South West Coast Path: Sec 3 Lynton to Ilfracombe 25th April 2022

On Monday the 25th April 2022 I drove back to Lynton in North Devon where I finished my last walk on the South West Coast Path back in September last year.

I arrived in Lynton after a four and a quarter hour drive and parked up in Lydiate Lane where I parked for free and left there till late the next day.

I intended originally to backpack my tent and camp out but at 13.5kg this seemed heavy for the walk ahead and I'm so glad I didn't and opted to book a bed in Ilfracombe. Again I wished I hadn't as I had no choice but to make it to Ilfracombe and not stop earlier. 

I walked down Lydiate lane and up Cross Street and out opposite Lynton Town Hall now a wedding venue.

The building was built and given to the community by Sir George Newnes on August 15th 1900. Designed by Read & Macdonald of London this superb Grade II listed building is a unique mixture of manorial, Gothic and Tudor styles. The building is Constructed of local stone and oak by a local builder, the structure retains its unusual originality both outside and within.

I walk about trying to find where the path starts, I reach the top of the cliff railway and staff there point me to a path that will led me down to join the path.

Path lined both side with wild garlic, the smell of garlic fills the air as I brush pass.

A narrow path runs past the North Cliff Hotel and out onto a tarmac path into The Valley of the Rocks.

One theory suggests that the East Lyn River originally flowed here, before joining the sea further west. The river eroded the channel forming the valley, parallel to the coastline. The cliffs would have extended further north, but been claimed by the powerful sea waves over the years. Eventually, the river would have broken through, diverting its course directly into the sea, leaving the old course dry.

Another theory dates back to the Ice Age, suggesting that originally the Lyn River may have taken a similar course to what we see today. The arrival of a vast ice sheet blocked the valley mouth, forming a giant lake. Eventually overflowing, water carved a new channel – the Valley of the Rocks. Once the ice retreated, the river reverted to its original route, leaving the Valley of the Rocks drained dry.

Both theories are plausible, coming some way to explaining the unusual landscape we are presented with. We may never be truly certain of the explanation, perhaps adding the mystery of this dramatic place.

I walk along the easy going path, enjoying the sound of the sea crashing below, the smell of salt in the fresh air and the rising sun. Pure bliss to be back on the path again.

As I turn a corner I get my first view of Castle Rock.

I've seen pictures of wild goats on others posts but no luck for me today.

Castle Rock is 138.9 metres high with a prominence of 50 metres. The summit can be identified by: rock Additional Notes: East tower is c.15cm lower.

This is part of R. D. Blackmore’s Lorna Doone territory and the landscape is so extraordinary that legend has explained its origin as the acts of the Devil.

I now meet the road and a turning circle for cars and I follow a track off downhill.

There is a signpost for the beach, but the path runs alongside the road. Another sign points to Mother Meldrum's Cave but I have a long walk and stay on track. Now the path heads steeply uphill to a Toll Road above.

I walk through the Toll Gates and along the road.

My first lambs of the this Spring!

Up above Lee Abbey were three crosses on the hilltop. Are they planning a crucifixion?

Lee Abbey is home to a Christian Community and is a conference and outdoor centre.

In 500 AD the Saxons Christianity came to Britain, as the North Devon coast was raided by the Danes. Saxon manors appeared at Lynton and Countisbury.

In 1199 Henry de Tracey, a Norman knight, gave the manors to the Cistercian Abbots of Forde Abbey in Dorset and they held the land for about 340 years, possibly building a farmhouse where Lee Abbey now is.

In 1850 Lee Abbey as we know it today was built. Gothic style was definitely in fashion, and the House was just the ticket. Where the Dining Room is now there was a huge conservatory, and the Octagonal Lounge was the music room. Squire Bailey himself carved some of the wood in the Library and Small Lounge fireplaces. He was also responsible for planting a lot of the trees and creating many of the paths you see here today.

I walk down the hill towards Lee Bay.

The road follows on and passes a honesty box of £2 for cars using the toll road.

Here was Lee Abbey Tea Cottage but this appeared closed at this time.

The path and road heads back up again now.

The path further up splits, one way around Crock Point or stay on the road and avoid the slight detour, I opted to avoid Crock Point.

I walk across farmland with views across the Ocean.

I walk through a wood and into Woody Bay.

The woodland track runs out at West Cottage and I turn left for the Coast Path or for America as the signpost above indicates.

I follow the road up and then climb up a stony woodland path,

I stop on a bench overlooking Woody Bay and light my stove to make a coffee. I clearly hadn't screwed the gas cannister on properly, because as I lit it, the stove was engulfed in flames! I was kicking the stove about trying to get to the valve to shut off the gas before I set the woods alight. I managed to get my hands in amongst the flames and got it switched off. Gas cannister on properly I made myself a brew.

I set off along the path and through trees that bend over the path, as the shelter from the fierce winds that blow in from the Atlantic.

I cross over Hollow Brook by a little waterfall.

I rise back up and onto an open slope on the cliffs.

The path is lined with heather not yet in bloom ,must look amazing when its out!

I now reach Heddons Mouth after much walking.

The path heads steeply back downhill to sea level.

I stop at the stone bridge and contemplate if I should divert up to The Hunters Inn for a drink. Well I'm only here once so I walk the extra half mile up and of course half mile back!

I order a Sharps Offshore Pilsner and enjoy it sitting in the sun.

I walk back to the stone bridge and cross turning left and back along the river towards the Hunters Inn again. This didn't feel right so I walked back a short way making sure I hadn't missed  a path but it was right and a path leads up further among. 

The path starts off upwards and gradually gets steeper and steeper as it zig zags upwards.

Looking back down into Heddons Mouth.

As much climbing, I reach the top. Phew that was hard work!

I follow the path along above Elwill Bay.

The path runs East Cleave and onto North Cleave and then inland a bit across a moorland slope through gorse and heather.

The stony path across the Moorland is hard going to walk on.

I descent down the slope to Sherrycombe.

At the bottom I stop at a bridge for a drink and a bite to eat  contemplating the steep climb to the top of Great Hangman.

I slowly make my way up after much stopping and starting this walk is becoming very hard work now and I still have a long way to go to Ilfracombe.

I make it to the summit of Great Hangman the highest point on the South West Coast Path at 318m (1043ft) and also the highest sea cliff in England.

The name has nothing to do with nooses, “hang” deriving from the Celtic for slope, and “man” ultimately from the Sanskrit for hill.

I descend from Great Hangman with a view down to Little Hangman and Combe Martin beyond.

I pass Little Hangman and descend further down towards Combe Martin where I will take a short break.

I make my down down into Combe Martin via a path.

Once in Combe Martin I sit and have a sandwich and drink watching the paddleboarders.

I am envious of the people I met on the path, finishing here in Combe Martin as the guidebook suggests. But I have no option but to press on to Ilfracombe as I have a bed booked there. 

I walk on with tired legs down to another beach and then the path takes me straight back up more steps.

I follow the path past Watermouth Harbour, I'd love to rest again but I have to be in Ilfracombe by 7pm at the latest for book in.

I follow the path along some roads and through Napps Caravan Park and then back out onto the A399.

I come out opposite a Edwardian castle just over the road from the harbour. Watermouth Castle is currently used as a family theme park.

I walk along the pavement and then onto a path behind a walk with views through the trees to the cove.

Watermouth cove offers a very sheltered secluded harbour shielded by the natural breakwater of Sexton's Burrows as well as picture-perfect views.

This has created an ecosystem for many rare marine species attracting many boats to moor there. The bay is located within the hamlet of Watermouth between Hele Bay and Combe Martin.

The path heads up again, worse still up steps! My calves and quads are screaming with pain!

Still the views are nice!

It’s hard to imagine this peaceful corner of Devon and these beautiful beaches saw such explosive activity and harboured so many secrets vital to the success of D-Day, 6th June 1944. Many innovative weapons used in the Normandy beach assaults were tried, tested and perfected here in North Devon as well as the incredible idea of pumping fresh water and petrol in pipes under the English Channel to the French coast. American forces swamped the area in 1943 as they trained in new techniques and prepared to launch the invasion of Europe in the greatest amphibious operation in military history. Soldiers stormed ashore at Woolacombe and Saunton with smoke, live explosives and ammunition recreating the confusion, sounds and smells of combat they would face on the beaches of Normandy. But today listen to the happy squeals of children splashing in the sea where once thousands of US Army soldiers had pounded ashore to perfect their deadly art of war. The US Navy trained their landing craft skippers here too - those that were destined to be the first to hit the Normandy beaches. But all this was overshadowed by the very event it had created and made possible – D-Day 6th June 1944

I walk down steps around Rillage point, every bit as painful as going up, maybe more so!

The path takes you up Hillborough. But I decide I can't do any more climbing so stay on A399 road intp Ilfracombe. But the road climbs steeply up anyway. I am tired, nothing left in the tank, I plod on upwards.

I finally descend down into Ilfracombe Harbour and can see across to Damien Hirst statue Verity.

To the left of the statue is the Chapel of St Nicholas.

Dating back to 1321 the chapel was built as a place of worship for the people of Ilfracombe living and working around the harbour. From the middle ages the chapel maintained a light to guide shipping into the harbour. It is still a working lighthouse today and is said to be the oldest in the country. When Henry VIII dissolved the monasteries in 1540 St Nicholas ceased to be a chapel.

Around 1849 Mr John Davey began living there as lighthouse keeper with is laundress wife Elizabeth raising a family of 14 children. John died in 1870 but the family lived there until 1871when the family moved down to the Quay. The chapel has also been used as a summer reading room but then it remained much neglected until 1962 when it was restored by the Rotarians of the town.

The chapel is today regarded as a special place of interest within the town and is an iconic landmark overlooking the harbour. The old porch has been transformed into a small chancel and occasional services are held there. The chapel is maintained by Ilfracombe Rotary Club and run largely by volunteers. It is free to look around but donations are welcome. All the money raised goes to charity.

I walk around the harbour and can see across to The Landmark Theatre, described as two upside down buckets. I think it looks hideous. 

I finally find Ocean Backpackers where I have a bed booked in a 6 bed dorm. I was only sharing with two others. I dump my stuff, have a quick rest, shower then out to find some dinner and a drink.

‘Verity’ by Damien Hirst

A 66 foot stainless steel and bronze sculpture named Verity, created by world famous artist Damien Hirst, stands on the pier at the entrance to the harbour looking out over the Bristol Channel towards South Wales. It has been loaned to the town for 20 years. The name of the piece refers to “truth” and Hirst describes his work as a “modern allegory of truth and justice”.

On Tuesday 16 October 2012, Verity was hoisted into position giving residents and visitors their first glimpses of her standing tall on Ilfracombe’s Pier.

The statue depicts a pregnant woman holding aloft a sword while carrying the scales of justice and standing on a pile of law books. Half of the sculpture shows the internal anatomy of the pregnant woman, with the foetus clearly visible. The stance has been described as a reference to Little Dancer of Fourteen Years by Edgar Degas, a work that previously inspired Hirst when he created Virgin Morther.

This statue caused some controversy with locals, must admit its not to my taste.

I opt for a Chinese eaten back at the Hostel then a quick pint of Ruby Sunset by Combe Brewing a local beer at the Ship and Pilot Inn and then back for sleep.

A stupid long day, I over estimated the walk and I'm not as young or fit as I once was. Just glad I didn't backpack it!

 

22 miles of walking and **** m of ascent. (Ascent to be filled in once I can get GPS unit to upload to my PC).