Tolleshunt D'Arcy, Essex Circular walk 13th September 2021

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On Monday the 13th of September 2021 I drove for just under an hour to Tolleshunt D'Arcy and parked up in a small layby just past St Nicholas Church on Church Street.

The name Tolleshunt originates from the Anglo-Saxon Tolleshunta which means Toll's spring. Toll was an Anglo-Saxon chief who settled in large areas of forest, establishing clearings where water was readily available.

William the Conqueror gave the manor to Ralph Peverell for services rendered during the Conquest. The latter part of the village name altered as female heirs changed the name to that of their husbands. It became known as Tolleshunt Tregoz, Tolleshunt Valoines and Tolleshunt de Boys. John D'Arcy married a daughter of the De Boys family. By this match the estate came to the D'Arcy family in the 15th century. It remained in the family until the death of Thomas D'Arcy in 1593.

During that period, D'Arcy Hall, an early 16th-century building, was built as the family home and still remains. The interior is made from wood panelling bearing Anthony D'Arcy's initials and the date 1540. The bridge on the moat dates from the Elizabethan period as does the dovecote in the grounds. The russet D'Arcy Spice apple originated from the gardens in 1840. In the centre of the village is a Maypole which is a listed monument, and is one of the only genuine Maypoles remaining in the country. The base is now protected by a wooden cage.

I planned to see the maypole at the end of the walk back into the village, but the route I uploaded to the GPS didn't take me pass sadly.

I walk from the car up a short way to Beckingham Road where I turn right and up a bit to Festival gardens and onto a footpath at the end over farm fields.

I pass a pretty pond on Hill Farm as I walk across fields full of Pheasants that suddenly burst out of the hedgerows into the air.

Cornflowers line the footpath.

I continue walking across farmland with not a lot to see apart from the flocks of Pheasants running down the path and bursting skywards from the long grass and flowers.

I walk out onto Tudwick Road turn right and walk a 100m before taking another footpath on my right.

I walk across Tucketts Farm and past a few haystacks.

As I approach Oxley Green Farm, a water tower comes into view.

This large concrete water tower situated to the south of Tiptree forms part of the water supply network in the area. It is at 50m above sea level and is home to a pair of breeding kestrels.

I leave the farm and join Oxley Hill in Oxley Green and I turn right and walk on down the road.

I turn left onto a footpath on my left and pass a sign 'WILKIN & SONS LTD PRIVATE CARAVAN SITE'. No sign of any caravans here. Wilkin & Sons Ltd is of course the famous jam makers up the road in Tiptree.

I walk through a small wooded area, the shade is appreciated. 

I exit onto Blind Land in Tolleshunt Knights, cross a bridge over a dismantled railway and turn right at the top into Rectory Road.

From 1904 to 1951 the village was served by a small station on the Kelvedon and Tollesbury Light Railway.

TNotables residents of Tolleshunt Knights include the Cottee Family who have inhabited the small village and it’s neighbouring village, Tiptree, for over 400 years. They finally decided to settle in the village after leaving the Kingdom of France, they later decided to Anglicise their surname to the more English sounding Cottee from the French Lescot

I reach St John The Baptist Monastery here in Tolleshunt Knights. There were signs saying Monastery closed. I assume due to the Covid pandemic.

But not knowing if I'll ever walk this way again, I decided to walk in and look at the outside. It'd be shame to miss it. Apparently in normal times, they welcome visitors and are happy to show you around.

Archimandrite Sophrony

The Patriarchal Stavropegic Monastery of St John the Baptist is a monastic community for both men and women, directly under the Ecumenical Patriarchate. It is located in Tolleshunt Knights, near Maldon, Essex, in England, and is the oldest Orthodox religious community in the UK.

The religious community was founded in 1958 by Elder Sophrony, under the jurisdiction of Metropolitan Anthony, Metropolitan of Sourozh and ruling Russian bishop in England, with six monastics from a number of nations; soon after, in 1965, the Monastery moved under the direct jurisdiction of the Ecumenical Patriarchate.

The community consists of men and women living the monastic tradition of a Christ-centred prayer life. Currently, there are just under 40 monastics in the community, the majority of whom are nuns, with a smaller number of monks.

When founding the monastery, Elder Sophrony wanted to be sure that his community would not just have outward conformity, but have its focus on inner asceticism. The typikon of the monastery, consisting of repetition of the Jesus Prayer for approximately 4 hours per day and Divine Liturgy three or four times per week, found inspiration in Elder Sophrony's experience in the Athonite desert, and precedent in Athonite skete practise, St Nicodemus and St Paisius Velichkovsky.

Also, another distinctive part of this monastery is that it is a double monastery; that is, the community has both monks and nuns. This is rare, but is not unheard of, in Orthodox monasticism.

A nun walked towards me saying "You shouldn't be here, there are signs outside". I apologise and leave.

I continue on down Rectory Road before taking a footpath on my left and across Manifold Wick Farm.

I exit out and turn right onto Barnhall Road.

Its a mile of this busy road now, not pleasant and I'm hopping on and off the verge frequently to let cars pass.

I cross the Colchester Road and down another thankfully quieter road into Salcott-Cum-Virley.

The Old Post Office in Salcott-Cum-Virley.

Memory Tree in front of The Old School House.

The Parish Church of St Mary Salcott.

Salcott is recorded in 1317 as being a market town with paved streets. Its people felt they should have a Rector of their own. so in 1372 a request for this was made to the Bishop of London - Essex was then in that Diocese. A commission was set up, depositions were made by local inhabitants but no change appears to have been made - Salcott remaining a chapel to Great Wigborough until the 19th. century. About 1480 a Chantry was founded in the Church by John Baron with a Chantry Priest to sing Mass and administer the Sacraments, but this was all dissolved circa 1550 in the reign of Edward VI. The plate was confiscated and the chantry lands were given to John Raynforth who also stole the Church bells. It is stated that at that time there were 140 'Houseling people' (communicants).

I walk on to the end of the road and take a footpath over March Farm to the Marshes at Salcott Creek.

I follow the footpath along the marsh and mudflats.

After a while I take a path on my right across Old Marsh Hall Farm.

This then joins the Marshes at Old Hall Creek.

After more walking along the creek, I take a path away from the Saltmarshes and across farmland.

I continue across more farmland and then alongside a house with a lovely lake in its garden.

I walk up a the road a short way before taking another path across fields.

I walk out onto Tollesbury Road and back into Tollesbury D'Arcy.

I reach the junction below, if you turn right here onto South Street, you'll find the pub ,the Maypole and D'Arcy House. Hindsight is a beautiful thing! Oh well I continue back onto Church Street.

I now reach St Nicholas Church in Tolleshunt D'Arcy.

Parish Church of St. Nicholas stands in the village. The walls are of rubble with dressings of limestone or clunch; the roofs are covered with tiles and slates. The lower part of the West Tower has an early 14th-century window and may be of this date but it with the nave was remodelled or rebuilt late in the 14th century. Early in the 15th century the Chancel was rebuilt and later in the same century the North Chapel and South Porch were added. Early in the 16th century the North Vestry was added. The church was restored in the 19th century when the vestry was reduced in size by rebuilding the E. wall further West.

I am now back at the car at just under 11.5 miles, ready for the drive home.

Tollesbury Circular Walk 8th October 2018

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On Monday the 8th October 2018 I drove up to Tollesbury in Essex and parked up in Church Street opposite the Kings Head Public House.

I walked down Church Street and had a quick look in St Marys Church, they were getting ready for a toddlers group so I didnt stay long.

St Mary's Church is believed to have been built around 1090, shortly after the Norman Conquest, and possibly using building materials taken from an earlier Saxon church. Many additions and alterations have taken place since that time, and the current building has a doorway and some windows dating from Tudor times, and parts of the tower date from the 17th century.

In Medieval times the parish church was the property of Saint Mary's nunnery at Barking, the nunnery was responsible for the appointment of the clergyman to the parish. When the nunnery was dissolved by Henry VIII in 1539, the manor was given to Thomas, Lord Cromwell a few days before he was made Earl of Essex. The gift of the living has passed through many hands, and now rests with Exeter College, Oxford and the Bishop of Chelmsford.

Inside the church and turning to look back at the porch a splay of brickwork is exposed. This was shaped in the 11th Century and consists entirely of bricks made by the Romans. A similar splay can be seen above the tower arch. High in the wall near the tower is the small Norman window with glass depicting George, England's patron saint. It is given in memory as the tablet below tells, of Major William Charles Maskell, DSO, MC, who died in France in 1918.

The glass in the 15th Century window nearby is modern. This window has three cinquefoiled lights with vertical transformed tracery in a two centred head. The glass causes it now to be known as 'The Seafarers Window', and it is intended to place on permanent record the close association between the village and the sea. The centre light shows a post resurrection appearance of Christ to his apostles, as recorded in Saint John 21, 1-13. In the left hand light are depicted four of the famous yachts that have contended for the 'The Americas Cup', yacht racing's premier trophy. Yachtsmen from the Colne and Blackwater districts have been intimately connected with it since the initial race in 1851.

Indeed, men of Tollesbury participated in fifteen of the sixteen British contenders until 'Endeavour II'; the last 'Shamrock' and the two 'Endeavour' yachts were skippered by Captain Ted Heard of Tollesbury. Top left is the schooner 'America' which first won the historic race around the Isle of Wight. Second from the top is the schooner 'Cambria' which contended in 1870; third from top is 'Shamrock II' the challenger in 1899; and bottom is 'Endeavour I'. In the right hand light are to be seen the coastal vessels that plied the Essex waters. Top right is a Billy Boy; second from the top a ketch rigged barge; third is a 'Stackie', especially built to carry straw and hay to London; and bottom right is a Tollesbury oyster smack showing the rig of about 1922.

Inside the church if the famous 'swearing' font: the story goes that in 1718 the local churchwardens were so appalled by the drunken swearing of parishioner that they fined him £5 - a considerable sum in those times. With the money they commissioned a new font, and had carved on it the words 'Good people all I pray take care that in ye Church you doe not sware As this man did'. An entry in the registers for 30th August 1718 explains: "Elizabeth daughter of Robert and Eliza Wood, being ye first child which was baptised in the new font which was bought out of five pounds paid by John Norman who some months before came drunk into ye Church and cursed and talked aloud in the time of Divine Service, to prevent his being prosecuted for which he paid by agreement the above said five pounds. Note that the wise Rhyms on the font were put there by sole order of Robert Joyce then Church Warden".

I walk on down Church Street to a house with a sign saying beware of the Geese, I'd be more worried about the emu's!

I continue on and Church Street passes a farm before becoming a track.

I now reach the sea wall by the River Blackwater Estuary and I stop for a quick cup of tea from my flask.

View across to The Bradwell Power Station.

On the bench below, I stopped for another tea and pondered whether to cut the walk short and walk back into Tollesbury or continue as planned around Tollesbury Wick.

                                                         I decided to walk on as planned!

The grazing marshes at Tollesbury Wick date from the late Middle Ages: the sea wall can clearly be seen on the Chapman and Andre map of 1777. The land was reclaimed from the sea by the construction of the sea wall: the borrowdyke, which snakes along beside the sea wall on the landward side is a ditch dug out to provide material for the sea wall. Originally the sea wall was much lower than in is today. It was raised significantly after the floods of 1953. You can see by comparison with the remains of the railway line just how much higher the wall was raised. The marshlands have been farmed for hundreds of years but much of the area has never, ever been ploughed. And today, now that the marshes are managed by the Essex Wildlife Trust, they are farmed with conservation in mind. Grazing is the traditional way of managing lowland grassland habitats and Essex Wildlife Trust uses a 'flying flock' of North Ronaldsay and Shetland sheep. Although based at Tollesbury Wick nature reserve, the rare breed sheep are taken to other Trust sites to be grazed at various times of the year. As well as the flying flock, Tollesbury Wick has also built up a herd of rare breed Shetland cattle that are instrumental in managing the grazing marsh on the reserve along with the sheep.

This 600-acre site is an SSSI because of its significance as an overwintering habitat for migrating birds.

The rough pasture, which has been worked by traditional methods for decades, suits small animals such as Field Voles and Pygmy Shrews. The presence of these attracts raptors like Hen Harriers and Short-eared Owls. You should also be able to see Marsh Harriers here during the summer breeding season: although they almost became extinct in the UK during the last century their numbers are increasing, and there are now several hundred breeding pairs in the country.

The variety of habitat in the area in quite remarkable, with freshwater fleets, brackish pools and saltmarsh, and the tidal estuary of the River Blackwater; together with dry grassland on the slopes of the seawall, fresh water grazing marshes, reed beds and rough pastures. At Shinglehead Point the shingle and shells support the yellow horned-poppy. Between late April and early July please do not venture onto the shingle itself because Little Terns, Oyster-catchers and Ringed Plovers will be nesting.

Bradwell Power Station across the water.

Reed Warblers and Reed Buntings can be heard and sometimes seen near the reedbeds, along with a variety of dragonflies. Little Terns hunt for food in the borrowdykes, which contain ten-spined sticklebacks, prawns and eels as well as many insects. Golden Plover, Lapwing, Brent Geese and Wigeon feed and roost on the wet grassland in winter, and wading birds such as Redshank, Grey Plover, Curlew and Dunlin can be seen on the mudflats. Skylarks fly high overhead in the summer months.

Wildflowers such as Spiny Rest-harrow, Grass Vetchling, Slender Hare's Ear and plants such as Sea Lavender and Shrubby Seablight add to the richness of the local flora. In turn these support a wide variety of insects including butterflies, Bush Crickets and grasshoppers.

I reach the point of the Wick and I am looking across to Mersea Island.

I am now heading back in towards Tollesbury Marina.

A Little Egret

I am now in Tollesbury Marina and can see the Tollesbury Lightship clearly.

Tollesbury Lightship

Lightship No. 15 spent most of its working life off the south coast of Wales, warning shipping of the presence of the Scarweather sandbank near Porthcawl. It has no means of propulsion. Built in 1954, it was retired in 1988, named "Trinity", and is now permanently moored amongst the marshes near Tollesbury. It is owned by the Fellowship Afloat Charitable Trust (FACT) and now operates as a residential centre, providing nautical activity holidays for children.

Tollesbury Marina: A 4 Gold Anchor award-winning marina with 250 berths on modern pontoons with water and electricity, modern safety features & lighting yet traditional waterside atmosphere. Built in 1970 and surrounded by countryside with easy access to the river Blackwater (West Mersea, Osea Island, Maldon & Bradwell) and good road access to London & Ipswich.

Harbour View Bistro & Bar, Club with restaurant, bar, heated swimming pool and two tennis courts on site are included within mooring fees.

I pass The Loft Tearoom ,but it is the one day they're not open, typical!

I pass the Sailing club and another cafe, I thought about going in for a tea but whats the point, I still had my flask so I walked on.

I walk on along Woodruffe Road

I turn right onto East Street and past The Lighthouse.

The Lighthouse is a UK Book Store at 55A East St, Tollesbury, Maldon CM9 8QE, UK.

I am now back at the start after a 7.5 mile walk and 3 hours of lovely walking!