My Adventures 3: Tideswell

GPX File Here (note I went wrong on a section and ended up through a no access on YHA Raven Tor, so don't follow this route if you're not happy with this!)

After much planning to walk in Wales, my pal injured himself so I made plans to walk in the Shropshire Hills, after more planning I see the weather was going to be awful! So after checking weather reports I see The Peak District would be okay weather wise. So I made plans to travel up, which was great anyway I love The Peak District. I contacted The Anglers Rest as they allow overnights in their car park, but got a flat NO! So I will drive up anyway I'll find somewhere.

So on Monday the 28th June 2021, I drive up and after a 3 hr 15 min drive I park up in a layby on the B6049, I thought this would be okay if I needed to stay overnight, but as I was walking Chrome Hill the next day, I decided to stay nearer there.

I leave the car and head downhill where I reach the junction with the Anglers Rest.

Millers Dale is a tiny hamlet, set in the heart of the Peak District, sharing its name with the dale in which it lies. The scenery in this part of the Wye Valley is magnificent, with the impressive Ravenstor Cliff only a short distance down the road, on the route to the once infamous Litton Mill. The richness of flora and fauna along the dale sides has resulted in the area being designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest and Derbyshire Wildlife Trust has several nature reserves in the area.

It was once a major junction on the Midland Railway Line, and Millers Dale was one of the largest stations on the line. The original station, opened in 1863, had three platforms, two on the main line for trains between London and Manchester and a bay for the branch line to Buxton. A further two platforms were added when the second viaduct was opened in 1905. It was one of the few stations in England to have a post office on the platform.

Corn mills once operated in profusion along the banks of the Wye, powered by the water from the river. There has probably been a mill at Millers Dale for over 900 years. Domesday Book indicates that a mill existed in this part of the valley at that time.

Miller’s Dale Meal Mill closed in the 1920s and remained derelict until it was demolished some fifty years later, to allow for the sinking of a borehole to supply water to the Chapel-en-le-Frith area. Stone from the original walls was used to house the bore-hole and its machinery. The 150 year old water wheel was restored and placed adjacent to the pumping station. Stone walls enclose the whole site, and an information board has been supplied plus a comfortable seating area.

I pass St Annes Church and walk on along the B6049.

The railway closed in 1968, and the line remained unused for twelve years before being taken over by the Peak National Park. The track has been converted into a walking route, known as the Monsal Trail. It stretches from Wye Dale, near Buxton, to Coombs Road, near Bakewell. Most of the tunnels have been closed, but alternative routes have been provided. The station car park is convenient for those walkers who come by car to explore the magnificent scenery of the Wye Valley. The station itself now houses a Peak Park Rangers Centre and information boards at the station and along the trail have been provided to inform visitors.

The local landmark is the viaduct, first built by the Midland Railway in 1866. Increasing traffic meant that a second viaduct parallel to the first was built in 1905, increasing the number of tracks to four. Millers Dale railway station was at the junction where passengers for Buxton joined or left the trains between London and Manchester.

The twin viaducts at Millers Dale. The left one carries the Monsal Trail.

A short way up I turn right onto a road that leads to the Millers Dale Car park (Pay and Display) and then take a footpath on my left. Here The path splits one upwards to the Monsal Trail, but I take the path downwards to the River Wye.

Now I follow the river away from the road and people, just me and the babbling river beside me.

I walk under another Viaduct that carries The Monsal Trail above.

I am now walking through Chee Dale.

Chee Dale has a protected nature reserve (close to the village of Wormhill), which is overseen by the Derbyshire Wildlife Trust. The reserve contains ash, yew and rock whitebeam woodland on the cliff sides and abundant wild flowers including cowslips, early purple orchids, rock rose and the rare Jacob's ladder. I watch a Dipper bobbing on rocks in the river, and flow low over the river.

Further up, I carefully make my way down the rocky and slippery path to the river again.

I cross the bridge and follow the path back on the other side of the river.

I am now walking through a valley with huge overlooking cliffs either side!

The path, thin at times, clings to the water’s edge, climbs over tree roots, scurries over outcrops of slippery rock and pads across tongues of pebbles and sand. Pools are shaded by the vast leaves of butterbur, and strands of white-flowered water crowfoot drift in the current.

It is an almost tropical, shadow-dancing aspect viewed against occasional glimpses of the summer sky high above.

I shine a light into the small cave, beneath some tree roots. It goes back further than I expected. I was rather apprehensive as I shone a torch in half expecting to see some eyes shining back at me, but it was empty!

A little further up I come across two climbers getting ready to scale the sheer steep sides of these cliffs! I take my hat off to them, no easy task with a huge overhang to contend with too!

Now I reach the famous Chee Dale Stepping stones, I thought they would extend longer through the river than they did however!

The stepping stones hug the base of buttresses and cliffs, dressed by luxuriant vegetation. The tops almost close over you on this truly memorable walk deep within the chasm.

Now off the stones and walking along the bank, I reach a bridge back over the river.

I walk back under the Viaduct and follow a path steeply uphill to the top of the Viaduct where I will reach the Monsal Trail.

Steep steps up to the top.

I reach the top and peer over the edge to the bridge I just crossed below.

I turn right and enter The Chee Dale Tunnel on the Monsal Trail.

It is certainly a lot cooler in the tunnel as I walk beneath the Cliffs above.

The Trail follows the route of the former Manchester, Buxton, Matlock and Midland Junction Railway, which was built by the Midland Railway in 1863 to link Manchester with London and closed in 1968.

The Trail crosses the river again and on the bridge is a huge area marked out, for abseilers only. Well I had to take a look. Non here today, but what a long way down to abseil. Don't know if I'd fancy a go or not!

Just past the bridge, I reach a huge structure on my left, I had no idea what it could be, thankfully a sign next to it explained all!

From 1880 until 1944, the lime kilns in the structure in front of you produced over 50 tonnes of quicklime a day. During the 1800s, the demand for quicklime increased for the growing steel and chemical industries as well as agriculture. To meet this demand, limestone quarries and kilns opened next to railways like this Midland line, now the Monsal Trail. Trucks used to bring in coal to burn in the kilns and take the quicklime away.

Limestone turns to quicklime when it is heated in a kiln (calcined). During the process the stone turns pale and cracks. The end result is quicklime, which is used in cement and mortar, and also by farmers to improve soils. The remains of lime kilns can be seen in many places in the Peak District, such as here on the Monsal Trail.

I walk on and then take a path that leads me back down to the path I took along the river and back towards Millers Dale.

I follow the B6049 back to Millers Dale, past the bridge below.

I pass the Anglers Rest Pub and along the lane towards Litton Mill.

I follow the lane alongside the river Wye, babbling next to me and I saw a couple of trout dancing in the currents.

There is a huge cliff towering over me on my left, and I pass another layby, which would be good for a small vehicle to stay overnight!

I reach the steps below and start to climb, my first error of the day. I should of walked on a hundred metres or so and taken the path up the Tideswell Dale. If you are following this walk igmore my GPX here and walk on a bit.

So I climbed the steps and I am now on the top of Raven Tor. This is the steep cliff to which I was just walking below. Another favourite for rock climbers.

Here on top of raven Tor is a plaque dedicated to David Bellamy, where in 1964 he was first inspired by wild flowers.

It wasn't until I reached the top of the hill and saw the sign below. Looking at my GPS unit, I saw I was off track. Bugger, not going back now! I will walk through and take my chances!

I need to pay more attention to my GPS unit , even when I think I am on the right path!

I walk through and now have the walk along the B6049 with cars and lorries thundering by. Not ideal but after a while I will be back on track.

I reach a car park and I am now on the Tideswell Dale and back on route.

I follow the path and thankful to be off the road!

The path a little further up crosses back over the B6049 and I take a path next to the Sewage works, at least it didn't smell. I follow the path uphill beneath trees.

Passing a farm I come out onto a road and down into Tideswell.

There is some debate as to how the village got its name. The English Place Name Society accepts it as being named after a Saxon chieftain named Tidi, others that the name comes from a "tiding well" situated in the north of the village. This 'ebbing and flowing' well was declared to be one of the Seven Wonders of the Peak by Thomas Hobbes in his 1636 book De Mirabilibus Pecci.

Tideswell is known locally as Tidza or Tidsa. In addition, local residents are known as Sawyeds, owing to a traditional story about a farmer who freed his prize cow from a gate in which it had become entangled, by sawing its head off. Today the story is re-enacted raucously and colourfully every Wakes week by a local mummers group called the Tidza Guisers.

In the Middle Ages, Tideswell was a market town known for lead mining. The Tideswell lead miners were renowned for their strength and were much prized by the military authorities. The Domesday Book of 1086 lists TIDESUUELLE as the King's land in the charge of William Peverel with fewer than five households.

Yay a pub, oh thats not good its closed till later!

The town has a week-long festival near the summer solstice known as the Wakes, culminating in "Big Saturday", which includes a torchlight procession through the streets, led by a brass band playing a unique tune called the Tideswell Processional, and townsfolk dancing a traditional weaving dance.

Fiddler on the roof, won second prize!

Tideswell is now best known for its 14th-century parish church, the Church of St John the Baptist, known as the "Cathedral of the Peak", which contains three 15th-century misericords. A sundial lies in the churchyard; it is positioned on steps which local historian Neville T. Sharpe thinks likely to be those of the village's market cross. A market and two-day fair were granted to the village in 1251. The Foljambe family, later the Foljambe baronets, were the principal landowners from the fourteenth to the eighteenth centuries.

I walk back out of the village going back uphill and pass a reminder of tomorrows England v Germany Game I need to back in time for! (Which we won 2-0 of course!! )

I stop for some lunch on the path above the village.

I follow paths back towards Millers Dale.

I make it back to the car after 9 and a half miles.

I drive to East Sterndale where I planned to stay the night, I pass where I intended to stay and there were already three campervans there. I check The Quiet Woman Pub up the road to find it hasn't reopened since the lockdown, so I decide to drive on to Longnor and stay at The Old Cheshire Cheese Pub. On arriving and parking up, I message the owners and get the reply they were happy for me to stay but they aren't open on Mondays! Bugger no beer for me today then.