over the whole island. The cottage is also a wonderful location for those wishing to just get away from it all, and they will appreciate its peaceful and private location.

We follow the footpath around the island and eventually arrive back at the causeway. relieved to see the tide hasn't cover it yet. The causeway is only available two hours either side of High Tide. It has started to rain lightly.

We cross the causeway and walk up South House Farm Road to South House Farm. It was here in the fields around that the battle would have taken place.

We take a footpath past the farm that leads into Park Drive which we follow for a short way pass Maldon & Tiptree FC before turning right down a road and back into Promenade Park.

We stop at The cafe and Dan buys us a Tea and sausage roll and we find ourselves finding a archway to sit in out of the rain.

We walk on and reach St Mary The Virgin Church.

It is believed a church has existed on this site since Saxon times.

Saxon churches were rebuilt by Norman craftsmen after the Conquest and it is recorded that the third church of St Mary Maldon was completed in 1130

The tower was added in 1300 but collapsed in 1605 also damaging the church. Due to the importance of this landmark to mariners a petition was sent to King Charles I. It was successful and work to rebuild the tower in red brick and repair the damage to the church was completed in 1636

A beacon was was lit at the top of the tower to guide ships returning home to the Hythe. The addition of the white shingled spire in 1740 further increased the height and visibility to mariners.

Further restoration works were completed in 1886 which included work to a new chancel and north isle. A new roof was added with massive Baltic timbers carrying thousands of tiles from the old roof. In more recent years the church was enhanced by the addition of a new window in the south wall commemorating the battle of Maldon in 991. In the latter part of 2015, a new pipe organ was installed on the west wall.

As we enter we can see and hear a man playing with his organ.

We leave the church and head up the road and back up to the High Street.

We pass the Moot Hall.

The Moot Hall Maldon is a unique Grade I listed heritage building.

Thought to have been built around 1420 the tower is part of a brick-built extension to an existing timber manor house known as D’arcy Mansion – the family home of Sir Robert D’arcy (1391-1448)

The building forming a tower now consists of three floors, of brick construction laid in English bond, with walls at least 2ft thick and a lead roof.

Over 600 years there has been at least two periods of dereliction, that we know of, followed by considerable restoration. There are few clues to its original size, shape and design but it is thought that the Mansion was considerably larger and this Tower is the only surviving portion.