Monday, 7 July 2025

Flåm,Norway 2nd July 2025 on P&O Iona

On Wednesday the 2nd July 2025 I awoke and we all went up for Breakfast at Horizons onboard P&O Iona. Whilst having breakfast we had amazing views out to Flåm and Aurlandsfjord.

After breakfast we got ourselves ready and headed down to deck 3 and out into Flåm.

We head off and pass the Ægir Bryggeri Pub which I hope to visit later.

Ægir BryggeriPub

We walk into the centre of Flåm, where all the shops are.

Flåm (Norwegian pronunciation: [floːm]) is a village in the Flåmsdalen valley which is located at the inner end of the Aurlandsfjorden, a branch of Sognefjorden. The village is located in Aurland Municipality in Vestland county, Norway. In 2014 its inhabitants numbered 350.

We pop into several souvenir shops here.

The name Flåm is documented as early as 1340 as Flaam. It is derived from the plural dative form of the Old Norse word flá meaning "plain, flat piece of land", and it refers to the flood plains of the Flåm River. ("A plain between steep mountains" is the toponomy of the encyclopedia Store Norske Leksikon.)

We reached the Flam Railway. Many from our ship had a trip booked, we had not. I didn’t fancy being crammed into a small train full of people, Ive just spent days crammed full of people on a ship, I needed some space and quiet time. But we did visit the museum here.

The Flamsbana train takes you from Flam (situated at sea level) to the mountain station Myrdal (867 meters above sea level) and offers breathtaking views throughout the thrilling ride.

In the course of an hour, while your train is moving at 40km/h prepare to witness spectacular scenery including mountainsides, tiny, charming villages, foaming waterfalls, go through 20 tunnels and take pictures at many viewpoints. The hour will fly by!

What is more, 80% of your journey Flamsbana train will be running on a gradient of 5.5% proving Flam railway's title of being one of the steepest railways in the world. Many travelers believe that one return ticket for Flam railway is not enough to really appreciate the scenery.

The Flåm Railway Museum has no entrance fee. The museum offers a guided tour, in 9 different languages, with an audio guide from Voice of Norway. After downloading the app on your mobile, you can experience the tour with an audio guide in the museum.

With a pleasant narration, you will hear about the construction of the Flåm Railway and the history of Flåm. At your own pace, on your own mobile, you will get to know the authentic exhibition at the museum.

At your own pace, on your own mobile, you will get to know the authentic exhibition at the museum.

We visit the Flåm Railway Museum and discover the exciting stories behind the construction of the Flåm Railway, Europe’s second steepest railway. Listen to the audiovisual guided tour, which tells you about the hardworking people who built this masterpiece of a railway. As well as the many technical challenges during construction.

Almost next door to the museum is the Flåm Sweatershop, and outside we take photos with a giant Norwegian Troll.

Flåm Sweatershop is a delightful haven for tourists seeking authentic Norwegian craftsmanship. Located in the scenic village of Flåm, this charming clothing store specializes in high-quality sweaters and knitwear that embody the essence of Norway's rich textile traditions. As you step inside, you'll be greeted by the warm ambiance that reflects the cozy Norwegian lifestyle and the friendly staff eager to assist you in finding the perfect piece. The shop features an impressive array of sweaters, cardigans, and accessories, showcasing intricate designs inspired by nature and Norwegian folklore. Each item is crafted with care, ensuring that visitors not only take home a stylish souvenir but also a piece of cultural heritage.

A troll is a being in Nordic folklore, including Norse mythology. In Old Norse sources, beings described as trolls dwell in isolated areas of rocks, mountains, or caves, live together in small family units, and are rarely helpful to human beings.

In later Scandinavian folklore, trolls became beings in their own right, where they live far from human habitation, are not Christianized, and are considered dangerous to human beings. Depending on the source, their appearance varies greatly; trolls may be ugly and slow-witted, or look and behave exactly like human beings, with no particularly grotesque characteristic about them.

In Scandinavian folklore, trolls are sometimes associated with particular landmWe stop for a break on a picnic bench with views back to Iona, she looks beautiful sitting here in the fjord.arks (sometimes said to have been formed by a troll having been exposed to sunlight). Trolls are depicted in a variety of media in modern popular culture.

We stop for a break on a picnic bench with views back to Iona, she looks beautiful sitting here in the fjord.

We walk on and see the Flamsbana train sitting at the station, waiting to take the tourists on their journey. Flåm is heaving with tourists and on top of the cruise visitors many more coaches are arriving.
We decide its time to leave the hustle and bustle and start our walk to visit the Brekkenfossen waterfall.

We cross a bridge over the river Flåmselvi and walk along Nedre Brekkevegen and a campsite beside it.

The views are just jawdropping gorgeous. 

Further up were a herd of cows that we had to stop and say Hi to.

The village of Flåm has since the late 19th century been a tourist destination. It currently receives almost 450,000 visitors a year. Most ride the 20-kilometre (12 mi) Flåm Line between Flåm and Myrdal, one of the steepest railway tracks at 1 in 18 (not counting rack railways) in the world. There are also a few spirals. A former rail station building in Flåm now houses a museum dedicated to the Flåm railway.

Getting a photo of one, I leant forward and not noticing a wire, I get a big shock from the electric fence, Mel and George heard the surge as I touched it!

There are complaints of overtourism and suggested curbs on it.

Air pollution in Flåm and Geiranger during the cruise season is similar to that of a big city. Cruise traffic in Norway, which is one of the largest exporters of oil in the world, emits more NOx than all road traffic in Norway combined.

In 2009, Jens Riisnæs (an author and NRK journalist) said "We have the world's most beautiful nation, we don't need to follow the cruise operators' premises. They can go other places with their polluting ships. It is unwanted noise."

In 2009, Dagens Næringsliv said that a report by Vestlandsforskning says that both "Flåm and Geiranger are nearing a limit in capacity. It might be an alternative and rather stand forth as a «relaxed», exclusive and somewhat less of a mass tourism, cruise destination."

In a 2014 Dagens Næringsliv article, a farmer said that "Previously the smell of summer was that of grass that had been cut. Now the smell is of heavy oil".] Furthermore, "They [a retired couple] talk about fish that has disappeared from the fjord. In Norway, cruise ships are permitted to dump overboard their greywater in the postcard-narrow fjord-arms. Furthermore, the news article says that defecation in public by tourists, is already a problem; the village's train station has the only public toilets, and 200,000 tourists are expected in the summer season.

In 2014, tourism professor Arvid Viken said that "it is about time this [type of] tourism is evaluated somewhat more soberly than how it has been done in many municipalities for some years". Furthermore, this tourism "has low profit per tourist, but is often associated with considerable costs for" the municipal administrations.

As we walked on further we can see the waterfall in the distance.

Flåm was the birthplace of the poet Per Sivle. I know, I’ve never heard of him either!

We have now found the footpath after about 1.5km of walking and we start climbing up.

Its okay at first but then gets steeper and turns to huge steps. Its tough going, glad we bought plenty of water each.

This hike is a total of 5 km in length (return from Flåm centre). Total climb in elevation about 155 m.

Mel looks like she wants to give up, its tough and very hot. But the many people coming down give encouragement and says it is well worth the climb, so we continue upwards.

After quite a walk we stop at a mini waterfall in the shade and I dip my cap in the cool water to cool myself off.


We continue on, we were so close at that stop as we are now here at the waterfall viewpoint.

Brekkefossen is a powerful waterfall in the south-middle of Norway at Flåm, municipality Aurland, in the region Sogn og Fjordane. Most people will see this waterfall along the Flåmbanen by train. 

The views back down to Flåm and Iona sitting in the fjord was just amazing!

Brekkefossen. A powerful waterfall with an overall height of 100 metres, probably higher (800 metres) if you count in the rest of the river. Brekkefossen is fed by the rivers Ljosdøla/Brekkeelvi which has its origin at the Viddalsfjelett and Skratlandevatnet (lake) at an altitude of 1418 metres.



Brekkefossen was thundering and amazing from the small plateau on which numerous other hikers were resting and taking in the views. Gazing outwards and along the valley it was possible to trace the route we’d walked all the way back to Flåm and to see our cruise ship docked at the village port. Snow-topped mountains, fjords, a waterfall, wooden buildings nestled, wow!


The cooling spray from the waterfall was very welcoming. 












 



We walked back the way we came and were soon back in Flåm. We walked up to the edge of the Fjord and to Flåm beach. Mel and George took a rest, while I took a dip in the Fjord. 


It was cold, even by my standards. I wasn’t in for too long, but long enough to enjoy the scenery and take some photos!




We walk back and decide to to have a drink in the Viking hut themed pub, the Ægir microbrewery bar.

The wooden interior with its design reminiscent of stave churches or Viking halls , the chairs were amazing. Now how do I smuggle them out and aboard the Iona?



The beer was superb too with a range to suit all tastes.



I had aLærdøl Sour Cherry Rye(A crisp and tart thirst quencher),Mel had a Aegir Raspberry Pale Ale,(a pale, red and refreshingly tangy ale. The bitterness is well balanced against the redberry flavours from locally sourced raspberries taken from the foot of the Norwegian Fjord mountainside. Slightly tropical hop notes) and George opted for a cider.

Norway is pricey though and those 3 drinks came to £31!


We walked back onboard Iona and went straight for lunch, we were starving!

We set sail later that evening and on towards Haugseund our stop tomorrow.

We watched another strange show in the grand atrium before dinner later that night in the Opal Restaurant.

Goodbye Flåm,you were amazing!



Sunday, 6 July 2025

Cruise down Sognefjord to Flåm, Norway 1st July 2025

On Tuesday the 1st July 2025 I woke up early to see the sail in down to the Fjord to Olden,Norway. On waking I could feel the ship rolling and the tv on the wall was swinging back and forth on its bracket. I opened an app to see where we were, and I sadly saw that Iona had got near to the mouth of the Fjord and then had circled around and was heading back to way we came. I was starting to fear the worst and hoped that we would try again. After a long time we did turn around and head back to the Fjord, after a long time, we again had to abandon the attempt to enter the Fjord. I was and still am gutted. This was the one port I really wanted to visit and had an excursion booked to the Glacier.


I went back to sleep. Eventually it was time to go up for breakfast, we went up to deck 17 and the weather was still bad and wet. As we were having breakfast the Captain made an announcement, saying they had tried twice to enter the Fjord but it was unsafe to due to 70mph winds. We were now heading towards tomorrows port of Flåm where they expect the weather to improve and we can sail down the Fjord there today. At least a little good news.

Whilst still at sea, my son George had always wanted to have a go at black Jack and said he was good at it on some computer game or another. Needless to say as always the casino wins.

We continued out at sea, cruising towards Flåm.  I really hope its not another complete day at sea again.

Quite a bit later we were approaching the entrance to the Fjord and it was pleasant to see land again.


We sailed past little houses dotted about on little islands connected by road bridges and on our right the Fjordkysten Regional og Geopark.



Sognefjorden coastal park is the first park in Norway who will become both a regional park and a geopark. The geology in the park is outstanding and the park is aiming to achieve the Unesco global geopark status. If you want to meet authentic Norwegian coastal culture this is the place to go!


They bring together both non-profit and commercial interest and be a collaborative platform that, through long-term collaboration between locals, local businesses, schools, organizations and municipalities, manages the region’s natural and cultural heritage in a sustainable way.

The park is located in the westernmost area in Norway, where the Sognefjord, Åfjord, Dalsfjord, Stongfjord and Førdefjord meets the rugged North Sea.



We are now sailing down Sognefjord.


The Sognefjord, also known as "The King of the Fjords," is the longest and deepest fjord in Norway, stretching over 205 kilometres inland. It's located in Vestland county in Western Norway and is renowned for its stunning natural beauty and dramatic scenery, including towering mountains, glaciers, and charming fjord-side villages.

Located in Vestland county in Western Norway, it stretches 205 kilometres (127 mi) inland from the ocean to the small village of Skjolden in the municipality of Luster.

The fjord gives its name to the surrounding district of Sogn. The name is related to Norwegian word súg- "to suck", presumably from the surge or suction of the tidal currents at the mouth of the fjord.


The fjord runs through many municipalities: Solund, Gulen, Hyllestad, Høyanger, Vik, Sogndal, Lærdal, Aurland, Årdal, and Luster. The fjord reaches a maximum depth of 1,308 metres (4,291 ft) below sea level, and the greatest depths are found in the central parts of the fjord near Høyanger. Sognefjord is more than 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) deep for about 100 kilometres (60 mi) of its length,
from Rutledal to Hermansverk. Near its mouth, the bottom rises abruptly to a sill about 100 metres (330 ft) below sea level. The seabed in Sognefjord is covered by some 200-metre-thick (660 ft) sediments such that the bedrock is some 1,500 metres (4,900 ft) below sea level. The fjord is up to six kilometres (3+1⁄2 mi) wide. The average width of the main branch of the Sognefjord is less than five kilometres (3 mi). The depth increases gradually from Årdal to a central basin reaching more than 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) in depth located between Leikanger and Brekke. From Brekke the floor rises rapidly to Losna island, then drops gradually with a threshold at about 150 metres (500 ft) in the Solund area. Thresholds occur in an area with sounds, valleys, and low land where the glacier was allowed spread out and lose its erosive effect.

View to Lavik
Lavik, a charming village nestled in the breathtaking fjords of Sognefjord! Situated in the westernmost part of this stunning region, Lavik offers visitors a true escape into nature's untouched beauty in the mountain.

This small village who stretch alongside the western part of the Sognefjord. Overlooking the Sognefjord with easy access to the fjord and mountains. 

The perfect hub for exploring the outermost part and the western part of the Sognefjord area. 

As you arrive in Lavik, prepare to be greeted by the awe-inspiring view of parts of the Sognefjord.

The tranquil waters mirror the towering mountains on each side, creating a picturesque ambiance that will leave you captivated.

Lavik is a typical fjord village, with a history stretching back to before the Viking age. Its easy access to the fjord and mountains made it an ideal settlement location.

Today, Lavik is a bustling ferry port and cross point on the coastal road between Bergen and Ålesund, with frequent bus transport and an express boat connecting to Bergen.

One of the ferryboats that traverses this fjord is the MV Ampere, the world's first battery-electric car ferry, which crosses the fjord between the towns of Lavik and Ytre Oppedal.


Cliffs surrounding the fjord rise almost sheer from the water to heights of 1,000 metres (3,300 ft) and more. Around the outer area the land rises to about 500 metres (1,600 ft) above the sea, while in the inner areas of the fjord, they reach about 1,600 metres (5,200 ft). The inner part has extensive tributary fjords such as Aurlandsfjorden, while the outer part is connected by narrow sounds to neighbouring fjords. Near the coast the fjord mouth is bounded largely by low islands and skerries that are part of the strandflat.

The inner end of the Sognefjord is southeast of a mountain range rising to about 2,000 metres (6,600 ft) above sea level and covered by the Jostedalsbreen, continental Europe's largest glacier. Thus the climate of the inner end of Sognefjorden and its branches are not as wet as on the outer coastline. Hurrungane range at the eastern end of the fjord reaches 2,400 metres (7,900 ft). The greatest elevation from seabed to summit is at Sogndal. Several rivers pour fresh water into the fjord with an annual "spring" flood in June. The mouth of the fjord is surrounded by many islands including Sula, Losna, and Hiserøyna. The Sognefjord cuts through a northwestern gneiss area with a south-west to north-east structure, and penetrates the Caledonian fold through in the inner part. There is no clear relation between the east–west direction of the main fjord and the fold patterns of the bedrock, while some of tributary fjords in the parts corresponds to fold pattern.

The volume of the whole Sognefjorden including its various branches is about 500 cubic kilometres (120 cu mi), while the total volume of rock eroded by glaciers from the entire Sognefjord system and adjacent valleys is about 4,000 cubic kilometres (960 cu mi).

The valley of Sognefjord is one of various valleys of western Norway that certainly predates the Quaternary glaciations. It existed already as part of the ancient Paleic surface but had at the time much gentler slopes. The fjords of western Norway formed in connection to the east-ward tilting of much of Norway during the Cenozoic uplift of the Scandinavian Mountains. This uplift, that occurred long before the Quaternary glaciations, enabled rivers to incise deeply the Paleic relief. An estimate of 7610 km3 of rock has been eroded from the Sognefjord drainage basin since the Paleic surface formed. The fluvial and glacial erosion that made the fjords has followed structural weaknesses in the crust.

During the last glaciation the ice reached a maximum thickness of nearly 3000 meters in the Sognefjord area. Confluence of tributary fjords led excavation of the deepest fjord basin. Until about 30 km from the very coast the Sognefjord glacier was apparently constricted to its narrow channel of homogeneous gneiss, then the glacier suddenly spread out presumably through sounds and low valleys.

Waterfalls dramatically crash down from the cliffs to the fjord.

We leave the ship to sail on down the fjord, and go for dinner. Mel and George earlier went for a game of bingo onboard.



We eventually leave the Sognefjord and enter Aurlandsfjord.

Aurlandsfjord is a fjord in Vestland county, Norway. The fjord flows through the municipalities of Aurland, Vik, and Lærdal. The 29-kilometre (18 mi) long fjord is a branch off of the main Sognefjorden, Norway's longest fjord. The fjord is deep and narrow, reaching a depth of about 962 metres (3,156 ft) below sea level, and its width is generally less than 2 kilometres (1.2 mi) wide. About 11 kilometers (6.8 mi) south of the mouth of the fjord, the Nærøyfjord branches off from it to the west. The village of Flåm sits at the innermost part of the Aurlandsfjord; other villages along the fjord are Aurlandsvangen and Undredal. Most of the fjord is surrounded by up to 1,800-metre (5,900 ft) tall, steep mountains with little habitation along the fjord except for in a few small valleys.


Tremors of the 2011 Tōhoku earthquake and tsunami arrived 12 minutes later in Aurlandsfjord, causing 1.5 meter waves for a few hours

Large parts of the fjord are included in the Nærøyfjord section of the West Norwegian Fjords UNESCO World Heritage Site.



Aurlandsfjord, one of Norway’s most idyllic fjords. It’s often referred to as the “Grand Canyon” of Norway, and it’s not a sight you want to miss. With the awe-inspiring beauty it has to offer, one can easily see why this is one of the most visited and photographed fjords in the area.



Iona eventually reaches Flam, but we aren’t allowed to go ashore until tomorrow morning, Im happy to at least seen these fjords!




View of the Aurlandsfjord as we sail into Flåm from the Infinity pool. 

That night we went and saw a comedian down in the 710 club onboard and on the way back to our cabin we got to see Flam lit up by night.

Really looking forward to going ashore tomorrow!