My Adventures 3: st Nicholas church

On Saturday the 6th December 2025 Mel and I left our B&B in Bruges, caught a Uber to Bruges Train Station and took a train to Ghent. We arrived and Castel Hotel is just across the road from the Gent St Pieters Station.

We were too early to book in, so we left our luggage there and wandered across the road to try and find out how to catch a bus or tram into the city centre.

We caught a 55 bus and got off in the centre on Vlasmarkt and walked down Belfortstraat .

Walking up we can see the Ghent Belfry.

The Belfry of Ghent (Belfort) is a stunning 91-metre-tall medieval tower, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and a key landmark in Ghent's historic centre, symbolizing civic power with its Gothic architecture and impressive views. Built starting in the 14th century, it served as a watchtower, archive, and treasury, featuring a famous dragon on its spire and housing 54 bells. Visitors can climb it via an elevator and stairs for panoramic city views, making it a top attraction in Belgium, situated near St. Bavo's Cathedral and St. Nicholas' Church.

We walk over to St Bavo's Cathedral and enter.

Saint Bavo's Cathedral, also known as Sint-Baafs Cathedral is a Roman Catholic cathedral in Ghent, Belgium. The 89-metre-tall (292 ft) Gothic building is the seat of the Diocese of Ghent and is named for Saint Bavo of Ghent. It contains the well-known Ghent Altarpiece, also called the Adoration of the Mystic Lamb.

The altarpiece was one of the countless cultural works stolen by Hitler’s armies during World War II. All twelve panels and seventeen feet of it were taken from the Cathedral of St. Bavo and, dismantled, it was hidden away in the salt mine in Austria.

We had no intention of paying to see a painting and there was a long queue.

Transmarus, bishop of Tournai and Noyon, is said to have consecrated a church on this site in 942 to Saint John the Baptist. This was followed in the mid 12th century by a romanesque church, traces of which visitors can still find in the the crypt decorated with murals.

In the Middle Ages, Ghent flourished into a powerlful city, allowing churches to be build larger and more lavishly. Saint John's Church was converted to the Gothic style during the 15th and 16th centuriess, and gradually took on its current form.

In 1536, on orders of Emperor Charles V, the centuries-old Saint Baafs Abbey was dissolved. Most of the abbey was demolished after the Ghent uprising in 1540 and converted into military barracks. The abbot and monks were secularized and given the title of canon. Their chapter transferred to Saint John's Chruch, which from then on was called Saint Baafs Church.

In 1559, the diocese of Ghent was established by which the church became Saint Bavo's Cathedral. In the long line of pastors of the diocese of Ghent, seventh bishop, Antonius Triest, must certainly be mentioned. The rich, baroque interior of the cathedral as we see it today bears his powerful imprint.

The diocese of Ghent was founded in 1559 and the church became St Bavo's Cathedral. Among the long line of shepherds of the diocese of Ghent, the figure of the seventh bishop, Antonius Triest, should certainly be mentioned. The cathedral's rich, baroque interior as we see it today bears his powerful stamp.

The rococo pulpit in St Bavo’s Cathedral in Ghent is not only impressive, but breathtaking. The size of the ensemble, the exceptional three-dimensional quality of the sculptures, and the elaboration of the decorative elements in rococo style make this piece of religious furniture unique in eighteenth-century sculpture in the Southern Netherlands. The interplay of different materials and the tonality, with black and white marble, bare oak and gilded wood, was completely new in the elaboration of church furnishings. This way, the sculptor, Laurent Delvaux, sought to emphasize the iconographic meaning of the ensemble. He drew inspiration from Italy.

It will come as no surprise that Delvaux needed four years to complete the pulpit, which depicts the allegorical scene Time Discovers Truth. It is undoubtedly one of his most expressive works. The ensemble is moreover seen as pivotal in the transition from Baroque to Neoclassicism. The fact that the pulpit is still in its original location, although it lost its function due to the Second Vatican Council, is extraordinary.

Reliquary containing relics of Saint Bavo of Ghent containing the believed bone of St Bavo.

Saint Bavo: Originally a wealthy nobleman named Allowin, he was inspired by Saint Amand to renounce his possessions and become a hermit, living first in a hollow tree and later in a cell. After his death, his remains were placed in the Ganda Monastery, which developed a popular cult around the saint and was later named after him.

We left the cathedral and walked down Emile Braunplein and entered a souvenir shop that has a KAA Genk FC fan shop upstairs.

Koninklijke Atletiek Associatie Gent English: Royal Athletic Association Ghent), often simply known as Gent or by their nickname De Buffalo's (English: The Buffalos), is a Belgian professional sports club, based in the city of Ghent, East Flanders. Their football team is the best known section within the club and has been playing in the Belgian First Division A since the 1989–90 season. They won the national league once, in 2014–15, in addition to four Belgian Cup victories. Gent played their home matches in the Jules Ottenstadion in Gentbrugge from 1920 until 2013, when they moved to the Ghelamco Arena. Their team colours are blue and white. The principal sponsor is Baloise, with Hamann International Logistics sponsoring for the UEFA Conference League matches.

The nickname of the club is De Buffalo's, a term coined after a visit of the original Buffalo Bill and his Wild West circus to the city in the early 20th century. Their logo features a Native American in profile. The origins of this logo are attributed to the feather headdresses worn by the Indian chiefs who performed with Buffalo Bill, though this logo has garnered some controversy in recent years.

We wander around the Christmas Market here in front of St Nicholas Church.

St. Nicholas Church is a Roman Catholic church, as well as one of the oldest and most prominent landmarks in Ghent, Belgium. Begun in the early 13th century as a replacement for an earlier Romanesque church, construction continued through the rest of the century in the local Scheldt Gothic style (named after the nearby river). Typical of this style is the use of blue-gray stone from the Tournai area, the single large tower above the crossing, and the slender turrets at the building's corners.

Built in the old trade center of Ghent next to the bustling Korenmarkt (Wheat Market), St. Nicholas Church was popular with the guilds whose members carried out their business nearby. The guilds had their own chapels which were added to the sides of the church in the 14th and 15th centuries.

The central tower, which was funded in part by the city, served as an observation post and carried the town bells until the neighbouring Belfry of Ghent was built. These two towers, along with St. Bavo's Cathedral, still define the skyline of the city centre. One of the treasures of the church is its organ, produced by the famous French organ builder Aristide Cavaillé-Coll.

Wander among firs and pines, amble past more than 150 stalls selling snacks and drinks, fancy trinkets and authentic crafts. The scent of pine resin and mulled wine make the experience complete.

Walking on we walk over Sint Michielsbrug.

The St. Michael's Bridge is a stone arch bridge in the centre of the Belgian city of Ghent . The bridge spans the Leie River , on the south side of the Graslei and Korenlei . The current monumental bridge was built between 1905 and 1909, after the construction of the post office. Both the St. Michael's Bridge and the Old Post Office were designed by architect Louis Cloquet .

Previously, there was a flat swing bridge here . The bridge is part of the street Sint-Michielshelling. From the bridge, one has a view to the north of the Graslei and Korenlei, and in the distance the Gravensteen castle . To the east, the bridge offers a typical view of Ghent's three towers: St. Nicholas' Church , the Belfry of Ghent , and St. Bavo's Cathedral . On the southwest side stands St. Michael's Church . The bridge was declared a protected monument in 1983.

We walk down to walk alongside the Leie River with views back to St Nicholas Church.

We have views across to Graslei. Graslei (English: Grass Quay) is a quay in the historic city centre of Ghent, Belgium, located on the right bank of the Leie river. The quay opposite of the Graslei is called Korenlei. Both quays were part of the medieval port and are now a cultural and touristic hotspot of the city, with a high concentration of café patios. The site, with its unique row of historical buildings, is a protected cityscape.

Laid out along the Leie river, close to the mouth in the Scheldt, the site is considered one of the oldest of Ghent, dating back to the fifth century A.D. when Ghent was the centre of the wheat trade in the County of Flanders. Most of the current houses on the Graslei date back to the Middle Ages, although the monumental façades have been heavily modified in the 18th and 19th century and were restored in anticipation of the 1913 World's Fair hosted by Ghent.

We walk up Jan Breydelstraat, it has started to rain now, so we stop for coffee and hot chocolate in cafe called Giri and watch the world walk by.

We walk on and turn right onto Reklingestraat and walk up to Gravensteen Castle.

Entrance to Oude Vismijn

The Oude Vismijn (Old Fish Market) is one of the oldest markets in Ghent.

The market was originally located on the current Groentenmarkt but moved to its present location on Sint-Veerleplein in 1689.

The distinctive gatehouse with its open-air stalls is a landmark of the city.

We cross over to the castle.

The Gravensteen (Dutch; lit. 'the Counts' rock') is a medieval castle in the city of Ghent, East Flanders in Belgium. The current castle dates from 1180 and was the residence of the Counts of Flanders until 1353. It was subsequently re-purposed as a court, prison, mint, and even as a cotton mill. It was restored over 1893–1903 and is now a museum and a major landmark in the city.

The origins of the Gravensteen date to the reign of Arnulf I (890–965) in the County of Flanders. The site, which sat between two branches of the river Lys, was first fortified around 1000, initially in wood and later in stone. This was soon transformed into a motte-and-bailey castle which was burnt down in around 1176.

The current castle dates to 1180 and was built by Philip of Alsace (1143–1191) on the site of the older fortification. It may have been inspired by crusader castles witnessed by Philip during the Second Crusade. As well as a protective citadel, the Gravensteen was intended to intimidate the burghers of Ghent who often challenged the counts' authority. It incorporates a large central donjon, a residence and various smaller buildings. These are surrounded by a fortified, oval-shaped enceinte lined with 24 small échauguettes. It also has a sizeable moat, fed with water from the Lys.

From 1180 until 1353, the Gravensteen was the residence of the Counts of Flanders. The decision to leave was taken by Louis of Male (1330–1384) who transferred the court to the nearby Hof ten Walle.

The foot of a wolf was once nailed to the gate and provides the last known archaeozoological evidence for the wolf in Flanders.

We walk on and cross back over the River Leie.

The Vrijdagmarkt "Friday Market" is a city square in the historic centre of Ghent, East Flanders, Belgium. It is named after the weekly tradition to stage a market every Friday morning. As one of the oldest squares in Ghent, it played an important role in the city's history.

The centrepiece of the plaza is the statue of Jacob van Artevelde, Ghent's wise man who sided with England during the Hundred Years' War and was murdered on the site in 1345. Van Artevelde had, on 26 January 1340, proclaimed in the Vrijdagmarkt Edward III of England as king of France. This was the first formal declaration of Edward's claim to the French crown at the beginning of the Hundred Years' War.

The square is surrounded with guildhalls, which currently house bars, restaurants and terraces. In the northerly corner, there are two monumental Art Nouveau buildings of the socialist movement, built at the turn of the 20th century, which currently house the socialist health insurance federation and the General Labour Federation of Belgium (ABVV/FGTB).

Our House-Bond Moyson in Vridagmarkt.

In 1893, two inns were purchased by the Samenwerkende Maatschappij Vooruit No. 1 (Cooperative Society Vooruit No. 1) at the location where the Utenhovesteen stood until 1839. This was because the clothing warehouses on the Garenmarkt had become too small; the renovations took place based on a design by Ferdinand Dierkens . The building became known as Groote Magazijnen (Great Warehouses ) and functioned as a department store where all kinds of products could be purchased through the cooperative, such as fabrics, shoes, and spices. It also housed meeting rooms and a banquet hall. After a fire in 1897, the reconstruction was carried out in two phases, the work being carried out by the Samenwerkende Bouwwerklieden (Cooperative Construction Workers). Dierkens was commissioned by Edward Anseele to design an imposing new two-part building, reminiscent of the Grands Magasins (Grands Magasins) in Paris . Jules de Bleye was commissioned to decorate the facades with socialist allegorical scenes .

The building shown is 't Toreken (The Little Tower), a historic 15th-century guild house located in Ghent, Belgium.

This was the house of the tanners’ guild. Halfway up this small tower is the market clock and on the steeple the mermaid Melusine holds up her mirror to the wind.

We walk on and find Graffiti Street .

Ghent’s graffiti alley has a colourful but hidden history. Emerged from the underground, the people of Ghent knew Werregarenstraat as a red-light district where a coffin maker had his workshop. But how did it become a canvas for young artists?

In the mid-90s the graffiti scene played a cat-and-mouse game with the authorities: like hunted prey, they left their mark on the city center at the risk of heavy fines and prison sentences. However, the arrival of the American artist John Matos ‘CRASH’ in Ghent marked a turning point: then-mayor Frank Beke granted permission to leave an artwork in Werregarenstraatje.

By and by, the graffiti artists sought permission from all the alley’s property owners, turning the backstreet into an official graffiti street. This turning point paved the way for what has become a beloved and dynamic part of the city’s culture. The Werregarenstraat is more than just a collection of murals — it turned into a living archive of Ghent. Each layer of paint hides another, reflecting the vibrant nature of both urban art and this city.

Leaving Grafitti Street we come our by Ghent's Town Hall.

The Ghent Stadhuis, meaning the Ghent Town Hall, is one of the most magnificent buildings in the city. The design of the iconic structure can be considered as a schizophrenic hotchpotch, in a good way that is, because two portions of it look absolutely different from another - with the part on the Botermarkt side featuring a Renaissance style, while Hoogpoort part is the epitome of an elaborate Gothic design. The variation in design was not intentional and just the result of later additions, much after the original structure was already made around 1519-1539.

The facade of the town hall also has elements of the Italian Renaissance palazzi, with its Corinthian, Ionic, and Doric pilasters and three-quarter owls. The wedding chapel in the town hall is where most of the locals get married today, and it is an incredibly beautiful place to take the vows - with its romantic stained-glass windows, wooden vaulted ceilings, and the 19 exquisite statues of the counts of Flanders, which were a relatively latter addition though, having been made in the 20th century. There are many other sections in the town hall, such as a reception parlor that served as the States of Flanders’ former member chamber, throne room, cabinet room, arsenal room, and pacification room where the Pacification of Ghent was proclaimed in 1576.

Visitors can go for one-hour long guided tours, the timing of which is counted from the tourist office.

We walk back down to the Belfry of Ghent and the Christmas Markets.

The city originally started as a settlement at the confluence of the Rivers Scheldt and Leie. In the Late Middle Ages Ghent became one of the largest and richest cities of northern Europe, with some 50,000 people in 1300. After the late 16th century Ghent became a less important city, resulting in an extremely well-preserved historic centre, making Ghent a popular tourist destination.

Most historians believe that the older name for Ghent, 'Ganda', is derived from the Celtic word ganda, which means 'confluence', or 'river mouth', referring to the Leie river debouching into the Scheldt. Other sources connect its name with an obscure deity named Gontia.

Around 650, Saint Amand founded two abbeys in Ghent: St. Peter's (Blandinium) and St. Bavo's Abbey. Around 800, Louis the Pious, son of Charlemagne, appointed Einhard, the biographer of Charlemagne, abbot of both abbeys. The city grew from several nuclei, the abbeys, and a commercial centre. However, in 851 and 879 the city was plundered by Vikings.

Under the protection of the County of Flanders the city recovered and flourished from the 11th century, growing to become a small city-state. By the 13th century, Ghent was the biggest city in Europe north of the Alps after Paris; it was bigger than Cologne or Moscow. Up to 65,000 people lived within the city walls. The belfry and the towers of the St. Bavo's Cathedral and St. Nicholas' Church are just a few examples of the skyline of the period.

The rivers flowed in an area where much land was periodically flooded. These rich grass 'meersen' ("water-meadows": a word related to the English 'marsh') were ideally suited for grazing sheep, the wool of which was used to make cloth.

During the Middle Ages Ghent became the leading European city for the manufacture of cloth. Wool was imported from Scotland and England, although during the Hundred Years' War trade suffered significantly.

Ghent was the birthplace of John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster.

We catch the tram back to Gent St Pieters Station and we walk back to the hotel and book in.

Hotel Castel is ideally located near the station, but is where the plus's end. The hallway had sockets with expired wires and it stank of the Indian takeaway it was attached too. Big let down after the fab nights in the B&B in Bruges.