Theydon Bois Essex Circular walk 20th April 2020

On Monday the 20th April 2020, we are still on the Covid-19 lockdown, so a local walk was needed. A 15 minute drive to Theydon Bois, I look about Popular Row no good here (Permit holders Mon to Fri 10am to 4pm). Theydon Bois Tube station want £6 a day, so I find a bay with free parking for two hours. I park up hoping I can make the 6 mile walk in 2 hours.

GPS File here.
Viewranger File here.

I set off crossing the Central Line by footbridge and along a path the other side.

The origin of the village place name comes from the family of Bois (de Bosco), which held the manor in the 12th and 13th centuries. The village name is usually pronounced to rhyme with "boyce" or "boys".

The second part of the village name has been 'Boys', with various spellings, as far back as can be traced. When the Great Eastern Railway built its branch to Ongar, it asked the clerk of the Epping Parish Council, a Mr John Windas, how it should be spelt. As he had some knowledge of French and in view of the village's proximity to the forest, he suggested the best spelling would be 'Bois'.

I made my way across meadows and crossing streams in glorious sunshine with a nice breeze.

I can hear the rumbling of the M11 and it appears in sight, I'll soon be walking beneath.

Church in Theydon Garnon, that'll I be visiting soon.

I walk through a cold tunnel beneath the M11.

In stark contrast to the cold dark tunnel, on the other-side is a footpath in bright sunshine and trees in blossom.

Along the path I cross the fields in front of Garnish Hall.

Garnish Hall is a 17th Century house with a 18th Century red brick facing.

T.N. Abdy, Esq., is lord of the manor of Theydon Garnon, or Garnish Hall, now a farm house; and Mrs. Houblon is owner of Coopersale estate, on the north side of the parish, near Epping, and resides at Coopersale House, a large and elegant mansion, which stands on elevated ground, surrounded by lawns and ornamental plantations, and was long the seat of the Archer family, which originated from Simon de Bois, who was at the battle of Agincourt, and was so skilful in archery, that the King ordered his name to be changed to Archer.

Mrs. and Richard Archer Houblon are the present representatives of this ancient family. Sir P.B.H. Soame, Bart., has an occasional residence here; and the Hon. A.F. Capel resides at Thoydon House; and J.C. Whiteman, at The Grove.

I am now in Theydon Garnon, surprising enough as I live so close I have never visited.

THOYDON-GARNON, or THEYDON GERNON, is a pleasant straggling village, from 1 to 2 miles South South East of Epping, but its parish extends close to that town, and has several handsome seats and scattered farm houses, near Steward's Green, Coopersale, and the north-eastern borders of Epping Forest.

The parish had 1072 inhabitants in 1841, including 140 in Epping Union Workhouse. It contains 3160 acres of land, and has a fertile soil, richly cultivated, and embellished with ornamental plantations, contrasting beautifully with the old woods of the forest.

It was held by Ulmar, in the the reign of Edward the Confessoor, and by Eudo Dapifer, at the Domesday Survey. It was afterwards held by the Theydon, Gernon, Fitzwilliam, and other families. William C. Marsh. Esq., (high sheriff of Essex, in 1847,) is lord of the manors and estates, called Gayns Park and Hamnales, and has a handsome seat, called PARK HALL encompassed by fine woodland scenery.

The path now takes me through All Saints Church in Theydon Garnon.

The oldest parts of All Saints Church, Theydon Garnon, date back over 700 years. Throughout the whole of this time the building has been used as a place of worship as it still is today. 

It is almost certain that Queen Elizabeth would have visited All Saints’ Church, Theydon Garnon because it is a fact that she stayed at Garnish Hall (Then Gernons Hall) during one of her Royal Progress’ in 1572. As she was head of the Church of England it seems unlikely she would have been so close to the Church and not visited. The estate passed to the Hampden family in the early 16th century; then to the Branche family later in the same century; then to Robert Dun, to his son Daniel Dun; to be sold to Sir Robert Abdy in about 1660.

The Tudor tower, added about 1520. It is of three stages with an embattle parapet, and is of red brick with some blue bricks interspersed. Notice on the outside South Wall the stone panel, protected but now practically illegible which bears the arms of the grocers company and of “Syr John Crosbe” (of Crosby Hall fame) Alderman and Grocer of London and note that he and his wives Ann and Annes gave £50 towards its building. A portion of the inscription has been cut out and this was probably done in puritan times. Note also on the south East buttress a starched aisle, and above it a larger sun dial – reminders that we have not always had clocks to tell the time for services. On the outside of the west wall picked out in dark brick on a panel on the outside has the letters i. h. representing John Houblon who built the North Aisle. Continue around the tower to the far side of the Church when the North Aisle and Porch were built they were also done in red brick, it is interesting to compare with the earlier brick of the tower. The date, 1644, is picked out in a corresponding panel on the outside of the Eastern Gable End

As I suspected the church door was locked so I was unable to have a look about inside.

I continue along the path away from the Church.

I exit out onto Coopersale Lane and walk a short way before taking the path on the bend of the road.

I now follow another tree lined path.

A lovely and unusual seat by the path.

I exit the path out onto the farm track of Hydes Farm.

Hydes farmhouse is a 16th Century Grade II listed building.

I cross Epping Lane and straight over onto the footpath that takes me through Hill Farm.

Looking back to Hill Farm

I follow the path down to a bridge where I cross The River Roding.

The River Roding is a river that rises at Molehill Green near Dunmow in Essex. It then flows south through Essex and London and forms Barking Creek as it reaches the River Thames.

I follow the path through farm fields before exiting out onto Ongar Road.

I follow the road into Abridge.

Abridge takes its name from the brick bridge over the River Roding, which is situated just to the north of the modern centre, on the road to Theydon Bois.

Listed buildings include the Blue Boar Inn (early 19th century), the group of medieval buildings that form the Roding Restaurant, the 18th-century house immediately northeast of the restaurant, Roding House (late medieval), River Cottage in Ongar Road, and the Maltsters Arms (18th century).

To the east of the village is Stapleford Aerodrome formerly RAF Stapleford Tawney of 11 Group east sector.

I cross the bridge over the River Roding again and take the path across a field.

Now according to the map, the path goes diagonally across and not around the field edge as everyone seems to have done. So I walk across diagonally on the recently ploughed field.

I am walking alongside the Roding again on Bloody Mead.

Having walked across farmland of a dairy farm I walk out onto Epping Lane again and take another path almost opposite.

I am now conscious of my two hour time for the parking and try to up my pace a little.

I exit out onto Abridge Road and walk beneath the M11 again.

Just the other side of the bridge I take a path on my left and into Theydon Bois Wood.

This new woodland was planted between 2006 and 2009 on land that was once part of Epping Forest. It’s already becoming a haven for wildlife. Wander through the young oak, ash, field maple and hornbeam and look out for sparrow, wren and the brightly coloured goldfinch with its red face and flash of yellow on its wing. You may even catch sight of the occasional muntjac deer.

In spring and summer, the wildflower meadow by the small stream becomes a tapestry of colour, with the yellow blaze of cowslip and buttercup sprinkled with pink campion, wild red clover and deep violet self-heal. It’s a great place to spot butterflies as they feast on the nectar. Autumn is your turn for a feast as you can forage for blackberries, rosehips and elderberries as you watch the leaves begin to turn.

View of  Londons Skyline in the distance.

Visible from the M25 as you pass climb north past Theydon Bois, is this impressive earthwork sculpture and its woodland location, created by the Green Arc and Woodland Trusts. At 130 metres long and three metres tall, it’s quite a landmark! Artists were invited from across the UK to submit design ideas for the site. The winning artist was Richard Harris, who produced the final design that we recreated on the site.

Richard’s artwork was inspired by tree seeds and has been constructed entirely from soil from the site itself, shaped into concentric seed-shaped mounds. You can even walk along the top of the three metre high mounds, which will eventually be planted with bushes and shrubs on the sloping sides.

View to Thrifts Hall Farm

 I leave the fields behind and again cross the Central Line.

After walking along some roads I walk out onto Popular Row and past the pond.

Famous residents

David Sullivan, millionaire publisher of Sport Newspapers former co-owner of Birmingham City Football Club and current co-owner of West Ham United Football Club, lives in Birch Hall, off Coppice Row.

Ray Cooney, English playwright and actor.

The village has two pubs, the Bull and the Queen Victoria. A third, Theydons (previously The Railway Arms), closed in October 2011 and has been converted into flats.

The Bull, Theydon Bois' oldest Public House. Dating back to the 17th Century The Bull was orignally a private residence called 'The Tile House'. The building was later extended and became an inn known as 'The Bull's Head' before settling on the name we know today.

Today the pub retains much of it's original charm with exposed oak beams and polished wood floors in the bar area. 

Now this is a surprise ! I can get the famous Brick Lane salt beef bagels without having to drag myself into Shoreditch!

I am back at the car, about 11 minutes over the two hours! I see a traffic warden, but obviously my two hours start from when she first saw my car so all was good. A great 6 miler!

Bluebell Walk , The Manor Harold Hill 14th April 2020

A short walk around The Manor in Harold Hill, being on lock-down during the Corona Pandemic is restricting me getting out on walks. But this is local and meant I still get to experience my yearly Bluebell Walk fix.

 Manor includes almost twenty hectares of colourful wildflower meadows, over eight hectares of ancient coppiced woodland, ponds, scrub and veteran trees. Not only that but the site also preserves a fascinating historical record which stretches back into the Middle Ages. Dagnam park, formally laid out by the well known Victorian landscape architect Humphrey Repton, preserves its original 18th century boundaries together with a number of original landscape features including copses, ponds and specimen trees. Look out for mature conifers, horse chestnuts and cedar.

I listened to the sounds of the birds singing. It was so peaceful and calming. But you can hear the distant hum of traffic on the M25 unfortunately breaking the silence.

A herd of deer emerged from the woods and started to gather on the green out in the sun.

The site of the original house is now overgrown, but a line of yew trees survives in woodland close to the spot where 19th century cast-iron gateposts flank the former drive. There is also a scheduled ancient monument, Cockerell's moated site (of Dagnam Park Farm), in the south of the site - now a well known breeding pond for great crested newts. There is also evidence of medieval field patterns and see if you can spot the medieval road running along the sites eastern boundary!

I walked past the site of the old manor house, where there is still some evidence of its exsistence, there are still part of walls, gate posts and the pond.

The first house at Dagnams (also known as Dagenhams) was a moated Tudor building sited at the southern end of a local wood called Great Hatters. From the early 13th century the manor was held by a series of local squires and merchants until c1420 when passed into the trusteeship (for whom it's not known) of the Duke of Gloucester, the Earl of March and others. By 1443 it was owned by the Earls of Northumberland until 1482 when it was sold to one Avery Cornburgh. Just before his death in 1487 he sold the manor to Sir William Hussey. On his death in 1495 it passed to his son, Sir John Hussey, a powerful official within Henry VII's household. The house then passed through the Grocers Company (who had inherited it), via the Legatt family, to Cromwell's physician, Dr Lawrence Wright in 1633. The only known image of the house from this time dates from 1633 and was probably commissioned by the proud new owner. It shows a gabled house, built round a courtyard, within a square moat. Thomas Wright died in 1657. It was rebuilt c1660 on a modest scale by his son Sir Henry Wright Bt. only a few years before he himself died in 1664. As an indication of size, it was noted that it had 23 hearths in 1662 and 24 in 1670. The famous diarist Samuel Pepys visited Dagenhams in July 1665 and said that "...it was the most noble and pretty house, for its size, that he had ever seen.".

The house underwent further extensive alterations and was enlarged between 1732 and 1739 by Edward Carteret, who also added a private chapel. It was noted in 1771 that Dagnams had a central block of two storeys with attics, containing eleven bays which may have been the original house of c1660. Carteret's extensions meant that this central block was flanked at each end by five-bay wings, also of two storeys, but without attics - creating a very large, 21-bay house, but shallow at only four bays deep.

In 1772 the estate and the neighbouring one, Cockerels, were sold to a wealthy merchant, Sir Richard Neave, Bt. (b.1731 - d.1814 - created Baronet in 1795). He had made his fortune trading in the West Indies and the Americas and had, at various times, been chairman of the Ramsgate Harbour Trust, the West Indian Merchants and the London Dock Company, as well as a director of the Hudson’s Bay Company and was made deputy Governor of the Bank of England in 1781 and promoted to Governor in 1783; a postion he held until 1785. He lived in the nearby Bower House in Havering-atte-Bower but sought to elevate himself from merchant to country gentleman. To reflect his achievements and new status Neave had the original Dagnams demolished, probably between 1772 and 1776. Its replacement was a red-brick Georgian house nine bays wide by four deep with a curved central three-bay projection to the south front.

Neave then set about consolidating his position by instituting a land purchase policy in 1785 which his successors continued for the next 100 years, ultimately creating one of the largest estates in south Essex. Estimated at approximately 500 acres in 1772, by 1846 it extended to over approximately 1,700 acres of land in Havering and Romford, and by 1876 to 1,800 acres reaching its zenith in the early 20th century when it extended to over 2,700 acres.

As with many country houses, the end of the First World War also signalled the start of the decline of the English country house which was to last until the 1970s. Before WWI Dagnams employed over 40 staff, however, in 1919 Sir Thomas L.H. Neave sold 2,200 acres, including 1,500 acres in Romford and Havering, leaving 500 acres surrounding Dagnams.

The 5th Baronet, Sir Thomas Neave, died in 1940 and the house requisitioned and soldiers billeted in it with the grounds used as a transport park. If this wasn't enough to contend with, the house was severely damaged by a German V2 rocket in January 1945 which landed nearby. The explosion opened up large cracks in the walls.

The final nail in the coffin of the estate and the house was the Abercrombie report after the Second World War which recommended creating new housing estates on green field sites around the edge of London to house those who had lost their homes in the War. The aim was to build in the park but to retain the house as a community centre. London County Council compulsorily purchased Dagnams and the remaining 500 acres for £60,000 (approximately £1.6m today) in 1947. They also bought another 850 acres which comprised the local farms which had been sold to the tenant farmers in the first land sale in 1919.

The house might have survived this radical change but for the actions of the caretaker installed by the council. Employed at wage of 30s per week and the use of 5 rooms for accommodation, he sought to supplement his income by promptly stealing and selling the lead from the roof. His actions also earned him an 18-month prison sentence but, worse, they allowed water to penetrate the building and especially the cracks left by the V2 rocket explosion. The combination of the bomb damage, the wear and tear of the soldiers, the extensive water damage and the lack of a clear need to preserve the house sealed its fate. Dagnams was demolished in late 1950 with the demolition team taking their payment in the form of the rubble to be sold as building material. The grounds became a public park and remain so to this day.

I walked through a part of the reserve I hadn't been before , then returning back to the path that lead me in.

The smell of the bluebell was heavenly as was the display they put on. I estimate about a 2.5 to 3 mile walk out in beautiful weather.